Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
you've removed the front pulley and the engine cover plus all else involved, The way I see it hardest parts done and the rest should be a breeze.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
It probably does not help much, but I have a neighbor that is waiting for me to get some room in my shop to fix the same problem on his cub.
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government
to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the
government lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." Patrick Henry
Now for some different news. My last overhaul involved a machine shop oversight in not replacing the oil galley plugs (that's another story). Repair involved removal of the cam gear, installing the galley plug and replacing the cam gear. I do NOT know how they removed it, however, I was there to see how they reinstalled it. They had a little burner set-up that heated the gear to he point that it just dropped on the end of the camshaft. The engine has had no problems since and this one is on my "Hot Rod" that turns 24-2600 RPM. So maybe another approach
Thanks for all the great advice. I took bits and pieces of it it and came up with a solution. First I drilled and taped the old gear used a puller to pull it. I drilled and tapped the end of the cam to 5/16NC. Then started the gear and heated it up, I don't have a good torch so I used a propane with map gas, It didn't get it cherry red but did get hot. I used a bolt and washers and to press the gear back on. The cam shaft sticks out just pass the gear so I used a longer bolt and socket larger than the shaft and finished pressing the gear in place. After installing the oil pan I wish I would have split the engine just to put the 3 bolts in the rear of the pan. Now I have to touch up my bolts and finish installing the front. Next to rebuilt the pump and cross my fingers that it doesn't happen again or GP will be sold as parts!!!
When heating objects, I do not do it anymore without my infrared, laser guided hand held thermometer. It's ease of use and fast readout makes it a snap to know the temperature of an object.
the sollution you came up worked ok but there is one problem. by driling and taping the end of the came shaft makes it a weak point. . the cam gear drives the hyd pump. This will be a braking point under a heavy hydraulic load. May last forever, may not.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
450* is the max you should heat interference fits up, red hot would be badddddd. i see your logic that the "hotter it get it the more it expands" but it is not so, it will start expanding inward toward the center and actually make the hole SMALLER. you want to put heat to the outside to get the outside to expand and draw the inside hole open with it. i looked in my IH service manual since i last posted and it says to soak the gear in boiling water then slip it on.
Who is online