Sun Jan 15, 2012 4:38 pm
I know it's repetitive but re-check your plug wire placement. Then all connections. If you have the timing close it should start. If all checks out and it still doesn't start you may need to try pull-starting it. An engine low on compression will often start this way when it won't fire off with the starter.
Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:19 pm
Bigdog, I will do that, and while I have your attention, I'm going to explain a suspicion I have from the beginning. I don't think I explained this, as I thought I was careful.
When I removed the wires, distributor and all that, fiddling with the gear, I thought I discovered,(it seems like I explained this once, maybe the phone rang or something and it didn't get posted, button problem), but anyway, at some point I noticed the firing order was correct but that the wires were one each over to the left. In other words, #1 wire was where 2 wire should be, #3 wire was where 1 wire should be, #4 wire was where 3 wire should be, and #2 wire was where 4 wire should be making each off one in the towers but in the correct order.
I then operated under the assumption that they were timed that way and needed to go back in the same way.
The obvious thing to try would be to move each wire one clockwise, so as to correct to the cap(1) tower labeled, and then maintaining the order.
I don't want to burn any thing out, will it hurt to move the wires in the dist cap all clockwise one and try it, the thought here is that I was not careful or mistaken which is really very likely seeings how this is a stretch for me? Thank you and others in advance!
Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:59 pm
crowdaddy wrote:The obvious thing to try would be to move each wire one clockwise, so as to correct to the cap(1) tower labeled, and then maintaining the order.
I don't want to burn any thing out, will it hurt to move the wires in the dist cap all clockwise one and try it?
It won't hurt anything to put the spark plug wires in the correct distributor plug tower.
Might I suggest down loading an Operator's manual for a Cub. Free. Top of page under manuals. Got pictures and instructions on timing an engine.
And you still need to find the timing notches. You must either have not cleaned hard enough or were looking in the wrong place. So back to the pictures in the Cub Operator's manual.
Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:30 pm
Thank you Eugene, I'm studying or getting ready to.
Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:59 am
Eugene wrote:Might I suggest down loading an Operator's manual for a Cub.
I believe we are looking at a 140 not a cub.
Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:10 am
That's a good point, the cub has lots of information about the distributor and all, but the 140 is different in areas where I'm trying to learn but can't really transfer the information in a practical way. I like the online cub manual and wish there was a 140 manual. I may ask the dealer to order one, they're expensive imo, but I'm going to have to do something. So is taking it to a mechanic.
I hate to give up on it, but I might take it in or talk the mechanic into timing it in my shelter/building.
Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:21 am
Getting the plug wires is no big deal. You just need to find TDC on one of the cylinders - preferably #1 and check to see where the rotor button is pointing. If not pointing directly at the #1 tower you need to make it do that. If it's close, you can just turn the distributor. if it's not, then pull the distributor and turn the rotor until it points at #1 tower and re-install. Then place #1 wire on the #1 tower and follow with 3,4 and 2 in clockwise order.
Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:07 am
ok , I have a plan now, thanks for thinking I might be able to do it yet. I'm going to get the wires in the correct towers, correct order, and forget about whether I put them back correctly earlier in my work. Then try to start it. If that doesn't work, and it may not as I suspect that the rotor will be pointing at #2 tower due to a variety of errors. Next, I should pull the distributor and put it back with the rotor pointing at #1 tower like you said, and like it should be.
From there I'll make a separate plan to learn the timing. It seems somewhat complicated by the fact I can't find the marks. But I'll do the thumb test and get 1 up there.
Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:25 am
Here is a link to Binder Books that sells all the manuals for the 140: http://www.binderbooks.com/numbered.htm#Farmall_100
. I don't know what your dealer is asking.
Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:35 am
crowdaddy wrote:I like the online cub manual and wish there was a 140 manual.
The PM manuals on the server cover the 140 and have everything that you need to know to install and time the distributor.http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Preventive%20Maintenance%20Manuals/index.html
Mon Jan 16, 2012 4:59 pm
Thank you I'll be looking throughout the 140 sections. There is going to be a pause in the conversations due to some I'llnesses. I'll get back ASAP.
Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:40 pm
Bigdog, Eugene, Jim and any one else following, I cleaned the pulley good enough with windex, to stick my finger in the #1,(sorry had to make sure I felt comfortable about that with all the hospital trips I'm making) anyway, the compression pushed my finger back so that when I checked the pulley, I saw what looked like a fine measuring area 2 inches with recessed hash marks with a slight indentation in the pulley in the middle.
So I pulled the distributor as instructed and put the rotor facing the #1 tower(after fixing the wire order as discussed, in the cap).
I'm getting ready to turn it over. Even if it doesn't start I wanted to thank you. I've never done this, and to find the area you have been talking about was great. I didn't think I could get this far with it and have it make sense to me. The compression trick with the finger or thumb, (it worked better with a finger as the 140 seems recessed a bit for my thumb) anyway, I'm going back after I throw some wood in the stove and warm up. Thank you I'll write later, any thing I'm forgetting to do or should do, please write and tell me so I can try it?
Tue Jan 17, 2012 2:24 pm
Oh yes, it started up, I've pulled it out of the building, letting it warm up. It sounds pretty good. I think I will advance or retard by twisting the distributor a little to see if it will smooth out some.
I can't thank you all enough. I'm at the end of a road that doesn't get plowed during snow storms until last. I've pushed snow all the way to the county road to get out before if the main road is open. I will feel much better about making it to the hospital should another emergency occur with my family. My snow blower works ok but the 140 is great.
Please know that I really appreciated this. I have wood laying around to pick up and the 140 snakes through the woods so very fine.
special thanks to Bigdog, Eugene, and Jim.
Tue Jan 17, 2012 4:10 pm
Congratulations on your success!!!! We knew you could do it!!!
Timing by ear is not a real accurate way to go but it will get you by. At some time you may want to borrow a timing light and get it set correctly. If it seems to lack power while working try very small adjustments to the distributor position to see if it helps.
Tue Jan 17, 2012 6:09 pm
You are a great coach Bigdog!! Knowing I can jump on it and get some work done is a big plus! Big thank you, I'm glad farmall made some nice tractors!
Would you be so kind as to suggest a type of timing light and an easy reader to learn how to do it? I'm getting some confidence, thanks for you and your site for having faith that I could do it. I almost gave in.
I'm going to pull a trailer full of wood to test if it will struggle with a load or not.
Do you think anyone would be interested to know the cost of the parts for the ignition, to see if we pay too much for parts or in some cases, it might help someone who wants to replace the ignition pathway? I may post that as it would be the least I could do to try and help anyone on here that wants to get it done. I won't be able to help anyone with lots of experience with tractor engines.
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