Farmall Cub Forum
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by AL Farmall Boy » Sun Feb 03, 2013 1:13 am
seeing that people ASK anywhere from $800 to $1,200 for stuck, parts Tractor Cubs around here; I'd say that it's a safe buy. Of course you need to check it out, and talk to the seller in person about the work done. Also, the fact he is delivering it to you might mean he is desperate to sell for whatever resaon, good or bad.
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by Donegal Cub » Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:31 am
The quickest opinion I can give you is. If it sounds too good to be true!! IT IS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE!!!. However You may have come across a seller thats needs cash fast. So go look drive and test. If its checks put it on your trailer. OLD SAYING "Never buy a pig in a poke" is also good advice. Donegal Cub. 
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by JackF » Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:55 am
I agree with what Donegal Cub wrote; OLD SAYING "Never buy a pig in a poke"
My Grandfather always said that…..he was from Ireland ….
I’m really good at doing nothing…With that said…I’m really, really good at doing nothing
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by Buzzard Wing » Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:31 am
Every Cub I have bought is a 'pig in a poke'. That pretty much goes with anything used, unless you know the history of it. Mostly I have made out very well. A running Cub that's got no obvious problems is a deal at a grand. I am afraid to total what my latest adventure has cost me..... but it's got good compression, now.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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by Dale Shaw » Mon Feb 04, 2013 1:49 am
I look at every cub as a parts tractor when considering a purchase, as far as value. Here is my equasion:
Asking price ($1000 for example sake) (Prices lower than actual value)
then start adding:
decent rear rims with decent rear tires and centers= $300 rear weights=$75 carburator=$100 drawbar with brackets=$100 finals with good bolt holes 2@$100=$200 PTO that feels good=$50 good hood=$125 front wheels=$50
equals $1000 buy it. everything else is gravy. Now when you get it home you can decide weather it will be a good worker or restoration candidate, but if too much is wrong with it, you still have your value in parts.
This is why I cringe when told a "parts cub" is only worth $500 or less, unless it is obviously mostly broken and worthless.
Just my $.02
Dale Shaw TN Cub Rescue- Out of the Hedgerows and Barns, and back into the Fields and Gardens where they belong. Today's generation is so used to getting everything IN a box, they can't think OUTSIDE the box
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by Super A » Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:24 am
Buzzard Wing wrote:Every Cub I have bought is a 'pig in a poke'. .
Ain't that the truth! Every old tractor I have ever bought has been a bag full of surprises! Even if it checks out good you can bet you'll find some issue when you get it home. If it runs to your satisfaction, buy it. As Dale pointed out, you can make your money back selling parts if you're patient. Al
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by Dale Shaw » Mon Feb 04, 2013 9:58 am
Super A wrote:If it runs to your satisfaction, buy it. As Dale pointed out, you can make your money back selling parts if you're patient.
I did not intend for my post to sound as if I buy every cub to part it out. I generally DO NOT part them out if they are a good functioning cub. ONLY if the needed repairs I find would cost more than the value of the cub. My goal is to rescue them and put them back into the field. I just use my equation to determine value/cost when purchasing. Dale
Dale Shaw TN Cub Rescue- Out of the Hedgerows and Barns, and back into the Fields and Gardens where they belong. Today's generation is so used to getting everything IN a box, they can't think OUTSIDE the box
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by JackF » Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:35 am
Dale Shaw wrote:My goal is to rescue them and put them back into the field.
Me too, but my problem is after I put all the work in them and get them just like new I don’t want to use them …so, they just set in storage and get started and drove sometimes.
I’m really good at doing nothing…With that said…I’m really, really good at doing nothing
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by Buzzard Wing » Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:25 pm
Yep, Super A... I am one with the 'mushroom theory'. But, of all the Cubs I have bought I only regret one, but it makes a nice stand to hold a hood till I am ready for it. It's one of the first yeller 12V ones, with a lot of good parts. I did knock one in the head, but used Dale's logic. It came with a 1000 loader  and the rest of the parts are spread over creation. I did use a hub off it recently.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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