IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Bought a house and it came with a 1974 Loboy 185.
I did some general maintenance (plugs, air filter, checking levels, etc) and added a little 50/50 coolant.
After doing that everything seemed to be working just fine...until a little steam started coming out of the radiator cap and some coolant came out the overflow line.
It then seemed to run fine for a while until today, a lot more steam came out the cap, I turned off the tractor and slowly unscrewed the cap on the radiator and then a ton of steam and coolant started spewing.
Basically my questions are how do I bleed the system?
How much coolant is supposed to be in it?
What could be causing these issues?
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by coledog188 on Sat Mar 02, 2013 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Couple of things could cause engine over heating: Blocked coolant passages. Radiator fins plugged. Head gasket leak into cooling system. Ignition timing. Carburetor air fuel mixture.
Following link is a tool I use to flush out the engine block.
One of the first things I do with a newly purchased Cub and then every 3 or 4 years is to flush out the engine block and radiator - or lower radiator housing on a standard Cub. I have to clean out the radiator fins a couple times a year since I mostly use my Cubs as mower tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.
On the regular Cubs, if you overfill the radiator it will overflow until it finds the correct level which is just at the top of the fins. If you filled the radiator to just below the neck, it may have been overfilled and is draining down to the correct level. If you don't think that'a a possibility, then Eugene has pointed out other possible causes. Welcome to the Forum.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
I sure wish that when I bought my house a tractor had come with it .... your situation seems common south of the 49th for some reason. ..... hmmmm..
What you are experiencing is what Bob described. The C-60 in your Cub is a thermo siphon system and each engine will find it's own level in the rad. Adding coolant until you can see it at the top of the rad is overfull. See the page below....
Here is the International Cub 185 Lo-Boy Operator's Manual 8-75
I do not have a lot of stuff on the Numbered Series Cubs but I do have some. Suggest taking some time, maybe enjoy a cup of coffee as you read the material at the end of the following links. Enjoy as there really is a lot of information and resources available to our members.
Thanks for the warm welcomes guys
I've been doing some reading now that the tractor is having another issue besides the coolant...My clutch link bolt sheered off.
This thing: http://www.hamiltonbobs.com/Clutch-Link ... 103265.htm
I'm hoping to find the parts I need at Lowes tomorrow so I can finish a mowing project I have going on at the new house...Along with just having a working tractor.
Is there anything special I should know about replacing that bolt? Just put the new one in? I really don't have the money to do anything else to the clutch or other parts in that area for preventative maintenance (unfortunately...) but I am going to clean it up and check whatever else you guys think I should check.
Also, is it normal for the tractor to not start when that bolt is missing? I'm assuming it won't start because it has too much strain without the clutch completely disengaged because the bolt is missing...but I'm new to this whole tractor thing lol.
It's funny, we've been down here about a week now (moved from Upstate NY) and I've grown VERY attached to the tractor and was really bummed when I had to tow it back to the barn with my Titan.
Again, thank you to everyone for the help, I was SOOOO relieved to find this forum once I identified the tractor.
Here are a couple (blurry) pics of the clutch and how the bolt is broken.
In the pics I have already removed the bolt that connects whatever the front thing is to whatever the back thing is.
I had noticed that it seemed to be making a noise a few days ago but I couldn't get to the clutch because the hitch lift knob was being stubborn at the time.
This time I was able to get at it and take the clutch cover off and find the issue.
If you still have the old bolt with spring you can make one. If not, buy the one from HamiltonBob.
You need to obtain the operator's and service manual for the tractor. There are some very specific clearances for setting up the clutch and clutch brake.
Tractor out of gear - should easily start.
Edit: My 154 has a starter/generator (S/G) mounted in the generator location at the front of the engine. It's slow cranking over the engine - even with the engine in good condition, S/G just rebuilt, new cables and decent battery.
I have an excuse. CRS.
If you order the clutch link bolt from Hamiltonbob - order the clutch brake buttons at the same time, save postage. The clutch brake buttons are probably shot. Easy replacement since you are already there.
While you are in there - grease the retainer for the clutch release bearing. Zerk goes up. You may find the retainer installed up side down.
Drain the transmission/differential and replace with Hy-tran or equivalent. Replace the hydraulic filter.
Cub's therm siphon cooling system. Since there is no water pump, crud and sediment settles and builds up in the bottom of the block and around the cylinders. Specially around and behind the rear two cylinders.
I have an excuse. CRS.
I installed the new bolt (made one myself) and just have it on there, haven't set up the correct distances yet.
In any case when trying to start the tractor it makes a strained noise and doesn't even really turn over.
Here is a vid I recorded of it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iroAlSCB_38
Any more thoughts as to what is engaged or disengaged on it that is putting so much strain on the engine that it won't start?
Also attached is a pic of my bolt installed.
EDIT: Oops, I see I have the nut on the wrong side of the plate...I'll go fix that and put a locking nut on the other side.
.010" clearance between yellow bracket your bolt is attached to and the brake buttons - with the buttons pressed against the pressure plate.
Youtube video doesn't work for me.
Ignition off, transmission and creeper in high gear, brakes off. Roll the tractor forward and backward - checking for stuck engine.
Engine not stuck.
The electrical and starting system on the 154 is minimal at best. Start by checking battery condition, fully charged. Cleaning up battery terminals and cable/wire terminals on starter/generator.
Remove belt from S/G and see if S/G turns when ignition switch applied.
I have an excuse. CRS.
"Stuck engine" as in seized or...? If I can roll it what does that mean?
What's the S/G? I have a few belts, not sure which is the S/G.
Battery was working fine, I have a booster pack I applied to it at first thinking it was a dead battery.
I saw a little smoke from the right side up near the starter perhaps? Steering wheel side of the fan when looking at it in a side view.
Well I got it running. From what I can tell the belt that is hooked to the S/G had some coolant and maybe a little oil on it therefore it was slick and the S/G couldn't get a grip on it to turn the engine over.
Now my issue is that the clutch bolt has already bent a little just from a 10 foot run outside the shed. Could that be from too much tension on it where the clutch brake arm attaches?
Should I loosen those two nuts a little to move the brake back just a hair?
Take a look at Hamiltonbob's photo of the clutch brake bolt. Notice that the head end has a smooth shank. The smooth portion of the bolt slides back and forth in the lever bracket.
Also you have one of the springs placed incorrectly. There is a spring on each side of the clutch brake yoke. One of the springs is not right for the application.
It might be better to obtain either a new or used bolt with correct springs. Several advertisers on this board part out numbered Cubs. If you make another clutch brake bolt use a grade 5 or 8 bolt.
I purchased a 154 last spring. Lot of minor things wrong including previous owner fixes, mismatched parts and parts installed incorrectly. Suggesting that you can not assume that what is currently installed is correct.
If you do not have the operator's manual, parts manual, and service manual - you need them. Must have.
I have an excuse. CRS.
Your missing a jam nut were the other nut is on the adjustment rod.
First if the radiator is filled to tht top the coolant will expand when it gets hot till it finds its own level. The excess will go out thru the overflow hose. It will stop eventually.
hard starting can be from many causes.
The first thing i would do is to loosen the belt on the s/g and try to start it. This will clean up a dirty armature a little too. Then tighten the belt and try it.
Is the battery ok?
Are the battery connections clean?
Is it the correct pulley on the S/G? Some guys put the cub cadet starter on the int154's C60 engine but the larger diameter pulley doesn't spin at the higher rpm because the orginal pulley is smaller so the battery won't charge up to par. Plus you get less starting torque with the larger pulley. Example; the cub cadet engine turns at 3,600 rpm while the int154 engine tops out at 2,200rpm. You need the highest rpm with the c60 engine S/G.
Carb adjustment? It should start with the throttle fully closed and the choke fully pulled out. The low speed carb jet should be adjusted when hot, on an idle for the best smooth idle. It may take two or three times to be adjusted correctly if its that far off. The carb float level can be off too making it run rich so the idle speed rpm scrw is too far in giving it more air to run smoother. If it sppeds up when you adjust the low speed screw then lower the idle screw rpm. And readjust it again till its right.
The clutch adjustment is;
.010" clearance between the pucks and the flywheel for the flywheel brake. Clutch pedal fully up.
.090" clearance between the clutch pressure plate fingers and the throwout bearing. Clutch pedal is fully up.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest