Farmall Super A, AV, 1939 - 1954
Moderator: Team Cub
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12 posts • Page 1 of 1
Good evening to everyone. I am a new member here and really like the layout of this site. I have a Super A farmall that I plan on totally restoring (except the engine internals. They are very good at this time) this next year. I was really needing to replace bearings in the transmission as it had a terrible vibaration as well as a lout racket while in gear pulling implements. Hit the clutch and it stops. The noise is in the transmission area. I wanted to get this fixed first. I also have to replace the right rim as it has rusted through and is useless now. I plan on taking pictures and posting all the pertinent information on here such as part numbers and cross referenced with NAPA, Oreilly's etc as well as prices paid for the ease of others who have needed a tutorial and like me have been unable to locate anything. The IT manuals just don't cover enough to help much. I will be posting those pics. I have already had one accident that could have resulted in serious damage and injury to myself if not for taking a precaution. I have a picture of it too.
As for the pictures, I will be taking quit a few. Is there a photo album section that I could post all of them as I proceed? That way I could only post a pertinent one or two on the main forum post. Any hints will be greatly appreciated. Looking forward to new friendships as well as increased knowledge.
HELLO! And welcome! Although most folks here have Cubs, there are many (like me) who have both multiple cubs and other tractors as well. In fact, I have a '48 SA that I just finished restoring this past summer (everything except the transmission and engine). There are a couple others who are either working on theirs or have just finished, so they will probably chime in. You are right about the Service Manuals...I bought both the IH one from Binders, and the I&T one. But between the two of them and the parts manual (also from Binders Books), I was able to figure most things out. For the things I couldn't, I came here. The great thing about this forum is that there is SO much knowledge, and if no one knows the answer to a question, there is usually someone who is determined enough to dig it out from even obscure sources.
Rudi should be along to officially welcome you and give you some forum info. He has done a lot, along with MANY others, to provide manuals (see the top of the page) as well as How To's, etc. They are well worth going through, because the Cub and SA are so similar.
If you have questions, ask. If you need parts, post in the wanted ads. If you need more or new parts, check out the forum sponsors. There are already some cross references for most seals, bearings, gaskets, etc...if you can't find the lists, just ask and someone will know where they are!! Also, most of us have found plain old NAPA to be a good source for those seals and bearings.
Again, welcome and be sure to attend a Cubfest in the near future. In fact, according to your zip code, you are right down the road from a couple of the best ones (OK, 4.5 hours!!!) Check them out under the Board Index http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=66680
There is a How To for posting photos on the forum using the Photo Host (above to the far right), or you can use something like Photobucket. If you can't figure it out, guess what...just ask!
Have fun and post some photos!!!!
Thanks BD. I am still trying to find a picture of the tractor when I bought it. I was in the process of posting my break down of the front half from the back half with pics and lost the entire post due to a internet explorer stopped working bug. Will try again later. Anyone know the cross reference number for the rear mainshaft bearing? The one I got was wrong. Everything else is correct.
Some pictures of the progress so far.
First I drove wooden 4x4 wedges in the front end to prevent the engine from tilting once the front and rear halves are seperated.
Next I attached an engine hoist to the rear of the clutch housing with a good chain.
I then removed the brake pedal cover plate. The 3 bolts that go through the floor pan had to be cut due to rusted nuts. There are 2 others on the front of the cover and this is the right hand bolt.
Next the rear hydraulic lift link rod is removed.
The left brake linkage is disconnected.
Normally you would disconnect the rear light wire, but mine is long gone.
Support the rear half very carefully. Points of support should be the transmission, the rear tow bar, and the righthand final drive.
What was the number on the old bearing? I havn't been into one of them in a long time. Maybe someone else has and can comment on the correct bearing. Dale, you changed some seals, did you touch any bearings? How about Boss Hog or Al?
The inboard footrest bolt must be removed to separate the left hand brake from the floorpan.
All that is left to do is remove the 4 clutch housing to transmission bolts and gradually work the two halves apart. The drive shaft comes out and reveals the clutch drive shaft joint. The 4 bolts are tapered and have rubber washers on both sides of the joint plate. My washers were worn so thin that there was an easy 1/4" to 1/2" of play between the shaft and the yoke.
This is my security team hard at it. Later on when I had my near brush with disaster, they were very good at leading a fast exit from the shop!
For those who have not noticed, I return every bolt and nut into its respective place once the parts are disassembled. That way I never wonder which bolt goes where.
This is the method I used for removing the mainshaft yoke.
Once I got the yoke off, I found it had a significant groove worn in it from the loose bearing. All 4 bearings had at least 1/4" of lateral play in them. No wonder it had a vibration and noise in 4. The gears all look good except for the rear oil slinger which has a little wear on the front and back edges of the teeth and has one tooth missing.
Next I removed the front countershaft bearing cage retainer revealing this bolt backed out with the stripped threads shown. I hope the internal threads on the countershaft can be cleaned up with a tap. And yes, that backed out bolt had worn a pretty serious depression in the retainer plate.
Finally, the worst trouble I have had yet (actually the only problem I have had yet) was removing this key from the front of the mainshaft. It was really in there.
It is now that I find that I have to remove the final drives then the differential bearing retainers and differential to gain access to remove the countershaft. I planned to totally restore the tractor next year, but looks like I will be moving my schedule up some. After removing the key, the front mainshaft bearing came right off.
Next I removed the bolts holding the rear belt pully drive housing and remove the PTO drive shaft. And don't forget the gasket.
There is a roundhead rivet 2 1/4" x 3/16" that holds the reverse gear on the mainshaft. I ground the staked end off and drove it out the bottom.
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
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