EDIT: Nellie's Firing Now!

[Eugene]

If this tractor originally had a mag which has been converted to a distributor.... When the switch is pulled to the on position now it's actually off. So the switch would need to be pushed in to start and pulled out to turn it off. Is this correct?

Nope. The switch for the magneto simply grounds out the magneto to the dash. There is not electricty supplied to the magneto kill switch from the battery. The magneto kill switch was replaced with one that requires electricty supplied from the battery.

[jfavor]

Ok, but if the switch wasn't replaced; when he pulls it out the circuit would be open. The tractor won't start. When he pushes it in, it would run in the off position. Just wondering.

[RaymondDurban]

I'm wondering something. If this tractor originally had a mag which has been converted to a distributor.... When the switch is pulled to the on position now it's actually off. So the switch would need to be pushed in to start and pulled out to turn it off. Is this correct?
Jim

To add a bit to what Eugene said, a battery switch can be used on a mag in the manner you described, but not the other way around. Since this tractor was originally equipped with a one wire kill switch, it had to be replaced with a two prong one for the battery ignition modification.

[jfavor]

Aha, I got it now. The switch itself grounds to the dash. I was thinking it still had two terminals with a wire from one leading to ground.

[Stanton]

Not what I intended. If the points are open you will not get a spark.

Remove the wire from the side of the magneto. Ignition switch on. Touch the bare end of the wire removed from the magneto to a ground - such as the side of the magneto or engine block. Look for a spark in the 1/4" gap from the coil wire to ground/engine block.

What we have done is split the ignition system in half. One half being the wiring, coil and ignition switch. The other half being the distributor (points, rotor, distributor cap, etc.).

If you have no spark with the described preliminary test, the problem is in the wiring, coil, and or ignition switch.

Tried to follow your advice. Removed magneto side wire, switch on, center distributer wire removed from cap (other end still in external coil) and laid it 1/4" away from the block (the block's painted). Without pulling the starter lever, when the magneto side wire was put back to the mag side post, there was a spark, but no spark between the coil wire and the block.

Also connected everything up and used a spark gap tester for each spark plug wire. I'm getting a spark at each plug.

I have a spare magneto from the '48 I'm re-doing. Put it on, still not starting.
I took the magneto from my running '49 and put it on. Still not starting.

Feel like I'm running around like a chicken with my head cut off. Frustrating to say the least.

[Bigdog]

If you're getting a spark at each plug you have either a timing problem or a fuel problem.

[Stanton]

If you're getting a spark at each plug you have either a timing problem or a fuel problem.

Timing is dead on. Went thru that procedure 'til I can do it in my sleep. Carb was overhauled at the beginning of this process.

[Eugene]

OK. Let's start at the beginning. Compression test results, dry then wet, are?

Ignition timing could be "dead on" but are the spark plugs connected to the correct distributor cap terminal? You still could be 180 degrees out - actually firing #4 cylinder when it should be firing #1 cylinder.

[Stanton]

Thanks to all for your input--it's invaluable.

BigDog's last comment about having spark at the plugs meant it has to be timing or fuel got me thinking. I knew it wasn't timing. Got home last evening, disconnected the air intake tube into the carb. Sprayed some ether in and pulled the crank rod. She tried to fire right up. That was a beautiful sound!

Then I got to looking at the carb again. Removed the carb fuel plug on the bottom and nothing came out. At some point in this process, the gas in the carb had been removed--don't ask me how, I thought gas was in there. I removed the gas supply tube at the carb and gas came out freely when the shutoff was open at the bowl. So, gas was getting from the tank to the carb, but not making it inside the carb. Had to be the float/needle valve. I had adjusted it earlier. So, I removed the carb, disassembled it, readjusted the float making sure of the high/low dimensions, and reinstalled.

Fired right up. She runs a little rough, so have some tweeking to do, but man it was good to hear her going again.

To all: when someone posts a problem, please keep making comments (of all kinds), no matter how obvious they may be. If BigDog hadn't made his comment, I don't know how long I would have thought I still had a carb full of gas when I didn't.

Have a tune-up kit coming from TM for the magneto/distributor, so will go ahead and install that, since I did find some burning under the distributor cap.

Again, thank you all.

[Bigdog]

Stanton - since you mentioned the burning under the cap I would bet that replacing the cap and rotor will correct the rough running.

[Stanton]

Stanton - since you mentioned the burning under the cap I would bet that replacing the cap and rotor will correct the rough running.

My thought exactly.