Hydraulics modification

[ScottyD'sdad]

Bod a double sheve crankshaft pulley would be a great drive point. (found on some combine power units). Ed

You have one for me?
No. Ed

[ScottyD'sdad]

Have you considered mounting it to the front bolster and driving it through the crank hole, directly off the crankshaft?

This is how many loader hydraulic pumps are hooked up. Old ford and Fergusons with aftermarket loaders, were done this way. My IH 444 has a front pump. Ed

[tractordad]

Have you considered mounting it to the front bolster and driving it through the crank hole, directly off the crankshaft?

This is how many loader hydraulic pumps are hooked up. Old ford and Fergusons with aftermarket loaders, were done this way. My IH 444 has a front pump. Ed

We owned a TO35 with a Lord loader on it. It had the shaft that went through to the front pulley to drive the hyd pump however the end of the shaft "keyed" to fit in the end of the crank pulley tightly and centered. I don't know what is available to be able to do that with a cub. I'd be a bit concerned with a shaft that could be a bit off center or loose whipping around. I'm also concerned as to what's out there to support the pump on.

[ScottyD'sdad]

Have you considered mounting it to the front bolster and driving it through the crank hole, directly off the crankshaft?

This is how many loader hydraulic pumps are hooked up. Old ford and Fergusons with aftermarket loaders, were done this way. My IH 444 has a front pump. Ed

We owned a TO35 with a Lord loader on it. It had the shaft that went through to the front pulley to drive the hyd pump however the end of the shaft "keyed" to fit in the end of the crank pulley tightly and centered. I don't know what is available to be able to do that with a cub. I'd be a bit concerned with a shaft that could be a bit off center or loose whipping around. I'm also concerned as to what's out there to support the pump on.

I think a shaft, long enough to reach the center hole on the crankshaft would center well enough. A cross pin would drive it, from the crank pin catch points. A bracket could be fabricated to attach to radiator mount bolts on top and the axle pivot bolt on the bottom. Bob is quite a crafty varmint, although I wouldn't admit to saying that! Ed

[tractordad]

Bob,

Another few options. First would be to move your voltage regulator and coil and mount a small pump under the generator. I think the coil needs to move to get the lines though. This is assuming you just need a small pump and can use a bypass block with the existing hydraulic system. My second thought would be to remove the entire air filter assembly. You would need to put a small clamp style air filter directly on your carb. You'll then have a vast amount of room under the hood, plenty of mounting points, and may be able to use the existing hole in the hood for a fill point on a pump with a tank.

[Jim Becker]

I suppose you could find one of the old generators with a power steering pump attached to the back end.

If you have done a 12-volt conversion and used an alternator with fairly high output, the electric pump is probably the simplest way, may be as cost effective as anything too.

[Bob Perry]

Thanks for all the stimulating conversation !

I have a 12 v hydraulic pump/reservoir/remote switch etc. which came with my dump-trailer. I once separated it from the trailer and made a portable "power-pack" with quick-connects which can be very useful. (Actually at some point I put it back on the trailer, in the box where the manufacturer had it originally.) But very soon, it's coming off again, and the new "power-pack" Version 2.0 will be a bit more attractive, and the battery will be separate from it. (Version 1.0 included the battery, and that made it kind of heavy). One day you can dump the trailer, another day you operate a hoist on your truck, etc. And it can share the winch's battery.

I have a couple other hyd. pumps whose days of sitting on a shelf are nearly over ... and I believe one's going on a Cub...