oil pan remove

[Bigdog]

Your leak is probably more from the rear main seal than from the pan. Neither is terribly hard to correct. The pan is easy, remove the lower bell housing cover and remove the pan bolts and pull the pan down. Make sure the sealing lip of the pan is flat and not distorted from over-tightening of the bolts.
Welcome to the forum. If you post your question as a new post it will get more answers.

[RaymondDurban]

This past Saturday "Deadfoot" leaked a gallon of oil will mowing for 5 hours. Is there a manual that illustrate the steps to take to remove the pan and replace the gasket so that I can try to slow the leak I see at the rear of the pan? Deadfoot is also leaking oil from the clutch access hole. The property is rolling hills and somewhat rough, making for a bouncy ride at times.

FYI ...Deadfoot gots its name from the numerous flats it received trying to run over heavily spiked thorns. A Bottle of Slime in each tire (tube) has done the trick!

Welcome to the Forum!!
If I am reading your post correctly, it sounds like the oil you see is from a leaking rear main seal. This is not to say that the pan gasket isn't leaking as well. Can you take a photo and post it? Pulling the pan and replacing the gasket is pretty straight forward. The three bolts at the rear are a little tough to get to without a swivel. If you split the tractor to replace the seal, those three bolts will be a snap since they screw into the rear main seal retainer. Spliting the tractor is no hard job either. Some cribbing, wedges on the front axle and a jack or overhead hoist make it all the easier. Search the forum (top right hand corner) for tractor splitting.
Post back if you have questions.

**Bigdog got me again!!!

[Bill Hudson]

jrsarge,

First of all, welcome to the forum! Enjoy the ride.

Now for the oil leak. It sounds like you need to replace the rear engine seal. Not a hard job at all, althought it may look intimidating, it is not. KubKraft, one of our site sponsors, makes a replacement that is "10 feet tall and bulletproof." Check the link at the bottom of this page.

Instructions, in the form of a service manual, are on the 'manuals' link at the top of this page.

Hope this helps, if not, ask more questions.

Bill

[jyarbrough]

Hey folks-Jim Yarbrough here-
I'll soon tackle this same job on my 52 cub--my question is this:
I seem to have read on a HOW-TO posting that running your tractor for 10 minutes with kerosene in the crankcase helps remove the rest of the sludge--drain, then fill with your clean oil--

Is this sound advice?

Jim

[Bigdog]

Jim - absolutely not! Kerosene is OK for flushing a transmission etc. but will not lubricate a running engine well enough to prevent damage.

[ellen]

Well, I had no trouble getting them back in, but I'm not a girl.

Ohhhh you're in trouble now....

[oronc]

Well, I had no trouble getting them back in, but I'm not a girl.

Ohhhh you're in trouble now....

Go get em girl, Let me know when the tickets go on sale.

[Gary Boutwell]

I was trying to beat the Bigdog. .

I quit trying to beat him, now am just trying to keep up!

[Jethrow]

Mario,

I ended up using a piece of clear plastic tubing that fit the head of the bolts for the 3 in the back. More flexible than wobble sockets and enough grip to get them started.

Jethrow

[rlubben@centurytel.net]

Any idea on the going rate to crack my Cub and put in a new main seal, and a rear seal? Wisconsin. Not talent, and not that wealthy, BUT I HATE leaks!