Replacing an Oilpan Gasket

C

CPIII

501 Club
Is there any trick to removing the two corner bolts of the oilpan that are inside the front part of the torque tube? I was able to remove the middle one with a universal socket but I can't get a good grip on the two corner bolts. I am hoping to put off splitting the tractor for now as I don't have the right equipment yet.
 
I just ran into the same problem myself. My 3/8 drive would not fit, but the 1/4 inch with universal joint got all three back bolts out.
 
Gee wiz that was quick! :P I thought I was shutdown for the rest of the day and that there would be no way that I would get this done today. I don't know why I didn't think of that but thanks a bunch guys for the quick response! Well back under the cub i go...... :-:-):
 
CPIII":1crmq1u0 said:
Gee wiz that was quick! :P I thought I was shutdown for the rest of the day and that there would be no way that I would get this done today. I don't know why I didn't think of that but thanks a bunch guys for the quick response! Well back under the cub i go...... :-:-):
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If you don't get a answer to a question within a hour than you need to ask the question in a different way because no one understood the question. Pictures help a lot of times.
 
An easy way to get them back in is to cut the head of the bolt so a screwdriver can be used to get the started.
 
Another Idea for putting it back in is If your universal joint is to floppy to raise up into position with out flopping over and the bolt falling out of the socket. Try taking a piece of heat shrink used for electrical wire and slide it over the universal joint, heat it a little like you would for a wire. Now the universal joint is stiff enough to hold the bolt up with out falling over and flexible enough to still act as a universal joint. Just my opinion, not an expert. Scot
 
scotlem":z6f95abs said:
Try taking a piece of heat shrink used for electrical wire and slide it over the universal joint, heat it a little like you would for a wire.
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I ran across a coil spring that I could push over my 1/4 universal. It was a piece of spring left over from something, using what I have. Works reasonably well.
 
Well ...I am done ....the amount of sludge that was in the Captain's oil pan was unbelievable! It was a good 3/4 inch thick all across the botom of the pan and the oil pickup screen was completey clogged. But now it is clean as a whistle and ready for new oil. Getting the three back bolts back in wasn't bad at all...I just started the two corner ones with my fingers and the middle one with the 1/4" universal socket. Now I need to go back trough the posts and find out how to prime the oil pump. While I was at it I went ahead and checked the valve lash so the captain will be ready to start when I get my magneto from Rick Spivey......Can't wait! :{_}:

Thanks for all the help!!
 
I dropped my pan today also today for the first time. When I saw those 3 bolts I said a few choise words. They came out fine but it took lots of trys with Ujoints. comination,etc. Being on my back outside with the block cold as the night didn't help matters. Well it came off ok. Now to put it back on with my big fingers and the cold there were more words passed. With all the bolts in a pile in a rag I noticed one was newer and about 1/4" longer than the others. so it was now a roll of the dice to figure where that longer one belonged. Well wouldn't you know it was one of those corner bolts that is hard to get at was stripped out. That was why it had a longer bolt. At this point I was close to getting my fingers warmed up so I saved my choise words and switched the 2 bolts. All was well-added oil-started it up and no leaks. This is a hobby for me and the point is to relax and have fun!!
 
I was abit luckier in that the temperature today in Magnolia Texas is 70F ...a very beautiful day!!! Glad it all came out ok and that you didn't get frostbit fingers...
 
Jim Becker":3156750o said:
scotlem":3156750o said:
Try taking a piece of heat shrink used for electrical wire and slide it over the universal joint, heat it a little like you would for a wire.
Click to expand...
I ran across a coil spring that I could push over my 1/4 universal. It was a piece of spring left over from something, using what I have. Works reasonably well.
Click to expand...
That sounds good too Jim, Before I started using heat shrink I used a small rubber band twisted and stretched around the joint 2 or 3 times. the only problem with the rubber bands is that oils would eventually weaken it, and it would break. The heat shrink, like the spring you use is semi permanent. Scot
 
Glad I came across this one, cause dropping the pan is on my list for spring. Anyone put any thread sealer/locker on the bolt when they put them back? Also anyone know how much torque should be applied when re-tightening?
 
Thread seal is not necessary. The bolts should only be about one turn more than hand tight. Watch the cork gasket and if it starts to bulge out it's too tight.
 
I've used heat shrink on the universal joint in the past and it works well. My "quick & dirty" trick is to put a couple wraps of electrical tape on it. I've seen universal joints with a factory installed spring on them, usually for impact tools, I'll give Jim's trick a try, next time I encounter the need.
 
A word of caution should be noted:

"Do not over-torque the three rear bolts......These three bolts attach into the rear seal housing which is made of aluminum and can be stripped out very easily."

Those who fail to learn from mistakes are doom to repeat them.

Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry before applying the cork gasket and no sealant is required.

NJ Farmer
 
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