rear seal leaking

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Re: rear seal leaking

Postby RaymondDurban » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:39 pm

The outer seal that Boss is referring to is behind the brake drum, on the final itself.

If you are going to tear into the final, then you are of course gonna need additional items. The right final takes 3 seals, and the left takes 2. You'll also need a press to get the axle apart and out of the final itself as its pressed in. You'll need a bearing separator to get the outer bearing off each axle, so that you can get to and change the outer seal. Its a bit of work, but not too bad. Easily a Saturday project.
If you choose to change the bearings in the final, that is where it will get expensive. Remember to change the cone as well.
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Re: rear seal leaking

Postby bob in CT » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:42 pm

There is a seal in the transmission and another in the top of the final where the brake drum is. No re-packing. the bearings are lubed with oil. it is nice to have a press if you want to pull the lower axle out and replace the seals where the wheel bolts on. Take a look at the parts diagram. Up to you how far you want to go. I usually take them all apart so I know what I have especially if I am painting. Sure would hate to have leaks later.
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Re: rear seal leaking

Postby CapeCodCubs » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:50 pm

Thanks for the tips! Hope these responses are helping he poster of this thread, too
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Re: rear seal leaking

Postby Boss Hog » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:52 pm

The 2 top seals are cheap, I would not go to the trouble to change an inner axle seal without changing the outer.
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Re: rear seal leaking

Postby ntrenn » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:10 am

challenger wrote:After struggling with rusted bolts and nuts over the years and, yes, twisting off a few along the way, I do not do any reassembly work now without using anti-seize on all bolts and nuts. You will become a believer in this stuff after spending time struggling with those dry, rusted, stubborn battery box, tool box, and seat bolts. I may never have to disassemble the tractor again in my lifetime, but I am sure the next owner will appreciate the added touch.


I have a little 4 ounce medicine bottle of the stuff that I've been living off of for 20 years. Nothing gets put back together at my place without it.

If your final is not leaking, I would leave it alone. It would be best to reseal the pans though. Aircraft gasket sealer or indian head gasket shellac does wonders on those cork gaskets. The loboy had about 1/2 quart of oil total in the finals -one had about 2 ounces in it. They are full now.....
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Re: rear seal leaking

Postby DuaneFriend » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:22 am

I am learning alot from these posts. Can the outer seal be replaced without pulling the upper axle out? I think that this may have been mentioned already, but if I am changing the seals on one side, should I also change out the seals on the other side?
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Re: rear seal leaking

Postby ntrenn » Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:34 pm

No - outer diff seals require removal of the shaft.
Makes sense to change both sides at the same time, but if you go that far, I would suggest you pull the retainers and change them on the bench. I don't have a photo of it, but there is a lube hole in the retainer that was plugged on mine.

10681/450043/480043ssr is the diff seal cross reference I have. Rockauto was only about $5 a seal
471419 is the cross reference I have for the outer diff seal. Still about $5 at RA...
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