Sun Mar 03, 2013 10:45 am
What is the best route to run wires up to the headlights?
Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:27 am
Good question. The guy we bought our cub from ran them over the engine.m Needless to say the wires burnt up.
I'm thinking of running the hot wire from the switch, spitting it there, then running the hot wire to both lights along and underneath the edge of the tank. The ground wire from each light I will find the nearest screw/bolt that the light can be grounded too and usethat.
That's what i'm thinking anyways. Anybody have some thoughts?
Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:39 am
In the harness to the front of the generator, splice the second wire as it reaches the fan shroud, left goes over the shroud and has 2 clips.
Sun Mar 03, 2013 12:54 pm
A couple modifications to the wiring harnesses I have on a couple of my cubs. Two have disconnect plugs up under the hood on the wiring to the headlights. Pull the plug and lift off the hood without having to unhook the wires at the headlights. You CAN NOT follow the factory wiring route with this method unless you want to remove the upper radiator hose each time. No, you may not ask how I figured that out! Either go over the top of the radiator hose or loop around the inside front nose of the hood. If you go the "around the nose route" you'll need a couple adhesive clips or the pads that you run wire ties through to hold the wire up and not be visible behind the grill.
The simplest I have is the one I had to rewire everything on. I followed the factory routing and ran a wire from the switch to the right headlight. From there I ran another wire to the left headlight. I crimped both wires together in the ring terminal at the right headlight. One less splice to deal with if you can live with looking at two wires on the back of the light and not drop the screws when you unhook the headlights to take the hood off. Just push the wires pack through the grommet in the hood.
Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:05 pm
I ran mine the same way Scrivet did...
My next move will be a disconnect along the line so the tractor can be split apart at the bellhousing without removing the hood each time.
Sun Mar 03, 2013 8:35 pm
I have found that no matter what kind of crimper you use soldering is a good idea. Just my two cents.
Sun Mar 03, 2013 8:42 pm
I also solder all my crimped SpaeNaur connections. Sure eliminates the terminals falling off, which they can do.
Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:23 pm
Yogie wrote:My next move will be a disconnect along the line so the tractor can be split apart at the bellhousing without removing the hood each time.
Seems like the wiring would be a minor part of the difficulty for splitting at the bellhousing without removing the hood.
Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:45 pm
The original wires ran up the right side with the harness and were intended to be held in place by the 'clamps' on the fan shroud (under the radiator hose for the left) and fed through the holes in the hood. There are (were?) clips in the hood to hold the whole harness between the dash and generator etc. The only tricky one is 12V lights have a 'plug' that you need to remove the connectors from, won't fit through the holes in the hood.
If you have a gaffed up harness you can still run it the same way. If the clips are missing from the fan shroud, a wire tie will work.
Regardless, any connection or connector should be soldered. Preferably with shrink tube. Beware of cheap connectors (most any these days)!
When I have a Cub with a home made harness or one that has cracked insulation I replace it. Problems in wiring WILL cause you problems when you least want them.
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