Farmall 100, 1954 - 1973
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I put together the right final today. Got new seals in there. After I got it back together, I put it on the floor to get ready to put in the main drive shaft and brake drum. It made a "clunk" sound when it was lowered to the floor. Upon inspection it seems like the hub is able to move in and out about 1/16". Now with the shims in place and the nut tight this should not be happening.
Here's what I think.........The big bearing on the hub (#25 in manual) must not be seated up tight in it's hole. The only thing I can see that might cause this is that bearing #22 is bottomed out on the shaft even though it has the thick shim behind it. I may have to put 1 more thin shim back there to pull the shaft another 1/16". OR should I take the thick shim out and put the thin one in there instead?
I have to keep in mind that the big bearing #25 on the hub end should be tight on the shaft. Does the bearing retainer put pressure on, and hold this bearing tight in it's hole? Maybe the new gasket is too thick?
I'm not sure now, there is no other way to hold that bearing in it's hole other than the retainer. The shaft and the inner bearing are definately moving together.
The is the side with the seed drive and all the parts are in just as the manual shows.
Anybody that can shed any light on this would be appreciated. I just know if I put it back on the tractor like this, there will be some clunking and side to side action felt. I checked the left side and it seems nice and tight.
Just Do It !
My Super A is basically the same. Since you say it's the side with the seed plate drive it's the left ("short") side which always seems way more worn than the right.
Did you replace the seals only, or did you replace the bushing and bearings also?
Often the axle shaft "wobbles" in the bore of the bearings due to wear. Some people take a pin punch and put a bunch of "divots" all around the shaft where the bearings ride so that when the bearing goes on, it is tight. Some people knurl the shaft at a machine shop. I had mine spray welded and turned down to spec since the areas where the seals rode were grooved out bad and wouldn't hold. Worst case scenario is when the bearing can also wiggle in the housing itself. Again, the punch trick will work, but if the wear is that bad, you are better off taking it to a machine shop and either bored out to accept a bigger OD bearing, or welded up and bored back to spec. My Super A had the "punch" treatment, and it didn't hold. Next step is to skin up some new paint and take the housing to a machine shop!
I would suggest measuring everything carefully to see if you can isolate where the wear is.
Seems to me from looking at things that I will have to make a shim of about 1/16" to fit between the bearing retainer and the outside axle bearing to take up the slack. It will a bit of a challenge to cut one to fit but I have a few ideas to make it work. I will also give it the "punch" treatment.
Just Do It !
It could be. However, right now the bearings, etc. are loose enough in mine that it will "walk" the inside oil seal nearly all the way out. It was worn enough that adding shims/punching the housing didn't hold. Maybe yours isn't that bad but your symptoms sound an awful lot like mine. I would take it apart and measure everything very closely.
When it's all back together and you have it on the tractor, if the tire/wheel don't rock, and it doesn't leak oil, you will know you have it.
It is my understanding that once the spacer and shims are in, and the retainer is tightened down, the bearings should not be able to move on the shaft at all. To me it looks like I have just a little play between the retainer and the outer bearing and causes the whole shaft to move 1/16". Are you talking about the shaft that goes into the tranny?
Just Do It !
I am talking about the axle shaft in the final drive housing which the fertilizer drive sprocket attaches on one end, and the rear wheel attaches on the other. Before you took it apart, could you grasp the top of the left rear tire, and rock it side to side? If it rocks then you have significant wear. The left side final drives on these tractors are the ones that take most of the abuse. (If I am looking at a A/Super A/100/130/140, I usually check this before I ever listen to it run.) It sounds like yours is not too bad but you might not be able to know for sure till it's all back together.
With lots of hours, the axle shaft can indeed wear to the point it turns inside the bearings, and/or the bearing can move in the final drive housing itself. This is when you get out the centerpunch and start "pricking" the axle shaft/housing. AS is the case with my tractor, this repair is not always permanent. Now I am looking at either replacing the housing, or machine shop work.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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