Putting my Cub 154 back togeher

[bookman51]

Well, I started putting my Cub 154 clutch and drive shaft back together today. If you hear big "shucks, darn, gee whiz and $%#" tomorrow from the midwest part of the country, you know something went wrong. I have manuals (service and parts) and labeled almost everything. However, it did not come apart as the manuals said, so I doubt it will go together as the manuals said (and there is always something I do out of sequence too).

Wish me luck

Bookman

[outdoors4evr]

Good Luck! Hope all goes well.

[bookman51]

Well, now that I know, I did not have to take the drive shaft loose and loosen the engine mounts to replaced the brake buttons on the clutch. But I did so now it is putting back together. I thought I kept the clutch in the right direction but must not so I had to take the shaft out again. Getting the four little bolts in the piece that holds the drive shaft to the engine flywheel was a pain. I still do not have the pin driven into the shaft. That is a project for tomorrow morning. The PTO shaft on the front does not look right. It should mount on a holder with bearings in it but it is not going back far enough. Do not see how it will go back further. One line of instructions in the manual can mean a couple of hours of work. Nevertheless, I am making progress.

[BigBill]

My third int154 is going to need a new clutch/pressure plate installed that i have already purchased. The manual says to move the engine forward. I guess I need to remove or loosen the radiator brackets so the engine will move forward so the spline will move out of the clutch setup. I want to do this before winter if i can find the time.

[bookman51]

Bigbill, I am getting to be more informed the hard way, but no you do not have have remove or loosen the radiator mounts. You need to just loosen the four motor mount bolts. The rear right side one (if seated on the tractor seat) is not too bad. The front right is a pain; the front left is pain. But both are doable. The rear left is real difficult because hard to get a wrench on the bolt head. I am pretty sure it is a 3/4. There is plate below it that probably could be removed but I did not remove it; and I am not sure it makes a difference. There are directions in the service manual. the engine just needs to move forward maybe half an inch tops. I kept thinking I might break the casting, but I tapped a heavy duty screw driver in until I could get a pry bar in. That was enough to move the drive shaft forward until the clutch part came up from the rear after the clutch bolts were removed from the rear flywheel. In the rear the drive shaft just sets in to rear flywheel. Now to move the drive shaft up, I think I had to remove the pin from the drive shaft that connects it to the front fly wheel, and I had to remove the four bolts from the piece that is connected to the flywheel. I may also had to loosen the pto belts. Anyway I pretty followed the service manual recommendations for the serial number for my Cub 154. Getting the pin out was a pain and getting a new one back in was a pain. Some people recommend replacing the pto belts while you have it apart. I can see why because replacing the belts means loosening the motor mounts and taking the drive shaft out just like when replacing the clutch. I did not replace mine and hope I do not regret it.

Good luck.

My project tomorrow is to get the pto belts adjusted right and the clutch tolerance adjusted right and check for any loose bolts...and maybe start putting sheet metal back on.

Bookman

[BigBill]

I guess the radiator hoses will give some in moving the engine forward i guess. I forgot about replacing the Pto belts at this time too. I need to order them soon. I think at the sametime i'll change out the brake pucks on the rear flywheel brake too.

[bookman51]

BigBill, To get the brake puck retainer, I ended up taking the seat, the fenders, and sheet metal under the seat off. I could not get a wrench on the bolts the brake puck retainer otherwise. And when I got to it, it was broken, so I had to hunt up another one. Since I had everything off (including the wheels) I am doing some paint too.

Bookman

[BigBill]

I have my first 154 apart right now to repair the PTO. Since i'm waiting for parts that are on order i have the front half painted already. The back half is next. The new electric pressure washer is earning its keep.

On my third 154 they had a disc brake pad installed inplace of the brake pucks. Its not a bad idea, i wonder if i can epoxy brake material to the puck plate? I have some thicker brake material.

[DanBuckman]

"On my third 154 they had a disc brake pad installed inplace of the brake pucks. Its not a bad idea"

Sounds like it wold be an improvement.
How well does it work?

[bookman51]

Put the brake puck on yesterday and adjusted the clutch. Interesting in that the brake pucks do not touch the flywheel at the same time. Probably a good .05 differences. I suppose they will wear until they both do. Don't know if the retainer is bent or something.

Started putting sheeting metal on. Probably be a few more days before I am ready to start it and see if how it goes. I am doing painting of it as I go.

Bookman

[Rudi]

hmmm, you do know that we are all visually addicted... right

[bookman51]

Sure, I have some pictures. I sent in a request for approval for album, I will send some as soon as I am approved. In the meantime, if anyone wants any pictures, my e-mail is ebony51@frontiernet.net

[bookman51]

I took off the front wheels to paint the rims. In the bearing assembly on each side there is a small ring that is loose and just hanging on the knuckle assembly. Is that just a dust protector or something like that? Does not seem to want to snap back into the bearing assembly. Bearings seems okay. Can I just leave those rings off or do I need to figure out how to attach them back to the bearing assembly? Frankly, probably been hanging there as long as I have had the tractor.

For chuckles and grins I checked the price at Case-IH for the bearing assembly. Something $30 each. At parts tree it is $17.51 but then $10.95 for UPS.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=cub_ ... 0118300005

Cub Cadet 941-3002 (replaces IH-404836-R91)
BEARING ASSY, WHEEL BALL Your price: $17.51

Don't think I need them anyway.


Thanks in advance.

Bookman

[Rudi]

your account was activated..

Could that be a thrust washer

[bookman51]

Been busy working on the tractor. Heading to the eye doctor shortly for an eye exam. Probably have my pupils dilated so probably have to stay inside most of the day. I will get the pictures up then.

What is a thrust washer and is it needed?

Thanks

Bookman