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Thanks again for suggestions on a trailer to haul the Cub. I got it home and have some questions. We had it painted 5 years ago and when we got it back, I had to pull the magneto to clean it and noticed that the drive on the governor appears to be in the wrong place.
1. I may need to pull the governor and re-time it. What I cant figure out is how it ran for years this way since it was never pulled before. I have an older post about this. I am attaching a picture showing the crank pulley and you can see how far it is from TDC when the impulse coupling snaps. When I had the magneto out, I could tell the dots on the sprockets weren't line up.
2. In my other picture of the block, just behind the air cleaner is a vacant hole. It appears to have relatively fine threads. What goes in here?
3. The ratiator drain plug had been removed and it appears to be long gone. The manual says the plug is a 3/8 NPT but the size of the hole looks more like a 1/4" NPT (about 1/2" in diameter). I'll buy a new plug.
Anyway, here are some pictures and thanks for the help. Let me know if you need any more information.
I'm not sure exactly what you're lining up there. With #1 at TDC (timing mark on pointer), the two slots for the mag should be somewhere around 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock (or 4 and 10, I can't remember). The rotor will be pointed at #1. If it's close, time the mag and you're good to go. Couple great YouTubes on how to time the mag if you're not familiar. Simple process. If the slots aren't correct, then remove the gear and get it there. In my case, I could not use the factory marks to line up the gear. Although it had never been apart, they didn't line up. No idea why, but folks here told me it doesn't matter - make it right and it'll run fine. They were right. Someone else might have a more complete explanation...
Thanks for the quick reply. It sounds like you have had the same situation I've got with the timing. I'll probably pull the governor and get the gear in the right location but how it ran with it that far off is baffling. As far as I know, it had never been removed and we used the tractor for about 15 years with it that way. I guess that's what make them fun.
The hole in the block I mentioned is for the crankcase breather tube. I found a picture of the tractor just after paint and the tube was still there. It must have been removed at some point. I'll make one or buy one to replace it.
If you can't find it, and you're a not a stickler for origninality or worried about the "correct police," you can simply plug it up. It's not really necessary, because the oil filler cap is vented to atmosphere already. The breather tube was eliminated on later models.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
Kyle, I had this same timing problem with my 48 cub, only mine was off before TDC where yours is after TDC. It ran fine but had no power. The governor was a tooth or two off and the PO had set the valve tappets to run where it was firing. It took me a long time to figure out, because when I lined the governor up right the tractor wouldn't start. Once you have your governor on right, retime your valves and save yourself the heartache I suffered. Dale.
"It's better to regret the things you've done than the things you didn't do."
Still can't help to think "Wish I hadn't of done that!"
Well, I put in some fresh gas and hooked up the battery and the Cub fired up without a lot of trouble.
It seems to run a well as I remembered it doing years ago so I'm really happy. I need to take care of a few drips from the radiator plug and carburetor bowl plug, but I'm going to enjoy it and keep an eye on it. I don't know why it runs so well if the timing is as far off as it seems but I'm leaving the timing alone for now.
Another piece of the puzzle solved. Digging through the box of spare parts my Dad had, I found a couple of new petcocks. It looks like somewhere in the Cub's past, someone tapped the hole for a petcock to make draining it easier. I'll give them a try tomorrow. I also found the missing crankcase vent tube.
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
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