Electrical Problem on Farmall H

Farmall H, HV & Super H, 1939-1954

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Postby Dan England » Thu Jul 21, 2005 8:09 pm

Update on the H. I had the alternator checked and it is working properly. I believe that Jim's suggestion that the smoke from the resistor was oil burning off is correct. I spray the clutch region with PB Blaster each day, then start the tractor in gear and drive it some distance. It starts and runs well with no smoke from the ballast resistor but also no change in the stuck clutch at this time. Will continue this for a couple of weeks then switch to another method if clutch is still locked up. Dan
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Postby WKPoor » Wed Jul 27, 2005 10:18 pm

Well I am sure your clutch disc is rusted to the spline shaft ( easy fix) but how in the world can an old H be that dry in the first place. Take the bottom cover plate off most and nothing in there would rust if it were sittin besides the Titanic all these yrs! :lol: :lol: Anyway I would just take off that cover and fire up a can of Kroil. You'll be shiftin gears in know time.
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Postby Dan England » Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:41 pm

Another update on the H with a stuck clutch. I have been applying PB Blaster for about a week with no noticable effect. I gave it another trial run this morning. I started it in one of the faster gears and drove it around with the clutch depressed and repeatedly applied the brakes. It will now sit without moving, with clutch depressed and the motor at fairly high idle in the higher gears. If I increase the motor speed, I get a hot odor plus smoke from the clutch area and there is some oil leakage from that area (accumulated PB Blaster plus grease from the TOB?). Releasing the clutch causes the tractor to begin moving. So, it seems that there is progress on freeing up the clutch. If I try the above in the lower gears, the tractor continues to move, even when clutch is depressed and brakes are applied. Also, I can shift out of the higher gears when the clutch is depressed and the motor running but I cannot shift into a new gear without a risk of breaking gear teeth. With the above info, should I continue what I have been doing and will it completely free up the clutch? Should I now try something different and, if so, what should I do? As always, your advice is appreciated. Dan
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Postby Bigdog » Fri Jul 29, 2005 1:51 pm

Dan, the clutch disk is now free from the flywheel. I suspect wkpoor's assessment that it is not moving on the spline shaft is correct. Concentrate your spray in that area rather than on the clutch disk area. Keep working that clutch pedal and it should eventually free up.
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Postby George Willer » Fri Jul 29, 2005 3:47 pm

Dan,

In a nutshell, the disk can be either stuck or not stuck. Yours seems to be not stuck now, thanks to using the higher gears. That leaves two more possibilities... the spline (most likely), or the pilot bearing. I think your next area of attack should be the spline... easy if the tractor's split, but give the blaster time to work before you go to that trouble.
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Postby Eugene » Fri Jul 29, 2005 11:17 pm

Dan:

Let's try something simple. Adjust the linkage from the clutch pedel to the arm operating the throwout bearing. Add one more turn on the linkage - depending on how the linkage operates - you might have to shorten the linkage. The idea is to increase the throw, the amount of space between the pressure plate and flywheel a bit.

As per my earlier suggestion. You may not have to split the tractor to disassemble the H's clutch. Take a look at the I&T manual, IH-8, paragraph 197. You may have one of the H's that has a universal joint behind the clutch. If so you can disassemble (replace) the clutch without splitting the tractor.

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Postby WKPoor » Sun Jul 31, 2005 2:28 am

Dan, As for H clutch removal and install. Been there done that without splitting the tractor. Piece of cake!! Doesn't matter about a universal joint. The tractor is made to service the clutch through the big hole in the bottom after you remove the lift-all assuming it has one. That will be a bigger job than the clutch. If you decide you need to go that route I can give whatever details you need.
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Postby Dan England » Sun Jul 31, 2005 6:12 am

WK: I am hoping that I don't need to remove the clutch at this time. I will continue to treat the area with PB Blaster and see what happens. I keep a notebook of info on each type of tractor (Cub, SA, H), filing information from this forum that I might need at a later time. I would like to have instructions on changing the clutch of the H without splitting it to file for future use. I would imagine that other forum members will find this to be useful info also. Would you, at your convenience, provide that information? Thanks, Dan
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