This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link:
Privacy Policy

NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.

Paint prep question?

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
User avatar
Boss Hog
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 10290
Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:35 pm
Zip Code: 23962
eBay ID: dmb2613
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: VA. Randolph

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby Boss Hog » Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:15 am

Don McCombs wrote:More information on the spot putty, please.


It is thick primer , maybe Rob will post on it . It is right good stuff if it is not used to fill in DEEP spots
Boss
IN GOD WE TRUST
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg

SPONSOR AD

Sponsor



Sponsor
 

User avatar
Dusty B
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1880
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 7:35 am
Zip Code: 61736
Tractors Owned: '45 SC Case
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: IL, Downs
Contact:

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby Dusty B » Fri Oct 26, 2012 11:39 am

Have had good results w/Valspar from F & Fleet! Use a WM self etching primer. Not a trailer queen! Dusty B
Grandpa's '41 B
'56,,'57,'59, Cu'b
'45 C
'55 Case S
Dad's DB garden tractor
'48 DeSoto
'31 "A Coup
'79 Lincoln TC
God looks out for those of us who don't know how to look out for ourselves!

lazyuniondriver
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 438
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:37 am
Zip Code: 44134
Tractors Owned: 1949 & 1951 Farmall Cubs

Several Snapper Garden Tractors
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Southern Suburbs of Cleveland, Ohio

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby lazyuniondriver » Fri Oct 26, 2012 4:30 pm

Mike

Two things to remember, you get what you pay for and you can't rush bodywork.

Majic paint, for better or for worse, is available today in unlimited supply, in the proper color, at a cost effective price point, and suits my individual needs. I'm sure not everyone will have experienced the success I have enjoyed with this economical coating.

I am amazed how well the spray can finished result does look when a reasonable to slightly excessive amount of time has been spent on the foundation. It doesn't matter if the old formulations performed better, you can't buy them anymore and my cupboard is bare.

I'm sure EPA mandates requiring the removal of heavy metals from paints that have plagued the professional industry for years has also trickled down to the do-it-yourself manufacturers resulting in new products not being as user friendly as the old paints that people enjoyed many a successful, quicker drying paint job from over the years. Did older paints make up for a multitude of sins? Maybe a topic for later discussion.

Unless you have access to professional refinishing facilities, you can't expect a professional job and have to live with the possibility of top coat imperfections. You are no different than a professional painter, you will personally see paint flaws overlooked by customers and others because you know they are there, such as thinning along sharp edges.

My chief complaint with the Majic brand is drying time. You need to support a dust free environment for as long as possible for best results and water drops or foreign objects will guarantee a complete sand down.

Thankfully, you are painting a cub and not the hood on a '68 Caddy. While I take pride in doing the best job I can, it is what it is, a tractor. If you demand a showroom automotive quality finish, it will only be had at professional automotive refinishing prices.

One quart of quality automotive paint from PPG or Martin Senour will cost around a hundred dollars, add another fifty for reducer to thin it and hardener to flash it. This will only yield a little less than a half gallon of sprayable coating when mixed at the recommended ratios. Thirty or forty bucks of Majic will do the entire cub and leave some left for touch up too.

One disadvantage of the spay can finish is scratch repair of painted tin at a later date. Very difficult if not impossible to touch up a small area with seamless results. Luckily with a limited amount of large unseamed surface areas on the cub, not a big problem to re paint the damaged panel.

You don't need a professional facility to undertake the task of surface preparation. Someone posted earlier if you can feel it, you will see it. Along those lines, if you can see a flaw in primer, paint won't fix that either. This information is for real.

Another comment was made about refinishing 90% prep,
10% painting. Maybe even go a little higher on the prep percentage and a little less on the painting technique.
If you have a deadline, plan on a horrible outcome trying to meet it most cases.

All my body and paint jobs are at leisure for my kids, scouts, and friends benefit of learning bodywork and painting with emphasis placed on surface prep. We take one step at a time, if it doesn't pass the test, its redone to my satisfaction. No time deadline, just learning. Of course I have let them fail by proceeding to the next step without the previous step completed properly so they may observe the result of "saving time" for themselves.

Non catalyst fillers, primer and paints all have variable drying times that change daily with weather conditions. You can't rush drying time so the time estimated to refinish a tractor is hard to establish outside the paint booth environment.

My best advice is to spend the time necessary to make your tin baby butt smooth, your cast and pressed metal parts free from grease, dirt, rust and flaking paint before priming and then finally sanding the tin before paint. Beyond the tin, you make the decision on blasting or wire brush work as necessary. As you mentioned, doing one piece at a time affords the luxury professionals don't have, breaking the monotony of surface prep. Obtain a scrap fender and waste one can getting your technique down observing how the paint flows and how it bonds. I've seen plenty of tractors at the fair that had the tin done professionally, the rest done in the barn. Not a bad way to go, again a decision every individual can make.

We'll break the tractor into sections refinnishing one at a time. Plastic sheeting is cheap protection to seal off what has been done to keep it fresh looking, dust and overspray free so it appears to all have been painted at the same time.

Choosing between a barn finish and a professional job has never been a decision I've had to make. While I choose to maintain good looking equipment, I also use it. I personally wouldn't spend money for a high dollar paint job on a working farm tractor, snow plow or lawn mower. A dedicated unit for tractor rides or parades would have to be evaluated differently.

Remember, by the time you add up the costs of paint, sealers, primers, HM fees, shop materials and the labor expense of an automotive quality paint job, you may have exceeded the value of your tractor.

Another tip. Buy all your paint before fair time. Maybe its a regional thing but around here, every color is available except IH red before and during fair time.
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
Image

lazyuniondriver
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 438
Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:37 am
Zip Code: 44134
Tractors Owned: 1949 & 1951 Farmall Cubs

Several Snapper Garden Tractors
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Southern Suburbs of Cleveland, Ohio

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby lazyuniondriver » Sat Oct 27, 2012 12:22 am

Here is an example of the depth and shine of spray paint when the surface is prepped properly.

I fabbed two extinguisher holders from pretzel cans. They were smooth to start with so they only needed scuffed before paint. I have no clue what type of paint was originally used on the cans from the pretzel factory.

The extinguisher is painted aluminum from the factory. Naturally its hard to see in the picture but the finish on the extinguisher and the spray painted holder are identical. The transmission fill plugs reflection in the paint is visible in the picture.
Attachments
1351314332-picsay.jpg
1351314332-picsay.jpg (40.25 KiB) Viewed 341 times
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
Image

Rob in NH
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2729
Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 7:11 am
Zip Code: 03848
eBay ID: panelbeata
Tractors Owned: 1947 circle cub
1950 cub demonstrator
1957 cub
1967 cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NH, Kingston
Contact:

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby Rob in NH » Sat Oct 27, 2012 6:25 pm

i've used some magic paint too, it came out nice. don't spill any gas on it because it disappears like majic too.
Image

Landreo
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 1172
Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2004 7:10 am
Zip Code: 29130
Tractors Owned: fcub(5)
tricycle cub
154 (4)
Earthmaster (2)
JD 40T, JD 420 crawler-loader, JD MT
JD Unstyled A, Styled A, Unstyled AR
JD H
Centaur Tractor
AC Model C, G
Cub Cadets (9)
Gibson D
Red-E
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: SC, Ridgeway

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby Landreo » Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:19 am

For the original question:

For small pits you can use a primer surfacer or just a surfacer and sand, larger pits use spot putty, even larger pits use bondo. Or don't worry about the small stuff and just paint, depends on what level you want to end up with. Rattle can paint is thin and you may need 5-6 coats to really cover, a few coats may look like it covered but not.

Rob in NH
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2729
Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 7:11 am
Zip Code: 03848
eBay ID: panelbeata
Tractors Owned: 1947 circle cub
1950 cub demonstrator
1957 cub
1967 cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: NH, Kingston
Contact:

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby Rob in NH » Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:03 am

if you want something a little more durable try some polyester glazing putty. its like a very smooth body filler, great for filling pits and minor body imperfections. it dries fast and is comparable in price to the old type putty's, and it adheres well to bare metal.
Image

Gary Dotson
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 5618
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 6:20 am
Zip Code: 43358
Tractors Owned: 48 Cub Diesel (Cubota)
53 Cockshutt 20 restored (Shooter)
52 Cockshutt 20 unrestored
47 Leader "B" (Herckie)
49 Leader "D" (Princess)
49 Leader "D" very rough
48 Leader "D" unrestored
Kubota B6200E
Kubota B6200HST
Kubota B8200HST-D
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH West Mansfield

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby Gary Dotson » Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:55 am

I agree, Rob, I usually use USC "Icing". The old "lacquer putty" is ok for very small imperfections but Icing will work great on much larger problem areas. It's basically a low viscosity form of body filler. A body man friend turned me on to this stuff several years ago and it's fantastic stuff.

User avatar
Buzzard Wing
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 10540
Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2004 10:14 pm
Zip Code: 02840
Location: RI, Newport

Re: Paint prep question?

Postby Buzzard Wing » Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:32 am

I am reading this a day after chipping out the 'tube putty' out of the pits in my Mott mower (designed with 3 perfect water troughs) ... No good for larger areas, in fact it trapped stuff from mowing and water. Possibly worse than leaving it alone?

As for paint, despite the reformulations that every paint has gone through CaseIH IronGuard is still good stuff. You can handle it within a hour or so and it has good shine.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)


Return to “Farmall Cub”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 29 guests