Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:31 pm
I have finished sandblasting, priming, and painting my grader, and since I am mid-mounting it, I actually have quite a few unused parts. However, I do NOT have the "Sustitute Drawbar" that mounts between the forward final bolt holes. I do have an extra "regular" drawbar...can this be mounted with the bow forward, allowing the Pivot Axle Mounting Bracket to be attached? If not, does anyone have a substitute drawbar they are willing to part with? Or is anyone talented enough to make one?
Also, does anyone have information on the attachment hardware? Or detailed photos of the assembled mid-mounted grader? The manual that Rudi has generously provided, doesn't have specific info; it assumes certain parts are assembled units. Mine are NOT!!! Thanks, as always, for your help!
Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:16 pm
Dale on a Cub all you do is turn the drawbar around. The only time you would need a substitute bar would be if it had a fast hitch. I would venture that the same is true on the A and Super A also.
Mon Nov 14, 2011 6:41 pm
Dale, the substitute drawbar is needed to center mount the blade. PM me your email address and I'll email the manual to you.
Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:48 pm
The blade is completely assembled, but I am still looking for a SUBSTITUTE DRAWBAR. Anyone? Someone must have a spare in their goodie pile!!! Barnyard, Billy, Boss, Dale...??!!
Wed Nov 23, 2011 3:23 pm
Dale, post an ad on YTMag. It got me quick results on my platform carrier question.
Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:37 pm
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll do that.
Sun Nov 27, 2011 8:42 pm
Dale are you still looking for a drawbar for SA, I may have one that the mounting bracket has been welded to the drawbar, if that something your interested in let me know and I'll look and maybe get a picture for you. Mike
Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:47 am
Mike, I am looking for a "SUBSTITUTE DRAWBAR" for mounting my blade under the tractor. I already have two regular drawbars, but the holes are not in the right places. The Substitute drawbar is a "simple" flat bar that goes from one front hole on the final across to the other. It has short verticle arms for the attachment and has several holes along the bar for the blade arms. It is similar to this one, but larger for the SA. http://www.tm-tractor.com/gdr/subdrbar1_001.htm
I've never actually seen one, but someone must have one out there somewhere!
If this is what you have, I would be very interested. Thanks
Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:46 am
Dale, don't see why you could not make a substitute drawbar. I made one for my cub, but put "ears" on the bottom that were too long. turned that thing into a pretzel digging an axle deep pit to bury a burnt brush pile. Sorry, don't have a pix handy (not in computer). I used 1 x 2 flat bar to make mine. Later I built a F/H specific one. It uses the back cultivator holes. You could do the same if you have rear cultivator brackets for your tractor. This one is probably bulletproof as it would take out the finals before breaking.http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?pos=-8119http://photos.cubfest.com/displayimage.php?pos=-12472
Mon Nov 28, 2011 3:51 pm
No Dale cannot help on that, I'm thinking the same, if you dont find one looks like it wouldnt be to hard to make, good luck.
Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:24 am
Well, since I do have a spare set of drawbar brackets, I just sketched a plan for using them to mount a fabricated drawbar. A good project...hard to totally mess up a flat bar with 2 bends in it and a few holes! Besides, the shop owner said "NO PROBLEM" and is helping locate the stock! Couldn't get much better...practice and something to use! Thanks and will get photos up when done. MIGHT have to wait til I return from my dive trip.
P.S. Anyone else here a SCUBA diver? Planning several trips over the next 2 years?!!
Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:58 pm
Dale...I thought i remember a comment in the Cub forum [may have been George Willer] that said instead of bends, cut 3 pieces and weld them together...Sometimes hard to get bends in the exact location as far as the width is concerned.
Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:43 pm
If you know how much "gain" you get when making a 90 degree bend you can measure accurately and make two bends. Otherwise it is probably best to make it from 3 pieces and weld it. (Put your welding classes to work Dale!)
Dave - you are correct - It was George Willer's recommendation to fabricate it from 3 pieces with welded joints.
Tue Nov 29, 2011 4:40 pm
I think fabrication should be straightforward enough. Choose between bending or welding based on your equipment and relative skills. The big question is the dimensions of the original to determine how heavy it needs to be to keep from bending it. I haven't seen one in years, but I can say it is a LOT heavier than the corresponding Cub part.
Looks like the Parts Depot has a couple new ones. You can probably make several for what one of them will likely cost.
Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:36 pm
William and I went out in the cold and picked up what I need for the Substitute Drawbar, plus a better plate for my SA jackstand, plus a piece of pipe to make Dave's Hood Holder/Stand (thanks for the idea, Dave...and whoever gave it to you). So over the next few days, I certainly have something to keep me busy!
Winfield Dave wrote:Dale...I thought i remember a comment in the Cub forum [may have been George Willer] that said instead of bends, cut 3 pieces and weld them together...Sometimes hard to get bends in the exact location as far as the width is concerned.
We came to the same conclusion once I saw just how heavy that steel was...no way was I going to bend THAT stuff! And isn't that the point of a heavy drawbar anyway?? So we DID cut 3 pieces and will weld them. MUCH easier to figure out the needed lengths, too.
Let me know if you think this is a good plan to use the brackets, rather than bolting them directly to a single bolt hole each side. I figure spreading the force out would be easier on the finals, but I still have one cut to make on the crossbar and could leave it long enough without the brackets. (I tried to attach a couple photos, but cannot seem to log on to Photohost.)
I am using the same dimensions as the standard drawbar, 3/4" thick and about 2 1/4" wide, so I think it should be plenty strong.
Input is certainly welcome...and I will try again later to attach some photos.
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.