Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

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Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby Popeye » Tue Mar 29, 2011 8:37 am

I am hoping to hook some type of 3 point hitch to my newly aquired Cub cadet 169 to hook up a Plow & Tiller , not very familiar with the hitch type/ hook up at all, and can't find much info on line about it. Sure would Like to see some close up Pics or a video if possible. I must admit, I'm kinda puzzled by the set up. Here is a Pic of my `169 & what the rear Hitch on My 169 looks like. If anyone can shed some light on this Puzzle for me I'd Greatly appreciate it. thanks, DanO'
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Re: Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby JimT » Tue Mar 29, 2011 10:54 am

Take a look through some of these manuals. This may help you get an idea what type of hitch is used on these tractors.

http://www.cubcadetcollectors.com/manuals/main.php
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Re: Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby gitractorman » Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:28 am

Your question is a bit loaded, I'm sure not intentionally.

Are you planning to use a Cub Cadet tiller that was intended for the 169, or are you going to use a sleeve hitch type tiller with a separate motor on it, like the ones from Agri-Fab and Brinly-Hardy? Below are pics of a tow behind type tiller from Agri Fab.
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The Cub Cadet tractors did not have a "standard" 3-point hitch like is on larger tractors, where the arms lift the implements. The standard hitch for a Cub Cadet is either the drawbar (which you have) or a Sleeve Hitch. On a Cub Cadet sleeve hitch, the rear rockshaft (top link) is the part that lifts the implement, and the implement pivots on the bottom attachment points.

Here is a photo of my Cub Cadet 124 and the rear sleeve hitch:
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And here is another photo (pre restoration) showing the sleeve hitch with a Brinly adaptor installed. This adaptor lets you use Agri Fab and Brinly Hardy implements like plows, cultivators, tillers, disk, etc.

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To use a Cub Cadet tiller, you need the sleeve hitch rear rockshaft (top link) and an adaptor angle drive which transfers the PTO power by way of a long drive belt from the front PTO pulley (same as your mower PTO pulley), runs all the way under the belly of the tractor, to the rear angle drive for the tiller. From there a short belt runs from the angle drive up to the drive pulley on the tiller. Below is a picture of my 149, setup for the tiller. When mounting the tiller, you must remove the triangle standard drawbar part.

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And below is a picture of a Cub Cadet Tiller. Sorry, I do not have any pictures of it mounted, but you should be able to get the idea.

Image

Now, there are a couple of folks that are making really nice Category 0, 3-point hitch setups for 149/169 Cub Cadet tractors, which will allow you to use standard Cat-0, 3-point equipment. However, they are pricey, around $500 for the hitch kit, and you still cannot run a tiller because the Cub Cadet tractors do not have a 540 RPM rear PTO as in a larger tractor. http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%2 ... List.htm#3 Points

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So, as you can see, you need to decide a little more on what you plan to do.

Let us know if you have any other questions.
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Re: Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby Rudi » Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:53 am

Bill:

You got me drooling and kicking my butt all at the same time. 2 years ago I had a chance to pick up a Cub Cadet Roto-Tiller for a little over $200.00 but I was kinda cheap and lost it to someone else for a measly $25.00. I had wanted it for Ellie, but then realized that it would fit nicely on my 129.

Thanks for the pics, I appreciate. I now have a better idea of how this all goes together.
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Re: Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby Popeye » Wed Mar 30, 2011 5:34 pm

Thanks for all the Info and Pics Bill....The Only 3 point hitch i ever owned & used was a Sears Suburban and so, as you know, they are very different and that's why looking at the Cub was a bit of a Puzzle to me at first . These Pics are great....Now I get the whole idea straight in my head and can move foward. I haven't bought a Tiller yet, was actually waiting to see how i made out with the Hitch before I go shopping for a tiller. Didn't want to "Put The Cart Before the Horse".... thanks again Guys.
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Re: Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby dhermesc » Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:04 am

I would go with the Agri-Fab and Brinly-Hardy if you think you want a tow behind tiller. They are expensive but the people that I know use them are very happy with them. The IH cub mounted tillers work "OK" in garden soil thats already a bit loose, but I would never try to use one to till sod. Even "hard" garden soil can give them some trouble. I had one and decided that it was to much of a hassle to mount and use without that good of results. Maybe my tines were to worn to get good bite but it seemed like the tiller was constantly trying to push the 1450 around and when it would finally start to till like I thought it should the long drive belt would start to slip.

I've found that my Troy Bilt Horse with weights and ag tires does a better job. I actually came out money ahead on the deal as I sold the IH tiller for $400 and found the Horse for $250.
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Re: Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby gitractorman » Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:04 pm

Yea, I was not a huge fan of the one that I had. It worked OK, but it was a total rattle trap. The 149 tractor was a very solid machine, every piece had been apart and put back together for the re-build, so it was like new, but that tiller would beat it to pieces. For the money you will pay to find a good Cub Cadet tiller (if you can find a good one, there are TONS of junk ones out there) you could easily buy a newer Troy Bilt Horse tiller, and have an increadibly better piece of equipment. Plus, a walk behind tiller can get between rows, into flower beds, along the foundations of a house if needed, etc. The tractor mounted tillers are just big and clumsy. I doubt that I would ever own another Cub Cadet one, especially not for the money that you will have to pay for a good one.
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Re: Cub 169 Hitch Info Help

Postby SundaySailor » Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:17 am

gitractorman wrote:Yea, I was not a huge fan of the one that I had. It worked OK, but it was a total rattle trap. The 149 tractor was a very solid machine, every piece had been apart and put back together for the re-build, so it was like new, but that tiller would beat it to pieces. For the money you will pay to find a good Cub Cadet tiller (if you can find a good one, there are TONS of junk ones out there) you could easily buy a newer Troy Bilt Horse tiller, and have an increadibly better piece of equipment. Plus, a walk behind tiller can get between rows, into flower beds, along the foundations of a house if needed, etc. The tractor mounted tillers are just big and clumsy. I doubt that I would ever own another Cub Cadet one, especially not for the money that you will have to pay for a good one.



Hmmmmmm. I for one find this very interesting. I've not owned a tractor & tiller combination, but I do have the past experience of owing a for real Troybilt 7 Hp Tiller. I for one can still remember being shaken to pieces with that thing. That's one of the big reasons I decided to get my Farmall Cub up and running. I can plow and cultivate with it and ride too.

I've worked hard to get my Cub Cadet 1200 up and running. It now has the Brinly Plow, Brinly spring tine cultivator and the disc to work with. I also have an electric sleeve hitch to raise and lower the implements. Basically, I'm getting older and moving those heavier Cub implements are getting a bit much for me.

I'm glad to hear of the bad vibrations from the tilling. I'd suspect the same thing would happen from other manufacturers of tractor/tillers unless they were much heavier. We have heavy clay soil here, and it sure as heck bakes hard like bricks during the summer months without any rain.
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