Jumping in head first with my first Cub

Gumby, are the bulbs good. Were they converted to 12 volt also. If not they may have blown due to too much voltage. The ground wouldn't matter whether it was pos or neg.
 
Likely a grounding problem. Until just before they were 12V from the factory (early 60s's) they only used one wire to the fixture, so anything between the ground at the battery and the light bulb could cause a problem. Things like well painted light posts or corrosion will trip you up.

Also the fuse in the dash is for the lighting system.
 
Another problem. I don't think the guy converted the 6 volt coil whenever he switched it over to 12 volts. What coil is recommended for a 12 volt system? It runs for a few minutes and cuts off. I can restart it immediately. Its not a gas problem but its acting like I turn off the switch whenever it shirts off.. I am guessing that coil is on its way out due not being able to with stand the other 12 volts that its not designed to withstand. Will any 12 volt coil work?
 
Before I heard of this forum, I converted my low-boy to 12 V....Made the brackets, got the old GM alternator,rewired the cub etc etc....My problem was the coil....I couldn't find any parts supplier that knew about internal or external resistance coils especially TSC....After much trial and error, I finally just got a voltage reducer and went from 12 to 6 for the coil...It has served me fine...I also replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter gauge....Had I have known about this forum at the time I would have saved myself a lot of frustration...I'm not recommending, just telling you what worked for me...Maybe you've got a voltage reducer in line their somewhere....
 
Gumby":3hbm7gdk said:
It runs for a few minutes and cuts off. I can restart it immediately.
Could be and probably is a low fuel supply issue. Remove the plug from the side of the carburetor and with a container catch the draining gasoline. Watch the fuel flow for 60 seconds. There will be a sudden gush of gasoline, your want to see a decent stream of gasoline draining out for the full 60 seconds.

If it were an ignition issue, tractor wouldn't immediately start right back up.

Gumby":3hbm7gdk said:
What coil is recommended for a 12 volt system?
Eugene":3hbm7gdk said:
Coil. If you use a 6 volt coil or a 12 volt coil with out internal resistor - you need the Chrysler ballast resistor. Cheap at auto parts store. Usually under $5-. If your used coil contains the internal resistor, then you do not need the Chrysler ballast resistor.
 
Other filter cross references I've found are C235(fram) and 51153 (Wix). IH dealer by me is cheaper than the car stores with whatever they stock.

Oil pans don't mind body hammer work. I prefer the cork gasket (I've been warned against using RTV by my local pro mechanic) and use Aviation Gasket Sealer -

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... d=aviation

Best gasket glue I've ever used.

Also have been able to get past the bell housing with 1/4 drive socket and wobble extension. Takes talented fingers to start the bolts, though.
 
Im going to take a few pictures of the charging system in a little bit and you all can tell me what I have.
 
Usually a 12V coil will say something about internal resistance. I ran the12V Lo Boy a long time with a 6V coil (the old style) and the only time it was a problem was on real hot days. I have a 12V coil on it now.
 
Yup to what Larry said. Ballast resistors were common on Chrysler products in the 60's and are the ones most commonly seen when using a 6v coil with a 12v conversion. I would leave that original coil as it is. If you decide to return it to the original 6v all you will have to do is remove the alternator, remove the ballast resistor and change over the bulbs to 1133's instead of 1144's.
 
I just changed my oil pan gasket the other day but that doesn't seem to have been my problem. I think it's my crankcase breather drips oil on the side of the motor and then runs down onto the oil pan. Is that normal?
 
Gumby":16maag8t said:
I bought brand new bulbs.
Just to make sure, check the resistance on the new bulbs to make sure they measure around 1 ohm.
You can also use some wire and connect them across the leads of your battery (polarity doesn't matter).
If you can get them to light, you probably have a grounding problem from the lamp housing (where the bulb gets it's ground) to the ground terminal on the battery...check the resistance from the lamp housing to the ground terminal on the battery.
 
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