fasthitch vs 3 pt hitch?

[Joel]

I'm sure this exists somewhere already. If it does, please point me to it. My Super A-1 came with a draw bar. It's my understanding that I'd have to remove the rear cultivators to use the drawbar. I want to know whether y'all think I should keep it or get a fasthitch/quickhitch (almost exclusively called quickhitch by farmers I talk to around here) or a 3 point hitch. I'm torn for the following reasons:

With a 3 point hitch, I can borrow lots of attachments from my neighbor
I've heard the 3 point hitch setup on a super a is so far back that it limits the weight you can pick up.
The 3 point hitch is not as "Cool"/Authentic looking
The 3 point hitch seems to actually be more work than the fasthitch (correct me if I'm wrong)
The 3 point hitch would require I remove the back cultivators too
Fasthitch limits the number of attachments I can use
I'd have to buy instead of borrow attachments
Price difference in 3pt vs fasthitch attachments (gardening related going to start with plow and discs)
Fasthitch seems to have a better center of gravity

I know this seems like a generic question but I'm not having luck with searches. I am finding more info on 3 point hitch setups but I think a lot of those are because of marketing. Any suggestions on a product?
If I buy used how much should I look to spend for a fasthitch? Can I use one that come off a 140? Yes I know more noob questions.

I appreciate the input! Thanks.

[Super A]

Personally I prefer the fast hitch because it was made for the Super A-140 style tractor. In NC I don't think that fast hitch stuff is as hard to find or expensive, although I think prices have come up some. A neighbor had a three point hitch on his Super A before he sold it and though I didn't see it up close, it seemed to work well for him. He would have to take it off to use rear sweeps, but on a fast hitch you have to remove some stuff to cultivate tall crops as well, although that just requires pulling a few pins.

You can use any fast hitch from a 100 on up through the 140. You'll want the helper spring that fastens on the LH side of the tractor and connects to the hydraulic arm by the gas tank which raises/lowers the hitch, as a disk will be heavy. That requires getting the hydraulic arm from a 140 as well.

Also, you can buy some new one point fast hitch equipment at Agri-Supply and so forth. Also can get just the "point" to convert some three point stuff to fast hitch.

I have just about finished converting one of my Super A's to Fast Hitch. I can take pics if you want. The only thing I have found I don't like is you can't easily use trailing PTO implements with it, the PTO shaft will hit the hitch arms. A mounted PTO implement like a bush hog works fine.

Al

[Joel]

Yes please. Pictures would help a great deal. No hurry though. I'd have to get a hydraulic arm from a 140 because there is nowhere to connect the helper spring on the super A, right? I'm assuming I'd need the helper spring with a 3pt hitch as well.

The only thing I have found I don't like is you can't easily use trailing PTO implements with it, the PTO shaft will hit the hitch arms. A mounted PTO implement like a bush hog works fine.

I don't know what you mean by trailing vs mounted. Do you have an example? Even hitting the hitch arm, does it work or cause more pressure than would be ok?

Thanks for the helpful tip.

[Super A]

Yes please. Pictures would help a great deal. No hurry though. I'd have to get a hydraulic arm from a 140 because there is nowhere to connect the helper spring on the super A, right? I'm assuming I'd need the helper spring with a 3pt hitch as well.

The only thing I have found I don't like is you can't easily use trailing PTO implements with it, the PTO shaft will hit the hitch arms. A mounted PTO implement like a bush hog works fine.

I don't know what you mean by trailing vs mounted. Do you have an example? Even hitting the hitch arm, does it work or cause more pressure than would be ok?

Thanks for the helpful tip.

I don't think the helper spring would hurt on a three point. When I say trailing I mean something that has its own wheels and pulls like a trailer--pivots at the drawbar. A mounted implement would be like a bush hog that clicks in the fast hitch and does not pivot. I broke a PTO shaft on a feed cart before I figured this out! The problem comes in making sharp turns.

Al

[Joel]

Thanks!

[Matt Kirsch]

You sound hesitant to remove the rear cultivator sweeps. Normally you'd take ALL the cultivators off once the crops are too tall to cultivate, so the tractor is free and clear to perform other jobs. The cultivators are awkward and in the way 9 months out of the year.

[Jim Becker]

You will get better informed comments if you tell us what implements you have that you intend to use and all the implement that you don't have and need to obtain so you can use. A lot of the 3-point hitches made for a Super A have poor geometry and don't work very well. What implements you intend to use determines whether that matters. As far as the happy owners goes, as often as not that can be explained by "ignorance is bliss."

[Joel]

Thanks for the input!.

You sound hesitant to remove the rear cultivator sweeps. Normally you'd take ALL the cultivators off once the crops are too tall to cultivate, so the tractor is free and clear to perform other jobs. The cultivators are awkward and in the way 9 months out of the year.

I hadn't thought of that. I see your point.

You will get better informed comments if you tell us what implements you have that you intend to use and all the implement that you don't have and need to obtain so you can use. A lot of the 3-point hitches made for a Super A have poor geometry and don't work very well. What implements you intend to use determines whether that matters. As far as the happy owners goes, as often as not that can be explained by "ignorance is bliss."

Well said. I currently have no drag behind implements. What I've got came with the tractor: cultivators, fertilizer hopper setup, hiller disk, drawbar, from bar part of a swinging drawbar (I think) Visible in pictures here: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=170&t=73696
I plan on purchasing a bottom plow and a disk set/harrow maybe a plantar... although not unless a stumble across one for a great price. So far my main plans are for gardening. Also, my garden will be on a 3/4acre spot (so smaller after subtracting turning room on ends and sides. I might want a scrap blade for the driveway later on. I don't plan on mowing with it any time soon, although I might down the road (long term plan includes buying more land). I was a little concerned about Al's comment regarding taking sharp turns with a fasthitch dragging attachment. Would this problem be the same for a 3point hitch?

Part of me wouldn't mind having a belt driven attachment like a hammermill but that would be more of a just for fun item and I can't think it would be relevant to this discussion.

Thanks!

[Super A]

Thanks for the input!.

You sound hesitant to remove the rear cultivator sweeps. Normally you'd take ALL the cultivators off once the crops are too tall to cultivate, so the tractor is free and clear to perform other jobs. The cultivators are awkward and in the way 9 months out of the year.

I hadn't thought of that. I see your point.

You will get better informed comments if you tell us what implements you have that you intend to use and all the implement that you don't have and need to obtain so you can use. A lot of the 3-point hitches made for a Super A have poor geometry and don't work very well. What implements you intend to use determines whether that matters. As far as the happy owners goes, as often as not that can be explained by "ignorance is bliss."

Well said. I currently have no drag behind implements. What I've got came with the tractor: cultivators, fertilizer hopper setup, hiller disk, drawbar, from bar part of a swinging drawbar (I think) Visible in pictures here: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=170&t=73696
I plan on purchasing a bottom plow and a disk set/harrow maybe a plantar... although not unless a stumble across one for a great price. So far my main plans are for gardening. Also, my garden will be on a 3/4acre spot (so smaller after subtracting turning room on ends and sides. I might want a scrap blade for the driveway later on. I don't plan on mowing with it any time soon, although I might down the road (long term plan includes buying more land). I was a little concerned about Al's comment regarding taking sharp turns with a fasthitch dragging attachment. Would this problem be the same for a 3point hitch?

Part of me wouldn't mind having a belt driven attachment like a hammermill but that would be more of a just for fun item and I can't think it would be relevant to this discussion.

Thanks!

On the cultivators, most people leave the universal mounting frames on, all the time. You can loosen the big nut on each gang and drop the tooling. We never did that--just remove the individual hillers or whatever--the cultivator toolbars make it easier to step up on the tractor. On a fast hitch the rear sweeps are easy as you just pull a couple pins and take them off.
The interference issue shouldn't be a problem with a three point, and the only time you will have trouble is with a PTO dragged implement. From the sounds of things this won't be an issue for you. If you get a mower/bush hog down the road, they make fully mounted ones so again that won't be a problem with the fast hitch, if you go that way.

I owe you some fast hitch pics. Will get them asap.


Al

[Jim Becker]

OK, I've been a little distracted this week. Hopefully you will still see this response. Not having a mower in the mix of uses makes things much simpler. Direct mounted mowers are a pain to mount/remove and tend to be needed every week or so, no matter what else you are in the middle of.

Since you already have most of what you need, just go with it (at least for a year) and see how it works. The main things you need to add are a plow and a disk harrow. You should be able to find a mounted plow for the Super A (attaches to reversed drawbar) and a pull behind disk. You can probably find both for less than the cost of a Fast-Hitch attachment or 3-point. As I said before, a 3-point plow is likely to not be satisfactory anyway.

You may be able to go through a year by only mounting each implement one time:
In the spring, mount the plow and plow the whole garden.
Pull the plow off and mount the drawbar to pull the disk.
Mount the cultivator and fertilizer unit and use it until the plants get to big to cultivate.
Pull the cultivators and install the drawbar for general use the rest of the year.

You may mount the plow in the fall to do fall plowing.

Of all these tasks, mounting the plow is the only one that will be much easier with the Fast-Hitch. You can probably leave the fertilizer unit on all the time. I'd probably pull the driver chain off if I left it on when not using it.

[Joel]

Jim, thanks for the reply. This option seems very attractive right now since it'll take less cash. I like that. I've been busy this week too. Need to start looking for auctions and estate sales in the area.

Thanks.

[Matt Kirsch]

A Super A plow is similar to the Cub's, except the front depth control is operated by the right arm of the touch control.

The Super A plow setup is just the plow beam/bottom assembly, and a bar for the depth control. Everything else should already be on your tractor, such as the rear rockshaft and the U-shaped drawbar.