Farmall H, HV & Super H, 1939-1954
Moderator: Team Cub
I know exactly what you are describing. I've been there myself, and believe me, an offset wrench probably won't make that much difference. I know this because I have worked as a mechanic, both cars and farm tractors, and I own just about every configuration of wrench there is. You have got to get that crankshaft lifted up and rotated. You may need to get a pry bar under it somehow because the crank does fit rather snugly down into the journals. Just the motor oil alone can create enough of a suction to make you think the crank will not come out.
The crank has to come out BEFORE you can remove the camshaft gear BECAUSE that gear needs to be rotated so that the holes in that gear will line up with the heads of the bolts that hold the camshaft retainer plate to the block, and so long as the cam gear is engaged with the crank gear, and the crank will not turn because of the stuck pistons, you cannot rotate that cam gear.
[quoteThe crank has to come out BEFORE you can remove the camshaft gear BECAUSE that gear needs to be rotated so that the holes in that gear will line up with the heads of the bolts that hold the camshaft retainer plate to the block, and so long as the cam gear is engaged with the crank gear, and the crank will not turn because of the stuck pistons, you cannot rotate that cam gear.][/quote]
Saw that this weekend - got to get the crankshaft out first. Friend of mine came over to look at the problem and he thought that I need to unstick the pistons first. Suggested putting all the caps back on to anchor the crankshaft, then rotate the engine with the bores topside. Then fill the bores with penetrant and let it sit. Also suggested running a hone in the bores to remove the rust that was visible. Then later, try to knock the pistons loose.
So, that's what I did. I tried earlier to lift the crankshaft to rotate it, but couldn't get it up or moving. I may be missing something here, this is my first attempt at an engine disassembly. Would a picture help to clarify things?
The crankshaft needs to be lifted up out of the the 3 cradles in the block that it is setting in. The crank cannot be lifted very high because it is still attached to those two stuck pistons. Lift the crank as high as possible, and then allow it to rotate so that the two connecting rods pass UNDER the crank, and then just allow the crank to drop back into those same 3 cradles that it came out of. In effect, the crank has now been rotated 180 degrees and those two connecting rods are now in a position where you can easily access the rod bolts.
if you can rotate the crank to get at the rod caps, thats a good approach. or you need to drive those pistons out - down and up but be careful of the connecting rods if you are reusing them. the pistons and cylinder sleeves are junk, so dont worry too much about them.
i use a 4x4 with the corners cut to fit the top of the piston. i'm assuming that your engine stopped with the pistons in mid range and thats good because hitting the pistons will not be trying to drive the rod into the top of the crank journal. whack each piston a few times and see if you get some movement. keep making sure that the crank can rock that minute amount so you are not stressing out the rods. when one comes loose, remove it out the top, again mind the connecting rod/ crank journals.
they will come out, i've had some real rusted ones and been successful.
the sleeves are pulled from the bottom upward. i use a sleeve puller with a proper sized disc.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
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