A question about finals...UPDATE

[clodhopper]

I dropped the pan on my left final to do a fluid change, and found the fluid in good condition. No milky mess like the tranny. I did find a few small bits of metal flakes, nothing major. I do see, however, that the final drive axle (to the wheel centers) has some end play. If I move the wheels side to side, I can see movement at the right rear shaft end where the planter drive sprocket bolts on. Since the bearings are pressed on conicals, and there is a preload setting, should I be seeing this movement, or am I all worried about nothing?

[Boss Hog]

Should be no play there, the filings are most likely from the bearing

[clodhopper]

Should be no play there, the filings are most likely from the bearing

Thats what I was afraid of....

[mrfarmboy87]

If i remember correctly it should take about 22 in lbs to rotate the axle(with wheel off and diffrential shaft not meshed), id say if you dont have at least that much resistance you need new bearings

[clodhopper]

If i remember correctly it should take about 22 in lbs to rotate the axle(with wheel off and diffrential shaft not meshed), id say if you dont have at least that much resistance you need new bearings

I have to remove the wheel to put new rims on (Calcium Chloride destroyed) , so I guess Ill be into the finals from there...

[clodhopper]

Is it feasable to replace the bearings with the final installed, or am I looking at removing it to replace the bearings?

[Boss Hog]

I have did it, how ever I would not recommend you doing it. It is best to press the axle out.
I will leave it at that. Most likely you need to remove it to replace the Axle seal in the transmission and outer one behind the brake drum any way.

[Dale Finch]

Boss is right...I had to use a press on my SA's final, and DEFINITELY do all seals and gaskets while you have it off. The one differential seal I forgot to do during my restoration leaked and I had to remove a freshly painted final to do it!!

[JackF]

I agree if you have the final drive apart; replace all seals and if needed bearings .I have two tractors that are leaking final drive fluid now that wasn’t leaking before. I had the final drives apart down to that outer bearing and didn’t remove the bearing to replace the seal. Now it has to be done on freshly painted final drives.

Another thing I seem to mess up on is adding shims for less axle end – play clearance. Remember remove shims for less axle end – play clearance. Many Cub final drives (at least the ones I’ve worked on) have too much axle end – play clearance and causes the outer seal to wear and leak.

I always make the axle end – play clearance on the minimum side mostly because of the low turning speed of the bearing and a working tractor axle takes a lot of abuse.

[RaymondDurban]

Check out this link. As Boss said above, there should be no movement, on the axle or the bull gear once everything is tightened up.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... -07-07.jpg

[clodhopper]

Thanks for all the replies! I am trying to figure out what I can do now. I have to fix this, but I also have a nasty 2nd gear whine, and once I am in the finals, that would be a great time to pull and rework the tranny...where does it end?... I might just close it back up and wait for a better time to do the whole rear end and be done with it. I just dont see it happening this winter...

[Matt Kirsch]

I have to say it:

Is that your FINAL answer?

[clodhopper]

I have to say it:

Is that your FINAL answer?

[clodhopper]

Pulled the final today, cause I just couldnt help myself... This is the first thing I found.

Its ugly, but it is through the housing and looks solid. Is this worth repairing, or is it a boat anchor? I am using this for plowing, cultivating....but I dont see any tree stumps in her future....
BTW, the bearings are worn completely out.

[tst]

You would be better off starting out with a good used final not welded up
Tim