Removing the clutch & drive shaft (108 wide frame)

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Removing the clutch & drive shaft (108 wide frame)

Postby BigBill » Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:21 am

I got lucky i figured out how to remove the clutch and drive shaft without pulling the engine on the wide frame cadet. I took off the center drive shaft cover and nocked the drive pins out of the rear coupling. Then i took out the gas tank and side covers to expose the clutch. I disassembled the clutch fork from the bracket and took out the bracket by wiggling it around till it came out of the frame. I disconnected the clutch lever rod and spring. Now the clutch and drive shaft can be removed. My throwout bearing is binding on the drive shaft. I'm thinking a disassembly along with a good cleaning/sanding plus a light cost of red primer them grease the shaft and assemble it. I'm just doing this on the fly with no manual or book. I was eyeing it when i tried it on the 86 8hp cadet i changed the drive plate just by pulling the shaft rearward to expose the drive plate. This was a 30 minute or less fix. We didn't remove the gas tank for the drive plate fix. I figured it could also be done on my 108 with the stiff clutch pedal and i had to remove the drive shaft and clutch to free it up.

My next job is to put a new throwout bearing in my 104 narrow frame thats no picnic to work on. Its just starting to squeel.

I want my little cadets ready to mow then i can get back to my larger cubs. With no interuptions i figure i can easily fix one tractor a week if i stay going a little everyday. Bill
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: Removing the clutch & drive shaft (108 wide frame)

Postby BigBill » Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:23 am

Well here we go. I'm going to explain my delima. My clutch/brake pedal was very hard to push down unless the engine was running. After taking it all apart i noticed the clutch spring was binding on the drive shaft because it was coiled even with the clutch pedal all the way up. Not having a new spring on hand and seeing the drive shaft a tad worn too. I filed and sanded the shaft smooth again and just turned around the sticky coiling spring. I moly greased the shaft and assembled it for now. It seems to be ok for now. I know down the road it will need a new shaft and clutch spring if it acts up again. But i fixed it for now. I'm just not sure what i'm going to do with this 108 with the creeper. I have extra 12hp and 14hp engines sitting here. I'm just not sure who in the herd is going to get more HP. Once i'm all caught up and the engine rebuilding starts i'd like to go thru them all at the sametime one after another. Its a good feeling just to fix one and use it. Bill

BTW; I also have a castiron briggs & stratton 16hp single cylinder horizontal engine too from a montgomerywards hydrostatic 16 tractor. I'm wondering if it will fit in a wide frame. I haven't measured the shaft height yet. I'm not sure if i want it for my log splitter or a cub cadet yet too. This motor is like new inside and a beast and heavy too.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
BigBill
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Re: Removing the clutch & drive shaft (108 wide frame)

Postby gitractorman » Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:37 am

Bill,
Not sure if the Briggs engine will fit, without looking closer at it. I know that on the Mont. Wards / Simplicity tractors, the crankshaft end of the engine was mounted forwards, just like on a Cub Cadet, with the drive shaft hooked to the flywheel side of the engine. That is a BEAST of an engine! I had one in a Simplicity 4416 tractor, and the tractor was a monster. Simplicity built the Montgomery Wards tractors.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
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Re: Removing the clutch & drive shaft (108 wide frame)

Postby BigBill » Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:54 pm

I have an extra 154 loboy tranny and 3 sets of final drives from the 154's too. I have some heavier than the cadet frame fabricated channel but not as heavy as real channel iron. The steel maybe 3/16" or close to a 1/4'' thick and about an 8'' high wall i'm thinking about a whole new longer frame for a cub cadet longer so i can add hydraulics with the oil tank and pump in the front. With the 16hp briggs it would be a beast. The 16hp briggs has the drive plate on the flywheel side and the pto pullies setup on the rear side just like the kohler engines. It looks doable with a little fabrication. My oldest son who has been helping me is alomost up to speed now. I had him finally changing tires on the tire changer i purchased.(hand operated) Just like the one in the gas station were i started as a kid. He is finding out that the tire lube can be your best friend with the old dried out tire beads. I got some valve stems, the very short ones for the tubless tires and some tire tools from www.patchboy.com there very affordable. I like the shortest valve stems on the cadet tires i think there 5/8" or 3/4'' long.

I have right now on my fix list;

1. My 1st int154 adjust and set the pto and install it, assemble the 3260 deck with the new bearings. I already pressed in the bearing races.
2. Work on my fcub, all the parts are here already.
3. Finally work on my 154 fel/backhoe. Again i have everything now but the bulkhead 1/2'' tubing fittings and the hydraulic hoses which will be very short now because i'm going with 1/2'' tubing. I'd like to get the rear subframe sub'd up and at least get the FEL running first.
4. My cadet 100 w/tiller needs pto work.
5. My cadet 104 needs a throwout brg.

I got two tractors up and running lastweek in the sun. if we get some sun maybe i can get more done if i feel up to it. I'm dying to get the FEL up and running. Bill
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
BigBill
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