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PPG Paint
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1573
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 11:01 pm
- Zip Code: 36310
- Tractors Owned: 1975 IH cub,1948 farmall cub,1979 international 3200 skid steer and a 1974 John deere 350B dozer.
- Location: Abbeville Alabama
Re: PPG Paint
PPG 71310 is what I have used for many years but it is getting way out of hand in pricing. PPG makes a OMNIE that is more of a industrial paint . it is about 100 bucks or so a gallon. it paints as good as the expensive stuff and hold up well. Use hardener and it will work great. The case IH paint is made by velspar. it does go on nice but it has about a 2 to 3 year life span on the tractor. It will start to fade. Always when doing a repaint over fresh paint you have to wait atleast 30 days or you may get a orange peel. especially when useing different manufaturers paints. with PPG you only have to wait 3 to 4 days to repaint with PPG.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
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- 10+ Years
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- Location: VA, Leesburg
Re: PPG Paint - 71310 or 71969?
In looking at this thread, I see that there was two mentions of 71969 which is described as 'Ford' red, and at least one Cub owner has his tractor done in that color. With 71310 being the correct IH color, I was wondering if others had used the 71969 Ford color on their Cub or other IH tractors and why - a more rich/deeper red ?
1950 Cub - Daisy, 1959 Cub - Peggy Sue
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- 10+ Years
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Re: PPG Paint - 71310 or 71969?
smack wrote:In looking at this thread, I see that there was two mentions of 71969 which is described as 'Ford' red, and at least one Cub owner has his tractor done in that color. With 71310 being the correct IH color, I was wondering if others had used the 71969 Ford color on their Cub or other IH tractors and why - a more rich/deeper red ?
70019 is the PPG crossover color code for pre 1949 IH #50 red. However, it is not available in the PPG "concept" paint line.
71310 IH red and 71969 Ford red are available in the "concept" paint line.
Both are close to, but not the same as, 70019. Personal preference.
- Rudi
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Re: PPG Paint
All of this info is currently and has been available in the Farmall Paint Chart on the Manual Server. I do watch for new paint codes from different lines etc... and was hoping that there was a new one in here somewhere.. but it appears not too likely.
I am wondering if the Concept colours are viable as choices on the chart 71969 is not listed, but then it is a Ford colour so not sure if it is close enough.
Comments anyone
I am wondering if the Concept colours are viable as choices on the chart 71969 is not listed, but then it is a Ford colour so not sure if it is close enough.
Comments anyone
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:47 pm
- Location: VA, Leesburg
Re: PPG Paint - 71310 or 71969?
PA Cub wrote:smack wrote:In looking at this thread, I see that there was two mentions of 71969 which is described as 'Ford' red, and at least one Cub owner has his tractor done in that color. With 71310 being the correct IH color, I was wondering if others had used the 71969 Ford color on their Cub or other IH tractors and why - a more rich/deeper red ?
70019 is the PPG crossover color code for pre 1949 IH #50 red. However, it is not available in the PPG "concept" paint line.
71310 IH red and 71969 Ford red are available in the "concept" paint line.
Both are close to, but not the same as, 70019. Personal preference.
This is consistent with what I was told by my PPG dealer. I did a few test panels today of of IH red and Ford red (from the restoration series Valspar spray cans sold by TSC, and the Ford red is almost 'orange' compared to the IH red. I confirmed this with my restored 8N too. I can't see myself painting my restored Cub a Ford orange...makes no sense to me. Thanks for your info.
1950 Cub - Daisy, 1959 Cub - Peggy Sue
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- 10+ Years
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Re: PPG Paint
Any color is available in any paint. It is just a bunch of tint. Personally I use Spies Hecker, or Diamont by BASF. They are a polyester base with a Urethane clear. To be original you have to use a straight alkyd enamel which no one is their right mind would use now. You can use an enamel with a harder, or better a single stage Urethane. If you use a single stage urethane and want to clear it you can with certain brands, because the clear is exactly the same with no tint. However if you do that you can not wait. You can only wait the recommended wait time in between coats. Just read the directions and pretend it is another coat of color. you wait longer the paint will 100% peel off. You will have to scuff shoot a piss coat of red then clear.
Given all of that, if you want to clear it, it is silly to use a single stage base. It will not hold up as good, because there will be too many mills of paint. Why not just use a base coat, then clear it? It will look better, and last longer.
The less paint on the substrate the more durable period. The thicker the paint, the more paint to fail, and the more likely is chips, If you decide to base coat it, which I would, look at the base coat as a die or stain. If you were staining wood, then clearing it, you wouldn't put tons of stain. You would get it covered then clear. Same with base coat. I based my entire tractor and a mower with less than a quart. It took two coats. When you clear it, I would use two coats of clear on the engine and three on the hood and fenders, and maybe floor. Just in case you get dirt in the sheet metal you can wet sand it and buff it out. You will never see a little dirt on the other parts because of the casting.
I mixed the proper formula for the IH yellow and white and neither were correct. The white was too white and the yellow needed more red. I kept a couple of original painted items, cleaned and buffed them then matched the color. If you painter is any good at all, just give him a sample and he will mix the base and match it. He does it every day, cars are never the right color, there are always variants. If you can't you can have the paint distributor match it. There is a good chance they have a color eye that works great on non-metalic colors.
-Todd
Given all of that, if you want to clear it, it is silly to use a single stage base. It will not hold up as good, because there will be too many mills of paint. Why not just use a base coat, then clear it? It will look better, and last longer.
The less paint on the substrate the more durable period. The thicker the paint, the more paint to fail, and the more likely is chips, If you decide to base coat it, which I would, look at the base coat as a die or stain. If you were staining wood, then clearing it, you wouldn't put tons of stain. You would get it covered then clear. Same with base coat. I based my entire tractor and a mower with less than a quart. It took two coats. When you clear it, I would use two coats of clear on the engine and three on the hood and fenders, and maybe floor. Just in case you get dirt in the sheet metal you can wet sand it and buff it out. You will never see a little dirt on the other parts because of the casting.
I mixed the proper formula for the IH yellow and white and neither were correct. The white was too white and the yellow needed more red. I kept a couple of original painted items, cleaned and buffed them then matched the color. If you painter is any good at all, just give him a sample and he will mix the base and match it. He does it every day, cars are never the right color, there are always variants. If you can't you can have the paint distributor match it. There is a good chance they have a color eye that works great on non-metalic colors.
-Todd
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- 10+ Years
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Re: PPG Paint
BTW PPG is good paint. It just so happens I am allergic to it. It makes me break out in a rash and my thought swell up. Sikkens, Glassurite, Diamont, Spies Hecker, Dupont, PPG, all are good. I would stay away from off brands. Even Sherwin Williams is junk. A good paint job with good paint will literally last you 50 years. Just as important as the paint is the primer. I would use a good acid etching primer over bare metal. Just a piss coat. Then use a 2 part primer on the sheet metal, sand with 320. If the sheet metal is REALLY rough you can use a spray polyester. It is AWESOME!! You can build it up 1/4 thick! If you had a lot of rust pitting after sand blasting, or use a lot of body filler, you can use 3 or 4 coats of Spray Polly then sand with 220 on a file board, then prime and re-block with 320. It will be straight as an arrow!! Just make sure you do not cover the factory spot welds if you want it to be original. After that they will use a sealer, which will keep all the sanding scratches and crap underneath (hopefully) Because it is soo easy to miss spots on these tractors, ask the painter to use a tinted sealer. He can tint it exactly the color of the base. The other cool thing is, if it chips you can not see the chip very well.
1. Acid based primer ( I like Spies "red can" primer) do not sand
2. Two part primer, on sheet metal. Sand with 320.
3. Tinted 2 part sealer.
4. Base to cover
6. Clear.
7. wet sand and buff if necessary
1. Acid based primer ( I like Spies "red can" primer) do not sand
2. Two part primer, on sheet metal. Sand with 320.
3. Tinted 2 part sealer.
4. Base to cover
6. Clear.
7. wet sand and buff if necessary
- Buzzard Wing
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Re: PPG Paint
I got PPG 'Duron' (?? If I recall) for Rufus' white stuff.... painter did a great job.
I agree with GITractorman; I would only use Valspar (TSC) on my garbage cans (if nothing else was available and I had time to kill) and the CaseIH paint is good stuff (both rattle can and quarts). Compared with auto paint it's a fraction of the cost and I was shocked at how well it turned out with a brush. I was just looking for a quick paint job to make the mower look presentable:
Of course, that won't help you much if you are going for a 'historical' match.... but I bet nobody would know the difference or would say it's wrong if it was the 'correct' color.
I agree with GITractorman; I would only use Valspar (TSC) on my garbage cans (if nothing else was available and I had time to kill) and the CaseIH paint is good stuff (both rattle can and quarts). Compared with auto paint it's a fraction of the cost and I was shocked at how well it turned out with a brush. I was just looking for a quick paint job to make the mower look presentable:
Of course, that won't help you much if you are going for a 'historical' match.... but I bet nobody would know the difference or would say it's wrong if it was the 'correct' color.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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Re: PPG Paint
when i did mine over i used a single stage urethane and it has a wet look gloss without buffing. i wouldnt use clear on a tractor because in my opinion and its only my opinion, its overkill. the next one i paint one i'm going to try some of the tractor paint you people are talking about.
- Buzzard Wing
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Re: PPG Paint
PB, I would be real interested in what you think of the IronGuard.... I respect your opinion (and you do have a new 'test' case).
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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1967 cub - Circle of Safety: Y
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- Rudi
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 28706
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
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- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger - Circle of Safety: Y
- Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
- Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
- Contact:
Re: PPG Paint
Rob:
I use both the CaseIH Iron Gard as well as the Dupont Centari and Nason paints. I like all three almost equally. The Iron Gard is not only compatible with Dupont Centari, from what I have been told, it is made by Dupont and may very well be Centari or at least very close - but I have no empirical data on that, just what I was told by my paint supply house. When I got the rattle cans done they used the Centari line of products. CaseIH does not make their own paint.. it is a sub-contract as most brands are so I guess it makes sense.
I like the Nason and have used it for my original snow plow project. Gord though had purchased the Iron Gard for the Cub-54 blade project and I started using that. I am as much impressed with the Iron Gard as I am with the Nason. They are both easy to use and they flow nicely. My blade has already gone through two full seasons and it still looks as good as it did when I painted it. I used the Centari Reducer and Catalyst with the CaseIH Iron Gard and it turned out really nice.
When I finally do paint my Cubs it will be with the CaseIH. I haven't decided if I will eliminate the catalyst or not.. that will be determined by my healt/budget at that point.
I haven't found any site for Iron Gard so far. The best info I have gotten came from my C-Max now NAPA Automotive Paint Supply House.
I use both the CaseIH Iron Gard as well as the Dupont Centari and Nason paints. I like all three almost equally. The Iron Gard is not only compatible with Dupont Centari, from what I have been told, it is made by Dupont and may very well be Centari or at least very close - but I have no empirical data on that, just what I was told by my paint supply house. When I got the rattle cans done they used the Centari line of products. CaseIH does not make their own paint.. it is a sub-contract as most brands are so I guess it makes sense.
I like the Nason and have used it for my original snow plow project. Gord though had purchased the Iron Gard for the Cub-54 blade project and I started using that. I am as much impressed with the Iron Gard as I am with the Nason. They are both easy to use and they flow nicely. My blade has already gone through two full seasons and it still looks as good as it did when I painted it. I used the Centari Reducer and Catalyst with the CaseIH Iron Gard and it turned out really nice.
When I finally do paint my Cubs it will be with the CaseIH. I haven't decided if I will eliminate the catalyst or not.. that will be determined by my healt/budget at that point.
I haven't found any site for Iron Gard so far. The best info I have gotten came from my C-Max now NAPA Automotive Paint Supply House.
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
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Re: PPG Paint
panelbeater wrote:when i did mine over i used a single stage urethane and it has a wet look gloss without buffing. i wouldnt use clear on a tractor because in my opinion and its only my opinion, its overkill. the next one i paint one i'm going to try some of the tractor paint you people are talking about.
Be prepared for it to fade. It looks very nice when it is fresh and for what it is, 80 year old paint chemistry, it is a good quality paint.
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1950 cub demonstrator
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- Location: NH, Kingston
- Contact:
Re: PPG Paint
so then its a synthetic enamel? i would like it to be an acrylic enamel with a hardner.
- bob in CT
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Re: PPG Paint
panelbeater wrote:so then its a synthetic enamel? i would like it to be an acrylic enamel with a hardner.
it is an alkyd resin (synthetic) paint.
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