More 184 whoas

[Dieselrider]

I have the tractor running after the electronic ignition but, when I try to engage the deck the tractor nearly dies. It acts like it is flooding out and I do notice the gasket in between the two halves is wet with gas like maybe the float is not shutting off the flow. How can I determine just where the gas level is in the carburetor? I have had it apart and cannot find anything wrong with the float. It does what it should (float) Cannot find any leaks- keeps air in and water out. Even with the adjustment screw on the carb all the way in it still runs. Any ideas? Should I go looking for a new carb or is there a way to save this one? Thanks

[Bob McCarty]

It doesn't sound like you set the float height and drop. Here's a chart from the GSS-1411 Service Manual. I'm assuming you have a Zenith Carb.


Bob

[Dieselrider]

It doesn't sound like you set the float height and drop. Here's a chart from the GSS-1411 Service Manual. I'm assuming you have a Zenith Carb.


Bob

I do have the Zenith carb. How do you set the float height? I will look for that in the manual. Didn't see how to set the height but then, I may have missed it. Okay, I found it in the manual and I am reading the description. Can't see much in this photo in the manual as it is mimeographed photo and not very clear. What do you guys use to measure the height? Do you all have the tool FES 36-3?
Then the manual stops there. It refers you to the specs sheet for what the level should be but, nothing about how to set it. How do you adjust the fuel level? The manual doesn't say unless it is somewhere else in the manual.

[Bob McCarty]

If you hold the carb so that the float is closing the needle valve, the distance from the edge of the carb to the top edge of the float should be 1 5/32". I use a caliper which would be set at 1.16". Then turn the carb over so the float drops. The distance from the the carb edge to the top of the float (now hanging down) should be 3/16" more or 1.35" with a caliper. If the float is set correctly, the gas level should be correct. Let me know if any of that doesn't make sense.

Bob

[Dieselrider]

That makes perfect sense, bob. Thank you. I was trying to figure out how you could set the fuel height once the carb was together and couldn't see the setting being made to the float prior to assembly as the answer. Cool

[Dieselrider]

Well, back to the proverbial drawing board. When I took down the carburetor the dimension was about 1.350 nearly 1 3/8 inches so, I adjusted the float until the proper 1 5/16" was achieved (drop was good as well) and put it all back together. Still lets way too much fuel in the carb. Tractor will start but, you cannot engage the deck and have the engine run properly. Gasket is still getting wet from fuel. Will take it down again tomorrow.

[Bob McCarty]

Dieselrider, You typed 1 5/16, I hope you meant 1 5/32. Next thing would be to see if the needle seat has something in it keeping the needle from sealing.

Bob

[Dieselrider]

Dieselrider, You typed 1 5/16, I hope you meant 1 5/32. Next thing would be to see if the needle seat has something in it keeping the needle from sealing.

Bob

Oops! Yes 1 5/32 approx 1.155". Will tare down again tomorrow night if I get a chance. thanks

[outdoors4evr]

Since you started this project working on timing, perhaps it would be helpful to double check the timing.
Set the high idle timing first using the 16 degree before TDC mark, then adjust your RPM's with the governor, then recheck the high RPM timing.
The low RPM timing is not adjustable, though if the timing does not move close to 0 degrees at a low RPM, then the timing advance mechanism may require service.

[Dieselrider]

Since you started this project working on timing, perhaps it would be helpful to double check the timing.
Set the high idle timing first using the 16 degree before TDC mark, then adjust your RPM's with the governor, then recheck the high RPM timing.
The low RPM timing is not adjustable, though if the timing does not move close to 0 degrees at a low RPM, then the timing advance mechanism may require service.

Did check to make sure the timing advance was working and it is. The problem now is definitely fuel related. I can find nothing blocking anything in the carb but, as soon as you turn the fuel valve on the carb fills with fuel and fuel will then run out the air intake of the carb if the air hose is off. I think I'll pull everything out of the carb and reassemble while using the diagram to be sure nothing is out of place- although I thought I had done that before. Getting frustrated right about now.

[outdoors4evr]

Don't know where you got your carb rebuild kit, but a lot of people really hate the aftermarket rebuild kits.
I think that one of the forum members rebuilds carbs. Might be less headache to send it to a pro.