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So the build begins. My first cub was for a quick refurbish, but didnt quite work out that way. The cub was a purchase from a friend whom purchased from an auction about 2 years ago. It is a non-runner; the engine was free in 2011. I purchased the cub with a Servis BM60 belly mower about a mont ago. And the build begins.......
Now the motor is stuck, no big deal right? Well it's stuck good..
I started with a normal disassembly and things got worse. Stuck pistons, stuck valves, water and pitting damage on the valve seats and combustion chambers; Almost like the cub is saying "let me rest, Im done".
Every bolt is stuck, nothing wants to break loose or disassemble smoothly. Mr. Cub just wants to be left alone. What do you do? Honor his wishes? Keep on working? Scrap pile? Push him off the Preverbal cliff?
Here, we are just keep on working and wearing him down because deep down we all know the cub wants to return to service just as bad as i want him to.
So here we go; I soak the motor down with PB Blaster in the spark plug holes expecting to break him loose in a day or so ….. not so much, I had to weld bolts to the valves just to be able to pull them out. A month later the motor is upside down on the engine stand still stuck.
With a newly discovered and heartbreakingly cracked block I turn to the forum for knowledge; with the help of the well known forum member Bizerk I do have a new set of engine braces on order witch is great, if I can ever get the crankshaft pulley off. Again I turn to the wealth of knowledge here at Farmallcub.com and find all the info that I need. With the Method#2 setup from the cub book of knowledge I was off and running or so I thought. Pulley still stuck. Heat, still stuck.
What do you do, cracked block, stuck crank pulley, overall bad attitude?? Ahhhhh I’ll keep working.
Here I am today, cracked block with crank pulley still stuck. Maybe it will break loose maybe not, I don’t know yet, But for some reason this cub is here in my garage; why?
I'm not one to quickly throw in the towel on something like this, but I think you'd be money and time ahead to strip what you can off the engine and look for another good short block that you can replace this one with.
Agree with Ray and Jim. Get another tested, running engine. Much cheaper. Even if you get the engine apart, think it will need major machine work and new parts.
Looking at the bottom end of the engine. Looks like it's been full of water for an extended period of time.
Strip the engine of serviceable parts.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Sorry for your luck. I only had one stuck piston - looks like all 4 of yours are frozen solid.
If you could get the crank out you can probably beat the pistons out one at a time - hand sledge and block of wood - just to prove you can do it, but like the others say, it probably won't be a serviceable engine ever again.
On the bright side - your bores look like what my #4 looked like on the '65 and it's a pretty strong runner with only a hone job and new rings. I've mowed about 4 hours with it and it's used virtually no oil. It's rehab continues....
There are a couple parts tractors here .. Good luck.http://atlanta.craigslist.org/search/gr ... k=&maxAsk=
The prices look reasonable to me.
I have brought tractors like this back to life on other peoples money because they were insistent on repairs as it had been in the family etc; etc...
I cautioned them about the expense and reminded them if the engine was this well cared for you can bet once it starts that is only the beginning.
When those jobs were done you could tell by the customers reaction they knew they overspent but had authorized every penny of it along the way.
I'm the first to tell people there are a lot of cubs out there and if you are patient you can pick one up for under a K note that needs less than a C note to be pretty close to perfect.
Donor tractors are important to this hobby. Remember once that engine is running you have a few other big ticket items that may need service. Best of luck to you.
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
Do a search for crankshaft pulley puller (top of this page) and get some ideas on getting that pulley off.
As others have said, I would invest in a replacement engine block, your sheet metal looks to be in good shape, so you are ahead of the game there.
What condition are the crankshaft journals in?
Thanks for your input guys (i need it) I will take all of this information into account. When the crankshaft pulley gives up and comes off i will remove the crankshaft and have a better idea about the condition of the rest of the engine. I removed the rod caps; the engine has been built before and has .020 oversized bearings in it. The rod bearings look to be new and lightly used. There is no ridge at all in the cylinders. I will post better pics later tonight. I think that when i have it fully disassembled I will be able to gather more information to make a better informed choice on what to do. The block crack is not visible on the outside of the block and looks to be very minor to others that I have seen. But will need more information. I will post better pics of it as well.
I am planning on having the block and componets measured at Cassidey's machine shop in Macon GA. I will also post my findings and their evaluation of the situation as well.
This just isnt the way I saw this project going.. I am disappointed but still optimistic at this point. I really want to build this tractor.
Y'all stay tuned...
We will all be cheering for you.
Good news, the Crank pulley is OFF!!!!!! Finally!! I fully disassembled the engine after I was able to get the crank out of the way. With a little help the pistons came on out. The crank journals look good to me, It seems to have a semi-fresh rebuild.?.?.?. The rod bearings and crank bearings look newer to me, I will post pics shortly. the rod bearins are oversized to .020 but I cannot find any markings on the crank bearings. The cylinders look OK but Im sure will need to be bored out due to small pitting. I also cannot find any markings on the pistons to show that they are oversized.
So at this point I will take the block in and have the machine shop measure and estimate a repair cost. With the machine shop information and recomendations I will be able to make the best choice possible for me.
If the machine shop can sucessfully replace valve seats, deck the head and block (if needed), polish crank, and sucessfully clean up/ bore the cylinders; will it be worth it with the crack is the big question.
Please take a look and provide more feedback, I will post Machine shop information ASAP. I will post better pictures of the crack as well.
Here is more information on the crack and why I would like to save the motor.
All of my casting numbers match. I would really like to have this tractor all original 1952 from front to rear, it would mean more to me that way (anyone understand/agree?) I feel like I have started this project and want to finish. If the build works out it is a personal project for me to keep and mow my place with, not a build to sell.
The crack did not allow oil to leak and is nowhere close to the water jacket.
The machine shop said they can professionally repair cast iorn cracks in blocks and will be glad to evaluate for me.
Bizerk has me first on the list to recieve a new set of engine braces. (I will keep them if I decide to use this engine or not)
All that being said and with better pics of the crack; I ask: How bad is it?
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