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Although i havent ever considered doing this or wanted to, a friend asked me about this the other day. Just thought i would pass this question on to you guys for your suggestions and comments and experiences. I told him I'd follow up this weekend.
What is the best way to add a three point lift to a Farmall Cub?
There were kits for both fast hitch tractors and non fast hitch I believe. I don't think it was ever a good idea/setup IMO. I believe there have been some discussions on this about the weight being too much for the cubs hydraulics for most implements, not to mention the pto is wrong direction and too fast for anything pto driven. It would be ok I guess for a York rake. Still wouldn't justify the setup worth while.
You can purchase a 3pt hitch kit for a Cub through "Worksaver Manufacturing." It ain't cheap, and like Chris says, it has limited usefulness.
It's a Category 0 hitch and with the PTO issues you're pretty much relegated to york rakes, back blades, box scrapers, and middle busters. IMHO these hitches aren't any good for plowing due to lack of depth control or draft control.
About the only thing I use mine for is when I need to use my rear blade or the forks.
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Very nice pictures Barnyard! Thanks for the input and responses guys. I presume the guy doesn't have a Fast Hitch, and I'm sure that'll spark a whole nother conversation! I'll be able to handle that though since it's a factory option and a widely used one.
Only way to go, but they are very expensive and rare!!
Maybe I'm going crazy, but I didn't see a link of KubKraft for a 3pt hitch.
You did not see one. Rick built some in 2005 I think. There is lots of time and material that goes into one. But they are the greatest. Unless you have lots of fast hitch implements. I would advise selling all them and the fast hitch and modernizing your Cub. But it want be original anymore but mines not anyway. http://picasaweb.google.com/jamhudson/3 ... 8Z46BBXGa8
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Make your own 3-pt as I did!! makes a whole new tractor out of a cub!----I also made a half dozen imps. to match the tractors abilities. ---wouldnt be without them!---hitch cost biggest expense is the 2 pull arms and top link!--the rest can be made real cheeeeepo!! thanks; sonny
Thanks Dan, and you are correct. I only built a few and things turned out way too expensive to make any to sell on a regular basis. Mine had it's own cylinder for lifting and a float kit in the control valve to let the rear implements follow the ground(up pressure/down pressure/float). I still have one mounted on the back of my 48 snowplow cub and use the 3 point for either the rear scraper(winter) or the landscape rake(summer). I also use it for the sod cutter or sub soiler or any other implement I need to move around. I used to have a box blade, but sold it to the neighbor once the backhoe/loader cub was finished. Jim Hudson and Sunday Sailor ended up with the full hydraulic 3 point version. I have some scattered pics in the photohost
Mine you could still run a mowing deck or use the factory hitch mounted in place. Worksaver you can't use anything to my knowledge.
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I think there are many considerations to think about, depending on why somebody wants a different hitch.
I'm in the process of fabricating a hitch right now, actually. I want to use implements that don't fit with the Cub's mounting system (such as various rear cultivating tools, tine weeder, bed preparer, etc), and I want to be able to adjust things easily. And I want to be able to change implements quickly with pins, not bolts or clamps, since there can be a number of implement switches over the course of a day of farming.
Using pins means there's no longer a solid connection between the implement and hitch (like a fast hitch point, or clamps, or the Cub 6's toolbar welded to the arms), so the implement spins on the two lower link pins, requiring the third point (toplink) to keep the implement level. Also the toplink can adjust the pitch of the implement, and since the hitch can be a parallel-ish linkage, the angle of the implement relative to the ground doesn't change much when it's raised or lowered. A solid connection between implement and hitch means the implement raises in an arc, which is less useful. I'm designing mine with lower link arms that extend under the tractor (similar to the Cub 6's), so that the hydraulic system gets better leverage when lifting something. That makes it less of a parallel linkage, but not too far off where it counts.
A fast hitch has many of these functions, but I can't make one, and you can't straddle a row of crops with a fast hitch.
I didn't start out to create a modern 3-pt hitch, just a hitch happens to have 3 points, because that makes it useful to me. It may or may not be able to accept modern 3-pt implements, because their spacing isn't what fits the Cub, and my lower link arms are prevented from swinging side-to-side, which makes it hard to move the arm over to slip the ball over the pin! I'm using a different pin setup.
I'm also fabricating some belly-mounted implements which will also use a three-point mounting setup, for the same reasons.
I think there are few modern implements that would suit a Cub, even with a modern 3-pt hitch, but that there are lots of reasons to figure out a better hitch system for the Cub.
Barnyard, I appreciate your pictures! I hadn't thought to build a new rockshaft, too, but doing it like the fast hitch like you did makes a lot of sense.
How useful a 3 point hitch would be depends on the user. I made something I called the 1 hour 3 point hitch since it took around an hour to make. Useful for me, boom pole and middle buster type thing, but may not be a fit for everyone.
My three point conversion was made from a two point fast hitch converted to a point fast hitch. The problem was the weight of the hitch itself plus the weight of the implement plus sitting too far back cause the front end to come of the ground. It wouldn't lift my heavy dearborn back blade and even with the york rake I had to take the gauge wheels off. Luckly I have other tractor for my 3pt needs. If you can keep your three point arms as close as possible to the tractor without the implement hitting the back tire would probably be best and something to consider.
15 posts • Page 1 of 1
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