Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
Moderator: Team Cub
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
Hi folks, and Merry Christmas! New to this board, glad to be here. I'm replacing the brake lining and axle seals on the right side of my Super A and when replacing the bull gear there is about 1/4 in. of play from side to side and it may even touch the castings of the housing on the inner side when shifted that way. Should there be this amount of play? I took it apart and tried the gear the other way and when everything was tightened the bull gear was locked down. Thanks for any help. Brian.
Welcome brian and Merry Christmas. I also have a Super A and will be doing a brake job. I can't answer your question as I haven't apart yet, but someone will be along with the answer.
Aim Low, Acheive Your Goals.
Thanks Tom, you probably already know this, but you might want to use a cherry picker (engine hoist)if you have access to one to help remove the final drive housing after you get the wheel off. That thing is HEAVY!
Maybe you have a part missing or in the wrong place. If all parts are in the proper place, everything should tighten up on the shaft. First off, the wheel centers and axles are different from right to left, so keep things on the correct side.
On the left, parts stack up on the axle in this order:
1) seal retainer, felt, seal, gasket (on larger diameter of axle)
2) outer bearing (on smaller diameter, tight against larger diameter)
3) spacer (the long tube)
4) bull gear (with larger end of hub pointing OUT)
7) spacer (If I recall, this may be cup shaped)
9) cap screw with lock washer
10) gasket and cap
If you have a seed plate drive attachment, the spacer, washer and cap (7,8 and 9) are replaced with the shaft, washer, seal and retainer of the attachment.
The right side stacks up the same except that the spacer (7) is replaced with a flat spacer and a second spacer with 4 cogs on the outside.
Jim ,I don't recall having a cup shaped spacer on the outside( closest to transmission) of the inner bearing. It went bearing, thin spacer, strange looking washer approx. 3/8 thick round with four 1/8th. in. tabs spaced evenly sticking out along the outer edges, with the center hole of the washer cut to fit over the flat sides of the shaft then a regular washer, cap screw with lock washer , cap and gasket. all else seems the same.Could the tube like spacer possibly be worn by the bull gear? it seems like there should be a washer or spacer between the two.
Also, on #4 when you say larger end of hub,do you mean the end of the hub that sticks out the most from the bull gear?
The cup shaped spacer is only used on the left side of the tractor. On the right side, it is replaced with what you called the "thin spacer (and) strange looking washer". By larger end of the hub, I do mean the end that sticks out most from the bull gear. Maybe I should have said longer end.
It seems unlikely that the long spacer would have much wear. Are you sure you have the washer (5) that goes between the bull gear and the inner bearing? When in place, the hub of the bull gear should stand a bit longer than the splined portion of the axle. Thus washer 5 will rest against the hub of the bull gear, not against the splined step of the axle. The inner race of the inner bearing will rest against washer 5 so that pressure against the inner bearing race will transfer through the washer to the gear hub and keep all those parts from moving on the axle. You should then have "thin spacer (and) strange looking washer" that will slide over the first part of the axle and be able to push against the inner race of the inner bearing. The cap screw, lock washer and remaining flat washer will put pressure on the "thin spacer (and) strange looking washer".
You have to have all these pieces in the right sequence or something will be loose. With the amount of slack you described, my thought is the washer (5) that goes between the gear and the inner bearing is missing.
Thanks so much for the explanation and diagrams they are a big help. Yes, when disassembling, I did hear something fall into the housing ( I have it sitting upside down) later I remembered this and found washer # 5 laying in remaining gear oil. I guessed right on this one and got it back in the right place. BTW the edge of this washer has a small taper,don't know if it matters but I turned taper toward the bearing.All else seems exactly as diagram but I can still see the splines on the shaft when moving the gear side to side. According to this diagram I should not be able to. I"ll double check this in the morning and see what I can find. Again, thanks so much for your time and help especially on Christmas day ! Brian.
Hi, just got in from my shop. I could indeed see about 1/4 in. of splines on the bull gear shaft and could take a thin screwdriver and move the above mentioned washer (#5). I then removed the cap screw and washer and noticed the end of the shaft was not even with the top of the cog washer. I took a large socket that was about the same size as the outer race of the bearing and drove the bearing in a little,( about 1/4 inch, imagine that!) replaced the cog washer, now even with end of the shaft, and then the rest of the parts and now everything looks good!
This brings me to my next question, what locks all this in place? The bearings don't seem to be that tight in the housing nor do they seem that tight on the shaft. Maybe I'm missing something, but that does not seem like enough to keep the shaft or bearings from moving or running out. Sorry about all the questions and thanks again Jim for all your time. Brian.
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