On Building Tractor Shops

Got a project that you are working on that is not a tractor? Maybe a barn to hold your tractors or just fun stuff like woodworking, glass, tools, sheds, gardens, custom implements, etc., this is the place to talk about it.

Moderator: Team Cub

On Building Tractor Shops

Postby Super A » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:40 pm

Not to go into too much detail, my wife and I hope to build a house soon.

Along with it, I want a real, concrete floored, maybe with a woodstove, place to work on my relics out of the rain, shop. A good friend/colleague and I were talking today, he's a licensed electrician and has done masonry/construction most of his life before he started teaching. We got on the subject of shops and I asked him what was the "best" in terms of cost.

He's a big fan of cinderblock construction. I have always leaned towards pole barns, mostly from all of those beautiful Morton Buildings ads in Successful Farming magazine I have looked at since I was a kid....he said by the time I bought the metal for the siding, I could spend about the same amount for cinderblocks.

So I know this has been hashed and re-hashed in some way or another, but what's the "best?" Pole barn, masonry, or what? I want this to be my "forever" shop, and want it to last. I know it won't be big enough, etc. etc. etc. BTW I'm thinking about something like a 30x50 or 30x60, with part of it being bona-fide shop and the rest storage/machinery parking. I want at least a 12' high door, for "real" farm equipment as well as antiques, 14' if I can afford it. What kind of cost/square foot to build, etc?

One thing I am thinking on is pouring the floor only for the actual "shop," (about 30x30)and having a wall separating the rest from the "shop" and then gravel for the rest of the floor as a way to cut costs. Thoughts?

I'm in eastern NC, so a good woodstove will probably work for heat. More worried about hurricanes/wind than snow and such.

This is a bit rambling I know, but I'd like to get some thoughts and Ideas. The #1 consideration is cost, but the building must be durable. The whole thing may be a pipe dream but if we build a home as we plan, this may be my only chance....

Have at it,
Al
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates

Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
User avatar
Super A
10+ Years
10+ Years
 
Posts: 3433
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2004 10:53 am
Location: NC, Jacksonville area
Zip Code: 28521
Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub "The Paperweight"
Cub powered IH 52R combine
Grandfather's 1948 Super A
White demo Super A-"Ol Whitey"
1950 Super A "Old Ugly"
1954 Super A-1
856
Buncha other junk
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby Barnyard » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:59 pm

Two things jump out at me.

Super A wrote:More worried about hurricanes/wind than snow and such...The #1 consideration is cost, but the building must be durable.

In this case, go with block. After a hurricane plays the big bad wolf and huffs and puffs, you'll more than likely still have a shop instead of a slab of concrete.
It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something.
- Franklin D. Roosevelt -

Barnyard Bash CubFest May 30th - May 31st, 2014
Click here for info http://www.barnyardbash.com
http://www.Savethecub.com
User avatar
Barnyard
Team Cub
Team Cub
 
Posts: 17861
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:39 pm
Location: OH, New Haven (Hamilton County)
Zip Code: 45030
Tractors Owned: At This Time
40 Farmall Cubs (Round Hood)
2 Farmall Cub (Square Hood)
2 IH Cubs (Square Hood)
5 Lo-Boys (Round Hood)
2 Lo-Boys (Square Hood)
2 Farmall 404's
1 Farmall H
1 Ferguson 20
1 Cub Cadet 125
1 Kubota B-7100
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby Rudi » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:43 pm

I am no expert though but here are a couple thoughts.

If you go to concrete/cinder block walls which is a pretty standard material for commercial buildings, you will have to have some kind of concrete footing with a frost wall if you are affected by frost. Either way, a simple concrete slab even if reinforced with re-bar is not sufficient to support a block wall. So that will add significantly to the cost. Pretty sturdy buildings though.

Pole barns come in a number of different flavours from what I understand. A pole barn to my mind and for what seems normal costruction here is that we build our pole barns with telephone poles that are planted 4-5 feet in the ground. New Home For My Cubs. I am pretty sure that something similar to what I built probably would withstand a hurricane, as it has withstood 3 years of blizzards so far and a blizzard is essentially a winter hurricane. Many of our local farmers harvest logs off of their property, peel em, let em dry for a season or two and then have an auger truck or an excavator plant em. Many use 1x6 or 1x8 strapping and then sheath with various claddings and do not frame walls such as mine which reduces the cost and these are typically uninsulated buildings. I intend to put a solid wood floor in my pole barn as i can no longer tolerate concrete floors with my knee problems.

Image

Used telephone poles are around $40.00 each. Mine cost nada.

I used a lot of recycled material in this project. Also, this year I have most of the pole barn insulated. Reclaimed insulation - fiberglass batts that were essentially new - a relatively new strip mall being taken down for a street alignment project.. but there is still no heat in the pole barn. Yesterday it was -20C with a wind chill of -30C yet in the pole barn with just plywood doors it was very warm. No not shirt sleeve warm, but almost warm enough to work without gloves. Amazing.

So far I have less than $1,000.00 give or take invested in my pole barn project over almost 4 years. Very affordable.

Might be an option of some type.
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship

User avatar
Rudi
Team Cub
Team Cub
 
Posts: 28467
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
Zip Code: E1A7J3
eBay ID: ve9rhs
Skype Name: R.H. "Rudi" Saueracker, SSM
Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1951 Cub "Jethro"
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y
Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby Bill Hudson » Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:48 am

Al,

I won't go into cinderblock vs. pole construction, sorta like which oil is best. However, when considering ceiling/eve height, additional height, above a determined minimum, is cheap. At that point, all other costs are fixed. So the additional cost is only for the materials and labor to extend the sidewalls another "X" number of feet.

For what it's worth, my Cub House has 10' ceiling and is 24'x30'. Concrete floor, 6" insulation in walls, 12" in the ceiling, drywalled, gas heat. Sure is nice to work in when it is snowy, blustery, and frigid outside.

Bill
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
Bill Hudson
Team Cub
Team Cub
 
Posts: 6386
Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:50 am
Location: OH, Madison
Zip Code: 44057
Tractors Owned: :
57 F-Cub
64 Lo-Boy
68 Lo-Boy
52 F-Cub
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:24 am

We have a lot more problems with frost heave in this area than in your area so we tend to go with pole barn or frame construction, due to the fact that people can do that themselves. In our area to prevent cracking of cinder or concrete block walls it is necessary to use mesh between each layer of blocks, and that is a pain. As to material type, that is up to you and the contractor, as a personal determination.

be sure to put a vapor barrier under the concrete to prevent sweating during rapid temperature changes. Also, put in some insulation, that also prevents sweating, and even thin insulation such as the Solar wrap they use under the metal on pole barns makes a big difference in temperature. I know it is more expensive, but in the storage part I would suggest the concrete floor with vapor barrier, Solar wrap under metal, etc. it will drastically reduce moisture and rust of unused equipment, plus making it much easier to move equipment around or mount it on a tractor. With that much height you have plenty of room to extend your roof and put a lean to on each side with a gravel floor as a place to park your trailer, truck, and as the shop gets fuller, temporary parking for tractors etc. while you need the room to move others around and work on them. If you decide to park a trailer and or truck under there, I suggest 14 feet wide, not 12. words of experience. 12 will work, but it is a closer fit than you think. I made my doors 10 x 10, which for my equipment, truck and camper, etc. is plenty of height, but if I back a wide trailer in, there is only about 4 or 5 inches of clearance on each side of the wheels due to the jamb.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
User avatar
John *.?-!.* cub owner
Team Cub Guide
Team Cub Guide
 
Posts: 19451
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
Location: Mo, Potosi
Zip Code: 63664
Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby Virginia Mike » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:31 am

I'd go with a steel quanset arch on a concrete slab. Work benches down the side with florecent lights over them.

And build it twice the size you think you need!
Best,
Mike
Tractors are made to work!
"A Cub will do as much as a team of horses,.. More in hot weather!" - C. W. Spradlin 1909-1994
User avatar
Virginia Mike
5+ Years
5+ Years
 
Posts: 1300
Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 7:21 pm
Location: Stewartsville, Virginia
Zip Code: 24095
Tractors Owned: '49 Cub
'49 JD "B"
'79 JD 2040
'50 DB "Garden Tractor"
'52 DB "Super Power"
'56 DB "Big 5"
'62 DB "Super 600"
'37 McCormick Deering "LA" engine

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby daddydip » Tue Feb 15, 2011 2:37 pm

I've seen some very attractive pole buildings, Cowboy's actually comes to mind. Especially when it comes to storage. Depending on your terrain, if you have any rolling hillsides or maybe an area with a sharp difference in elevation, then i'd have to go with the cinder block. We are pretty big on bank barns around this way which gives you access to the upstairs area of your building. This is the way I built and with a 16' ceiling I was able to build a loft over three quartes of the upstairs area. This makes for a lot of storage area.
One Life , One Love , A Love Supreme

1955 michael e. pugh el

The only thing new is untold history, Harry Truman
User avatar
daddydip
5+ Years
5+ Years
 
Posts: 1802
Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:57 am
Location: Pa. southeast
Zip Code: 19320
eBay ID: 2001fltri
Tractors Owned: CC108

1948 farmall f cub
1955 farmall f cub
1955 international lo boy

1952 vai case

2005 236B Caterpillar

1999 TDI Jetta MK IV I like!
2008 H.D FLTRI

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby danovercash » Tue Feb 15, 2011 4:06 pm

Dirt or gravel floor almost the same as being outside, BTDT. Concreted back in'93, all the difference in the world. Might work IF you have NO moisture comming under the wals or doors.,IMHO.
"It is impossible for a man to learn what he thinks he already knows." -Epictetus

252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone but not forgotten!)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dansfarmallcub/
danovercash
10+ Years
10+ Years
 
Posts: 2889
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2003 8:48 pm
Location: NC, Kannapolis
Zip Code: 28081
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby Don McCombs » Tue Feb 15, 2011 4:18 pm

I agree with the others. A moisture barrier and full concrete floor is the only way to go. Don't forget some floor drains.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
User avatar
Don McCombs
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
 
Posts: 10538
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby redfin » Tue Feb 15, 2011 7:40 pm

A concrete slab with a heavy poly vapor barrier below for moisture control is the way to go.

As a side not. After visiting many wind storm damaged areas , this tye of building will stand when all other types have been badly damaged. Same goes for portable the carports with a similar design and anchored properly .
Image
redfin
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
 
Posts: 4047
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:25 pm
Location: LA, Gonzales
Zip Code: 70737
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby beaconlight » Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:29 pm

No matter how you do it if you have the storms as you described tie the roof into the sides with steel ties. If you do block put rebar into some of the hollows in the block and fill those holes with mortar. Tie the roof to the rebar areas. Block needs the weight of the roof to hold it up in severe wind. Roof needs to be well tied in to do it's job.
Bill

"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne

" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop
User avatar
beaconlight
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
 
Posts: 7701
Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 2:31 pm
Location: NY Staten Island & Franklin
Zip Code: 10314

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby danovercash » Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:48 am

Even after concrete, I have had water come in under the footing (shallow). Last time after a toad strangling rain (Aug., 08) and having banked up dirt all around the back and sides of building. Make sure that all ground water and roof runoff flow away from building. Good idea to have floor slightly higher than soil outside.
"It is impossible for a man to learn what he thinks he already knows." -Epictetus

252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone but not forgotten!)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dansfarmallcub/
danovercash
10+ Years
10+ Years
 
Posts: 2889
Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2003 8:48 pm
Location: NC, Kannapolis
Zip Code: 28081
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby cowboy » Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:40 am

Thanks DaddyDip

Hi Al

I don't know anything about block buildings. But I have learned a few things in general. Keep the building at least 12" above the surrounding ground. So in the spring when the snow is melting water runs away from it and it will not get in even in heavy rains. If you have clay soils this is even more important. If you dig a hole in clay and fill it with sand it becomes a bathtub and holds water. All doors on gable ends :!: It will keep rain from running off on you when you go in and out and may save your live in winter by not having snow avalanche off of it and crushing you. It also keeps ice from building up when it get warm in winter by not having it drip infront of the door. Door on both ends so you can drive through and in summer open them up for a nice breeze.

Get wide doors it makes it a lot easier to get in out and get things positioned. I have a 14' wide door in the front and 18' wide in the back. If I am working on tractor in the doorway for better light I can still get smaller tractor and fourwheelers in and out. I mounted my sliding door on the inside so if it snows I can open it with out having to shovel away from the barn.

Go with at least a 10' side wall. I prefer a 12' Its a lot cheaper to put on a lean to for more room than build another building. And if its taller you can put a bigger lean to on and still have a 8' ceiling height. On my roof trusses they put 2x6's sticking up between the header and nailed the trusses to them. It gives them a lot more support and strength.

Even though I used a gravel floor I still put a vapor barrier under it.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=52657

Here's the pole barn I had put up last year

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=50042

Billy
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.

"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”
User avatar
cowboy
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
 
Posts: 3414
Joined: Sat May 15, 2004 11:10 am
Location: MI, Britton
Zip Code: 49229

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby Super A » Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:22 pm

Cowboy, Who'd you buy your building from?

Another forum member sent me this link:
http://www.armourmetals.com/pole-barns.html

I must say I like this setup, especially the steel trusses. Are they as good as I think they are? Am I wrong in thinking they'll be stronger than wood?

I did some sketching on what I want. Maybe I need to see if I can get on "Extreme Makeover!" 8)

Thanks everyone for the advice. Keep it coming. This may all be a pipe dream but if we are able to build our new house (If the state of North Carolina doesn't lay me off first :( ) I might as well go "all in."

Al

PS Cowboy, I appreciate the warning but in our climate, I doubt I'll be crushed to death under an avalanche from the roof if I do a door on the sidewall....of course after this winter, you never know....... :lol: :lol: Sorry, I couldn't resist!!
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates

Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
User avatar
Super A
10+ Years
10+ Years
 
Posts: 3433
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2004 10:53 am
Location: NC, Jacksonville area
Zip Code: 28521
Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub "The Paperweight"
Cub powered IH 52R combine
Grandfather's 1948 Super A
White demo Super A-"Ol Whitey"
1950 Super A "Old Ugly"
1954 Super A-1
856
Buncha other junk
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: On Building Tractor Shops

Postby cowboy » Sat Feb 19, 2011 8:52 am

Al

We got it from a builder that just does pole barns. But he took what we wanted and went to Carter Lumber and they drew it up with all the materials. Of course he does so much business with them he gets a huge discount. Our barn was $34000 built.

That armor building looks nice. I don't think that it would be stronger or weaker as they are all designed to handle a specific load depending on the code for snow load in the area. Although I am sure you can tell them you want it to handle more weight. The only thing I can think of is that it would be hard to put a ceiling in it later. We had our trusses put on 2' centers so we can just nail OSB to the joists and blow in insulation if we want.

You know the weather has been crazy the last few years :D

Just looking at the DSCF and it looks like Mr E has steel truss building ya could ask how he likes it.

Billy
Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you. 1964 cub. Farmall 100 and 130.

"Those that say it can’t be done should not interrupt the ones who are doing it.”
User avatar
cowboy
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
 
Posts: 3414
Joined: Sat May 15, 2004 11:10 am
Location: MI, Britton
Zip Code: 49229

Next

Return to Projects Forum

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests