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Splitting The Cub

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thiggy
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Splitting The Cub

Postby thiggy » Fri Feb 22, 2013 8:22 am

I am to the point now of splitting my tractor in order to replace my broken 1st/reverse gear - battery case, floorboard and seat removed for easier access. I looked through the CBoK and was unable to locate any discussion about how to properly support the sections when splitting. I am positive that I have seen one or more illustrations of how other folks have made supports, but I sure didn't find them. Could someone direct me to where this has been previously discussed? (By the way, I thought that I had posted this question yesterday, but cannot even find my posting. I must be losing my mind!!) Thanks
Since retirement, the things I miss most are the holidays!

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Mike in Louisiana
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby Mike in Louisiana » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:03 am

Check out the how to forum. This is just one type. I like the ones that use a trailer jack bolted to a 1/2 in plate.

Back end, overhead hoist, engine hoist or blockek up real good. DON'T FORGET WEDGES FOR FRONT AXLE.

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Last edited by Mike in Louisiana on Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:25 am, edited 2 times in total.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H

Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers

ntrenn
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby ntrenn » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:17 am

I bolted an 1x6 oak leg to each side of the tube. Didn't have a spare boat jack around.

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Bill Hudson
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby Bill Hudson » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:27 am

Check the How To forum under Specialty Tools. LOTS of splitting stands of various levels of sophistication. Hope this helps.
Bill

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thiggy
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Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby thiggy » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:35 am

Well, here is another case of missing post. Just after Mike replied to my query, I created a response and sure thought that I had clicked the "submit" button, but I don't see it anywhere. :?: :?:
Nevertheless, my post was to thank Mike for his reply and pointing me to the "how to " forum. That is where I had previously seen the info. Thanks also for your reply, ntrenn & Bill.
I was pleased to meet you, Mike and especially pleased to try out your famous pineapple upside-down cake at the DSCF. Stanley
Since retirement, the things I miss most are the holidays!

Johnk454
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby Johnk454 » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:36 am

Another variation on the theme:

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For the rear half, I used a jackstand beneath the tranny and another beneath the drawbar. It balances fairly well on the rear tires. As already mentioned, don't forget to block the front axle. Two or three long bolts will help with alignment and support during disassembly and reassembly.

Also, pay close attention to the front seal retainer on the tranny - if installed backwards, the main shaft crawls forward and the PTO doesn't work. :cry: Here's a pic:

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Mike in Louisiana
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby Mike in Louisiana » Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:42 am

thiggy wrote:I was pleased to meet you, Mike and especially pleased to try out your famous pineapple upside-down cake at the DSCF. Stanley


Stanley it was a pleasure meeting you also. Glad you liked the cake.

To bad you did not have the gear on hand, it would have been split and back together in no time.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H

Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers

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Bill V in Md
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby Bill V in Md » Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:54 am

After the tractor is split at the rear, don't depress the clutch pedal. This could cause the clutch disc to slip off center once the input shaft is removed.
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thiggy
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby thiggy » Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:03 pm

Bill V, thanks for your clutch warning. Thinking about it, it is obvious, but I might not have thought about it till too late. Your reminder will help me keep that in mind.
Since retirement, the things I miss most are the holidays!

thiggy
10+ Years
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Posts: 489
Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 2:04 pm
Zip Code: 35216
Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub
1949 Cub
2011 JD X320
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Birmingham Al/Bay Springs Ms.

Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby thiggy » Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:06 pm

John, I especially like your supports because I am not a welder and this looks quite sturdy. Do you know what the size of the rectangular tubing is used there?
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Johnk454
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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby Johnk454 » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:23 pm

thiggy wrote:John, I especially like your supports because I am not a welder and this looks quite sturdy. Do you know what the size of the rectangular tubing is used there?


I think that was 2" x 4" x 1/4" tubing I had cut for a boom pole that my pallet forks could slip into. Ended up using wider tubing for the boom pole. A bit long and definitely overkill, but it was there and unused...

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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby Eugene » Fri Feb 22, 2013 6:59 pm

Any number of methods of supporting a tractor when splitting it.

I use a shop crane/cherry picker over the front of a Cub with a wide heavy duty strap around the engine. Rear end, supports similar to ones previously shown or a large floor jack.

I also have a couple of homemade jack stands with U shaped bracket on top. U shaped bracket holds a 4" x 4". The jack stands with 4 x 4 fits under the torque tube.

A reminder, be sure to wedge the bolster to front axle.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Splitting The Cub

Postby tulalipjames » Fri Feb 22, 2013 7:57 pm

Simplest, cheapest method is to place solid 2x8s from front axle to rear hitch, then place solid 2x4 cross pieces at tube and oil pan. Add blocking as needed. Put a little grease where the 2x4s and 2x8s meet so the 2x4s slide easily when you split the tractor. Fine tune the height of each half with shims between the 2x4s and 2x8s as needed when you put the cub back together. The 2x8's also make handy places to keep tools, parts, and nourishment as you work on the cub.

If you don't have a rear hitch, you could suspend the 2x8s from the rear axles, or support them with cement blocks. Nail a cross-piece that butts against the rear tires for stability if you use cement block support.


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