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HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Farmall H, HV & Super H, 300 & 350, 1939-1958
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HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Phil D » Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:24 am

I have a 1951 Farmall H. I just bought a used 3 point hitch for it. I drained and refilled the belly pump with 30w nondetergent oil. I started the tarctor and operated the control lever. I figured since the outlets are plugged (I have not hooked up the point hitch hoses yet) that I would hear the engine change pitch indicating the pump was working. There is no change in the engine pitch. Does it sound like my belly pump is not operating?

R,

Phil Devine :help:
R,
"Phil D"

1951 Cub, L-54 grader blade, 144 Cultivators, 193 Mold Board Plow, 23-A Disc Harrows, 1951 Farmall "H", 2010 Farmall 35, 1951 John Deere B, 1956 John Deere 70.

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Jim Becker
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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Jim Becker » Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:42 am

Get a pressure gauge and screw it in place of one of the plugs.

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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Sep 16, 2012 1:15 pm

Normally yu do here a noticeable change in pitch. if you do not, it may have a problem. The clutch does have to be up for the belly pump to work, since it is actually driven by a coupling shaft form the transmission. If you have never used the lift you need to look in the space between the lift and transmission (may have to remove a cover) and make sure the coupling shaft is installed.
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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Phil D » Sun Sep 16, 2012 3:05 pm

I had it in neutral with the clutch out. Tried raising the rpms since my first test was at idle. No change in the engine tone. It has the coupling for the pump. I will have to see if the couple actually spins. If it is spinning, I guess I need to fix the pump or get a new one. :(
R,
"Phil D"

1951 Cub, L-54 grader blade, 144 Cultivators, 193 Mold Board Plow, 23-A Disc Harrows, 1951 Farmall "H", 2010 Farmall 35, 1951 John Deere B, 1956 John Deere 70.

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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Sep 16, 2012 5:50 pm

Does it have oil in it? 30 weight non detergent as I recall.
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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Phil D » Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:59 pm

Yes,

I drained what was in it and replaced it with 6 quarts of 30w nondetergent oil. The on;y thing I have not done is checked to see if the coupling spins when the engine runs. Other tahn that, I guess I need to lok for another pump or see about getting this one rebuilt.
R,
"Phil D"

1951 Cub, L-54 grader blade, 144 Cultivators, 193 Mold Board Plow, 23-A Disc Harrows, 1951 Farmall "H", 2010 Farmall 35, 1951 John Deere B, 1956 John Deere 70.

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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby randallc » Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:41 am

Since your drained and changed the fluid, does it have air in the system that needs to be worked out?
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Phil D
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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Phil D » Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:28 am

How do you bleed air out of the lift all system?
R,
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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:40 am

A liftall is a pretty simple system, and not much of anyway to bleed air out of it or needed to. Normally you can hear the motor load a little if it is dead ended, but sometimes you have to listen pretty close. As Jim suggested earlier, put a pressure gauge on it and see what you are actually getting before you do any serious work on it. Earlier liftalls only ran at 600 or 700 pounds, and later ones went up to 1100 or so pounds. You can get a gauge that will read that at anyplace that sells parts for pressure washers. Most TSC or farm supply stores will have one. You will just need the right size adapters. To remove the Liftall you have to remove the bolt for the control, the 3 pipe fittings screwed onto the sides and the top cap. Then support it from below while unbolting and letting it down. It is pretty heavy, and you will need to either make a support for letting it down, or have some help. To get it low enough to clear the tractor you will only have 6 inches of clearance under it, so plan accordingly.
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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Phil D » Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:07 am

Thanks for the insight. I need to make sure the coupling is turning with the transmission and if it is, I will put a gauge on the output and see what is happening. The local Farmall used parts guy sells pumps for $40 so except for the labor, I think I can get up and running no matter what without breaking the bank. When I grew up the farms I worked on had an "H" and that was my favorite tractor. Hence, I have one now. The only downfall was no 3 point hitch which is what started this venture. Thanks again for the quick replies and advice.
R,
"Phil D"

1951 Cub, L-54 grader blade, 144 Cultivators, 193 Mold Board Plow, 23-A Disc Harrows, 1951 Farmall "H", 2010 Farmall 35, 1951 John Deere B, 1956 John Deere 70.

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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby RustyFarmall » Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:20 pm

Did you pull the lever back far enough? It has to be pulled back a L O N G way.

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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Phil D » Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:24 pm

As far as it would go.
R,
"Phil D"

1951 Cub, L-54 grader blade, 144 Cultivators, 193 Mold Board Plow, 23-A Disc Harrows, 1951 Farmall "H", 2010 Farmall 35, 1951 John Deere B, 1956 John Deere 70.

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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:52 pm

Get yourself a length of hose and a clean bucket, preferably a 5 gallon bucket with a lid and a pour spout. Attach the hose to one of the outlets, and put it in the bucket.

Start the tractor and pull the lever. Oil should squirt out into the bucket at relatively low pressure.

Rebuilding the pump is no big deal either. It's usually just a matter of sanding the pump plate flat on a piece of glass with some emery cloth.

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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby Phil D » Mon Oct 01, 2012 8:34 am

I don't have any flow at all. When I uncapp the outlets, there is no flow when I operate the lever. I even tried primimg the outlets and still no output fromthe pump. I guess I will have to get another pump from the local Farmall parts guy and keep my fingers crossed that it will work.
R,
"Phil D"

1951 Cub, L-54 grader blade, 144 Cultivators, 193 Mold Board Plow, 23-A Disc Harrows, 1951 Farmall "H", 2010 Farmall 35, 1951 John Deere B, 1956 John Deere 70.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: HOW DO YOU TEST A FARMALL LIFT ALL?

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:22 am

Before you buy another one and hope, drop yours out (you will have to anyway) and take it apart, may be as simple as a stuck valve.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!


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