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Followed the advice from you guys on the prep of my hood/tank. Stripped it all down, spent some time doing several coats of bondo on a couple of dings. Several coats of high build primer. A few minor places to spot putty tomorrow. Will then do a 320 grit sanding of all prior to top coat.
Will rattle can for the finish. Was sent on using Iron Guard, a alkrilic enamel but was doing some reading here and wondering if thats what I really want to use. Will spilt gas hurt this down the road? And reading you cant sand between coats or after final coal. Is the a urathane paint you can use in a spray can? Would that be tougher than enamel paint. Thanks as usual guys.
if you spill gas on paint without hardener it will usually lift the paint. i would not sand in between coats.
The enamel folks use is NOT rattle can paint. It is either the automotive enamel you have mixed (PPG, Dupont, etc), or the Farm Tractor Enamel found at most Home & Farm Stores (Valspar, Majic, Iron Guard, etc). Both paints use a hardener and that helps it hold up really well as well as gives it a nice gloss. IMO at least.
320 grit is ok but I always work my way up to atleast 600 grit or you will see the sanding marks in the paint. wouldnt wast my time using rattle can paint or iron guard. especially after all the prep work. May as well brush paint it.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
I'm a urethane guy, but if you must use cheap, China made, good enough for deck chair, probably has lead in it, enamel, a hardener will make is less likely to lift later. Rattle cans have a narrow span and low pressure so it's very hard to get a nice flow. I've never seen it done well on a large area like a hood, but I've only been looking for 25 years. Though I have seen higher pressure spray cans used with a nice result for black chrome trim and stuff like that.
Well is there a urethane paint out there offered in a spray can in Farmall red? Unfortunately a spray can finish is all I can do. I've done a little reading about one and two parts urethane paint in spray cans. Just trying to get a tuff lasting paint job.
there is a spray bomb out there that has a button on it that you push to release the hardener but you would have to call around to auto body supply stores to find out if they carry it, then they could custom mix some paint and fill the can for you. if all your doing is the taink it might be worth it for you to let a shop paint the tank for you. and if you do paint it yourself, wear the proper equipment, that stuff can make you sick.
Stop at an auto-body paint store and ask questions. They will put stuff in cans, but I don't know what kinds.
Got my problem solved. We have a good size auto body supply place here. Talked with them and the can put urethane paint in a spray can. 18 bucks a can but that fair I think. This has to be clear coated and they fixed me up with that also. Feel a lot better getting away from enaamel. Thanks guys.
Used rattle can F & F Valspar 7 years ago - still looks good except for where I scraped it w/an umbrella bracket! Looks better than one that was sprayed w/hardener! I'm not a pro but know how I'll do mine from here on out. Main thing is to have a good base primer. Just my 2 cents worth! Dusty B
Grandpa's '41 B
'51 Super C
'55 Case SC
Fairbanks-Morse 3KW Generator
Dad's DB garden tractor
'31 "A Coupe
'51 Ford PU
'55 Dodge PU
God looks out for those of us who don't know how to look out for ourselves!
I usually have a 'body guy' do my hoods.....gets them out of the way while I work on the tractor. I don't know if the painter added anything to my Lo Boy's hood paint, but he shot it with Iron Guard and it hasn't had a problem with fuel (but I am careful).
A coat or two of wax after the paint cures can't hurt either.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
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