Help with a Brookfield Buzz Saw

Looking at having to build the saw table or frame assembly for the saw and was hoping that someone that has one may could send me the sizes of the steel and some measurements. Thank you for the help.

There is one for sale on Ebay. Contact the seller and he might give you the measurements you need.

Clint I have one and can get them for you, but don't expect me to get them today, possibly tomorrow or next week. If someone beats me to it, so be it, but I'll try to help you out.

Andy

Andy that would be awesome. i would be grateful for that.
Thank you much
Clint

Clint,

Here is what I was able to come up with. If you have any questions please ask. Don't mind the handwriting, it has always been that bad and the people who read my notes are thankful I use a computer instead of a pen. I put the angles of the two points were the table is welded together. I used my protractor, I was surprised I even had one, but it does have the word tractor in it, but I am no pro in using it.

I don't have the two braces, so I was hoping Barnyard or someone else with one could measure them up and post the actual dimensions for us.

Well, that looks like you know what. I guess you can pm me your email and I can send it to you full size. Rudi was sent a copy via email, so hopefully he sees this and can make it better with his copy.

Let's see : Brookfield Saw Table Dimensions. Yup, right click and save as a .pdf.

Andy
Thank you so much, this will be a huge help. I think i might need 3 or 4 more but that should be it. i know with the angle of the drawing it makes it hard so i found a different one and put the lines were i need to try to make it easier.

Clint will do when I get a chance, I am at work and shouldn't be even on here!

The gap on the table is 5 7/8"

The upright measures 13" and 7 1/2"

The downward angle measures 17 1/2" and 8 5/8"

Maybe if you draw it out on your sketch above, I can re verify that all is correct. Wish I was educated enough to know how to make such a nice looking drawing as you have.

Ok let me know if i have this right Andy.

My bad the 17 should be 17 5/8" and the 8 5/8" should be 8", i need to learn to write better. The 12 1/2" dimension is correct. Maybe you want to do this for all the measurements, but I double checked them twice, so all shall be well. Happy welding.

Clint:

farmallcub49":2frvnb2o said:

Maybe you want to do this for all the measurements, but I double checked them twice, so all shall be well.

Click to expand...

That would be ideal, I am sure many would agree. I am sure there are a few others out there that need to replicate a few parts.

Clint, If that table was made by me today, I'd be changing a couple features to make it a lot safer and user friendly. The first thing I noticed when I used mine was the top handle they created. It's located left of the blade. When cutting a branch or log and you have the log positioned to cut, You have to hold the log tight into the table(with left hand) so it doesn't spin, making your arm right next to the spinning blade as your pushing the table forwards. If the log is longer than a couple feet, it quickly falls off the table to the right side. A guy only has 2 hands :shock: and sometimes you use this thing in your backyard and a bunch of Cubfest guys/gals aren't around to help you.

The table needs to have the handle made on the right side of the table and the left side of the table also needs to be extended a good 6-8 inches to support the cut piece until you're ready to remove it. I noticed on mine that every time you make a cut, the piece falls to the ground and sometimes falls right back into the blade area. After several pieces fall, you have to remove them and then you're grabbing wood right next to the spinning blade. It takes way too much time shutting off the blade to keep the area clear.

That's just some quick changes I'd make. Anyone I've ever seen running that saw quickly switches positions. You start off running the saw grabbing their handle and then after you realize how stupid that is, you switch to pushing the table from the right side, not ever touching their handle again.

I know this is just a small saw and not meant to cut long, big mill size pieces, but just a small improovment would make the Brookfield 10 times safer.

My .02,
Rick

edit: If I were to buy a reproduction table made by someone, I'd much rather buy one revised than an original looking original that doesn't function properly. Anyone that's operated one should agree, maybe.

Those are some very good points Rick. I have never used one or even seen one used in person but have on the computer and your right it seams it takes two to run it so i will get my thinker going and see what i can come up with and let you know to see if you think it will work.

Andy & Rudi i am working on the drawing with the measurements, it will take a little time but i will get it done working on it now.

Ok i have the drawings done, took bout half a day but hope it will make it easy for the next person. Would like for Andy to go over the measurements one more time to make sure all is right. Pics used are from TM

Clint,

That looks super. The only thing I see missing is the 12 1/2" bed depth dimension. Rick brings up some great points and I'll have to give adding a different handle and a bed extension some thought. The nice part is, when we use saws like this, we always do it at the neighbors. He has an old ear corn elevator that the cutoff drops into and then it is elevated into his dump truck. Once full we dump it near the wood chute and spend a couple days watching and coaching the kids on how to get it in the house and stacked up for winter.

thanks for pointing that out Andy. All is fixed.

Here are the dimensions for the fender supports.

Thanks for the sizes bill