Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:59 am
ricky racer wrote:Eugene, you recommend gear lube or Hy-tran for the tranny. There is a big difference in the properties of gear lube and Hy-tran.
I was just trying to be impartial and not start another which oil is best fight.
Manuals for your tractor are available at the top of the page. Free down load. Within the operator's manual is a lubrication chart showing locations and type of lubricant to use.
Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:37 am
Since the question of battery brand was previously raised in this thread.
I grew up during the "Maintenance Free" era of batteries and quickly learned in order to get the maximum lifespan from a storage cell, maintenance actually is required.
I can expect 6 plus years of life out of batteries I maintain in vehicles, equipment, or used in other storage cell capacities.
As far as brands go, proper maintenance will extend any manufactures service life.
I currently have 5 Interstate brand batteries in service on various applications (no 6 volts) and can report nothing but success.
I've never had to warranty an Interstate brand battery but since I purchase them from an Interstate dealer, not a department store, I don't think a defective battery would be a problem to exchange.
Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:31 am
Thanks for all of your help!! I will try again with the new battery and check to see which system I have. The photos and descriptions are very helpful, thanks for reaching out chris, I might just take you up on that.
Also will take some pictures once I get her all cleaned up and with the attachments (front blade, cultivators, sickle bar mower).
Mon Nov 05, 2012 7:29 pm
Don McCombs wrote:The next time you attempt a start, making sure you are getting oil pressure within 20 to 30 seconds. If not, shut it down and prime the oil pump. Remove the oil filter cap and filter. You will find a small hole in the upper right portion of the filter housing. Pour about a cup of oil in that hole. Turn the engine over and you should get oil spurting back out that hole. If not, add some more and try again. Replace the filter and cap when you get circulation. Running without oil circulation will produce disastrous results.
I don't think you'll ever get oil pressure showing on the gauge at cranking speed. I've never been able to. Just my
Mon Nov 05, 2012 10:05 pm
My second sentence assumes that the engine has started.
Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:01 pm
Speaking of Interstate batteries,
My son did a science experiment in school a few years ago using
D cell batteries.
Using 3 of the same brand flashlights.
He put Interstate D cels in one, Energizers in another and Duracell in the last one.
Turned them on and left on over night.
Interstate beat the other two by many hours.
Hope that goes for the Automotive batteries as well.
Good luck with your Cub.
Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:52 am
Thanks for all the help again guys. Turns out that I have an electronic ignition and a new battery perfectly solved the problem.
Here is another question. Once it started, I let it idle for 5 min or so and noticed that the oil pressure gauge was maxed out. I did just change the oil so I wouldnt think the filter would be clogged, is the oil pressure relief valve a good place to start?
Also, being new around here, is this the correct format to tack more questions on my original post or should I start a new one??
Sat Nov 10, 2012 7:15 am
I would start a new topic with any new questions. As with your oil pressure. It could be a stuck relief valve, could be a bad gauge, or just a good engine with new oil. Run the engine for a couple minutes and when it warms a bit then reduce engine speed to just an idle and see if the oil pressure drops back some. I have seen cubs burry the needle on a cold engine and then it drops back to half or so once warm. If you have a gauge handy that would be the easiest place to start and then you would have an accurate number to read out pressure.
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