IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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I am getting a lot of rattling coming from the clutch area or the front of the transmission. Clutch seems to work fine and adjustment is good. When the clutch is engaged and the transmission is in neutral seems to be when it is the loudest. I removed the PTO belts to verify where the noise seems to be coming from so I know it's not the PTO set up this time. Throwout bearing and clutch seem kind of loose on shaft spines but I don't see any movement when engine is running. Tractor shifts and drives just fine and has no aparant transmission problems. I am a pretty decent car guy but have never worked on tractors and am looking for some help and guidance. Thanks-Phil.
Check the driven disc, should be no movement. Also check the clutch brake linkage.
The clutch brake seems to work perhaps a little slow. I did notice that the disc seems a bit loose on the shaft splines. I have not pulled the clutch shaft yet but plan too. End play adjustment seems about right and the clutch is not slipping at all under load. It seems the loudest when in neutral
I did some more investigating and it appears the clutch assembly is loose on the transmission input shaft as it rocks back and forth some. I had read that the hole for the pin will sometimes obb out. Am not sure if there is a bushing involved there also or if I might have a front transmission bearing that is loose. Looks like it will have to come apart for a look.
The splines on the driveshaft are probably worn. Replace the clutch plate and the driveshaft. There is a guy on e-bay that machines new driveshafts for the 154. Make sure you get the right length. Dealers also carry the longer length driveshafts. For my 184 (different design) I had to purchase the long driveshaft from the dealer and have it shortened and machined to fit.
You should also check the U-Joint to see how sloppy it is as well. Replacing this with a NAPA part was inexpensive and easy.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH Model 15 Tiller
I have finally got back to working on the cub and I have it down to the point where the book says I need to move the motor forward to get the drive shaft out. I am wondering if there is a way to do it without moving it forward. Does not look like it to me but I though i would ask. Thanks-Phil.
I just replaced my clutch and couldn't find any other way other than dis-assembling the rear of the tractor and pulling the transmission. I just ended up unbolting the engine and sliding it forward. these clutches are a pain!!
If you have a one piece driveshaft, loosen the front flex mount and slide it rearwards, you may need to clean the paint off the shaft for a few inches to get it to slide. Then the shaft towards the flywheel into the depression in the flywheel, it should slide forward enough to come out of the clutch splines, backwards again to drop it out of the flywheel, then slide out under the tractor. You will need to remove the mounts for the throwout bearing. Takes 1/2 hour out and 1/2 hour to put back together if the flex mount is not stuck. No need to remove any sheet metal or move the engine.
If you have a two piece drive shaft then you need to slide the engine although I have not had to do that since all of my numbered series cubs have the one piece shaft.
I have removed the drive shaft and there is some wear on the splines but not as much as I expected. Looks like the disc could stand to be changed as it is worn but not down to the rivets yet. It looks like there is a lot of play with the rear flywheel and transmission input shaft. The hole for the pin does not looked obbed out like some I have seen but it appears a bit loose on the input shaft and there seems to be a lot of side to side play in the main input bearing. There does not appear to be a lot of end play. It looks like the only way to get the retaining pin out is from the bottom of the tractor. Is there an easier access point? How much play should there be in the input shaft front bearing? Thanks-Phil.
Anybody have any good ideas how to remove the roll pin holding the clutch flywheel to the transmission. I can't get it to move at all with a drift pin punch. Tried drilling it and it's next to impossible to drill. I sprayed it wit penetrating oil but am wondering if I am going to have to put some heat too it. a lot of grease down there don't think that would be a good plan.
The roll pin, flywheel, or transmission shaft (or some combination of the three) may have worn a 'step' that the roll pin is hung up on. Try putting the trans in gear, locking the brakes, and blocking the rear wheels - then try to rotate the flywheel in one direction. Try to punch out the roll pin. If it doesn't come out - try rotating the flywheel in the opposite direction and try the punch again.
Just a thought - hope it helps, NJDale
Depending on what year the int154 is you may have or may not have the depression in the flywheel. The later models had the double vee pulley for the pto on the flywheel were the earlier int154's had the double vee belt pulley on the pto shaft with a flatter flywheel. (no recess).
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
Ok had a chance to get back to working on the cub. I got the drive shaft out and the clutch assy removed. The clutch flywheel is loose on the transmission input shaft. The transmission input bearing is fine seems pretty tight but the flywheel is awfully floppy on the input shaft. How much play should there be there? It looks like trans input shaft is .866 and that the hub that goes over it started out as .875. Am not sure there is a way to fix that other then install a bushing and hone it to size to fit the input shaft or possibly shim it some how. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks-Phil.
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