Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:04 pm
I have been having oil leaking out from the housing where the brakes are, on the right hand side. I am assuming that it is a seal. Could it be a seal by the differential?
How hard is that to replace? I would like to tackle this myself. Any help is appreciated.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:09 pm
Welcome to the Forum!
More than likely, it's the seal on the side of the transmission, and the oil is running out to the final before you see it. Before you tear into things, check the fluid level in the transmission, and it you haven't changed it anytime recently, now is probably the time.
If you do need to change the seal, it's not too bad of a job. Remember to wedge the front axle before attempting to remove anything from the rear of the tractor.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:59 pm
So would I just unbolt the whole assembly at the transmission case or does the final drive need to come off first?
Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:08 pm
Check the fluid level in the transmission first. Over full will leak out the seals.
Remove the entire assembly, no need to remove the final drives. Just remove the wheel and rims first. If you are in reasonable decent physical shape you should be able to remove and replace the entire assembly by hand. A shop crane makes the lift much easier.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:10 pm
You will need to take off any attachment that is bolted to the final (drawbar, fast-hitch, cultivators, etc..).
Then the fender comes off, then the seat, battery box, tool box and disconnect the brake rod.
Then wedge the front axle, then jack up the rear end and remove the wheel/tire.
The platform has to be un-bolted from the axle extension and transmission case, but doesn't have to be completely removed from the brake and clutch pedals.
Remove the final first, then the axle extension. You'll have to reposition your jack/cribbing in this phase, so be careful!!
Now you'll have access to the seal. Use a standard seal puller to remove the old one, then install the new one.
Going back together will be in reverse order.
When you get the final and axle extension off, you'll be able to clean out the oil, dirt and mice nests that seem to accumulate in these parts. Also, you'll be able to evaluate the brake and drum for that side.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:31 pm
Taking off the seat can be a bear. If the the bolts are not budging try hitting them with a good penetrant for a few days. I am going to third the fluid level check. That seal handles splash but not high levels and high levels happen frequently with water intrusion down the shifter. Most of us have had the eye-opening experience of draining a milkshake out of the transmission on the first "new" tractor fluid change. If the water drives the level up above the seal it is going to leak no matter how good the seal. On the left side of the transmission there is a small plug that serves as the level indicator.
I you get to the point of pulling the extension, I clean it with a wire brush and extension for ducts and then I paint it with Glyptal to seal it . ( yeah, I am a little over the top) If you replace any bolts that go into the extension, make sure they are the exact length. If they are too long, eventually the protruding threads rust and they will be snappers for sure the next time.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:02 pm
Thanks for the advice. I'm sure that I will be asking more questions.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:41 pm
I did the loboy by myself by pulling the RH extension tube and final in one piece after unbolting everything I could get off in little pieces.
Check the lube holes in the seal retainer to make sure they are clear - they were plugged on the loboy so the seal and bearing were starved for lube.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 7:56 pm
We have another member in Zillah. Ed (EBAX). I think there may be a mini-fest in the offing.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:32 pm
After struggling with rusted bolts and nuts over the years and, yes, twisting off a few along the way, I do not do any reassembly work now without using anti-seize on all bolts and nuts. You will become a believer in this stuff after spending time struggling with those dry, rusted, stubborn battery box, tool box, and seat bolts. I may never have to disassemble the tractor again in my lifetime, but I am sure the next owner will appreciate the added touch.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:36 pm
When you replace the seal...what else gets replaced.I never have done this and will be in the next few weeks. Does TM have the seal/looked but got overwhelmed.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:43 pm
TM does have the seal: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm
As far as what else gets changed, depends on your brake condition. While I had things this far apart, I'd go ahead and pull the left final as well and change the seal on the other side.
Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:47 pm
When you re-assemble it put the axle extension on the finial first. Grease the seal and the end of the axle, Take care not to damage the seal when assembling. This is done best with 2 people
Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:48 pm
would be a good Idea to replace the outer seal too
Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:21 pm
Boss Hog wrote:would be a good Idea to replace the outer seal too
I have the Cub done to bare bones. Torque tube,transmission and finals. I need to remove the short tube and final and see. What is the outer seal? The seal Raymond pointed me to is called the inner seal.
What should be done to refurbish the finals...gaskets seals? Repacking bearings? Never done this, although I had a minifest and Ed and one of my friends swapped out a final drive...I didn't have much time to watch as I was doing other things.
Just basically wondering about all the things to do when you've got the rear end of the tractor apart...
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