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New Cub Cadet 149 Runaway Problems
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:17 pm
- Zip Code: 45042
- Location: Middletown, OH
New Cub Cadet 149 Runaway Problems
I need help. I just bought a Cub Cadet 149 at an auction. It didn't run, but the gas tank smelled like varnish so I figured all it needed was the carb cleaned. I cleaned the carb float valve and fuel/air mixture screws, and charged the battery. It started without too much trouble. I had to remove the deck to get it in my truck. When I reinstalled the deck I found that I had 2 problems. 1)I can't get the deck to disengage. The pulley seems to be stuck in the drive position. I don't know much about these pulleys, but I guess the button pushes on the pulley and that causes it to expand. 2) I took it for a test drive with mower operating and it seems like it wants to not too slowly increase in speed. When I push the clutch a little bit it slows down but then speeds up again. If I pull the lever back it will slow down and still speed up. Other than that, the engine runs great but could use some more carb work. This is the first hydrastatic drive I've owned so I don't know too much about it. If everything works out ok it will replace the 1604 I purchased earlier this year. The one that "Country" Elliot liked so much. BTW, it came with a Case (red) front blade with mounting hardware. Are these blades interchangeable with other Cub Cadets? One other thing, the back of the tractor has a rod with a round hole in it. Is this the hitch? I hope this doesn't sound too crazy, but I am certified! I hope I won't be told it needs a lobotomy. Larry
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:12 pm
- Zip Code: 40218
- Circle of Safety: Y
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I would suggest you order a service manual for the 149, from Cub Cadet or from Binder Books ( http://www.binderbooks.com ), and that will get you started. The hydro problem is probably a linkage adjustment problem, but the procedure cannot be easily described here. It is rather involved, and the service manual has pictures and a detailed discription.
The "rod with a round hole" on the rear sounds like what IH called a 3 point hitch. The upper casting with a round hole is 1 point, the other 2 are at the bottom on either side of the drawbar.
As for the 42" IH front blades, the blade itself is the same for all IH built Cub Cadets, but there are different subframes to adapt it to different models - one for an Original, one for narrow frame tractors that bolts on, one for narrow frame quick attach, one for wide frames (which the 149 is) etc. If you have one that has been adapted from another brand of tractor, I cannot tell you if it will fit other Cub Cadets or not.
The "rod with a round hole" on the rear sounds like what IH called a 3 point hitch. The upper casting with a round hole is 1 point, the other 2 are at the bottom on either side of the drawbar.
As for the 42" IH front blades, the blade itself is the same for all IH built Cub Cadets, but there are different subframes to adapt it to different models - one for an Original, one for narrow frame tractors that bolts on, one for narrow frame quick attach, one for wide frames (which the 149 is) etc. If you have one that has been adapted from another brand of tractor, I cannot tell you if it will fit other Cub Cadets or not.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 570
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:17 pm
- Zip Code: 45042
- Location: Middletown, OH
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2338
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:12 pm
- Zip Code: 40218
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Louisville
The front PTO clutch can usually be repaired, depending on what may be wrong. There is a fiber wear button on the rockshaft that pushes on a steel button in the center of the PTO clutch to disengage the clutch. Both can wear/break and cause the problem you have, but repair depends on how long it has been that way, and how much wear/damage has it caused to other parts. Your tractor may or may not have a PTO brake on it, depending on the serial number, but about all the parts needed to fix it are available from Cub Cadet - clutch disc, release fingers, bolts etc. There are brass wear buttons for the rock shaft available aftermarket, but the stock fiber ones will work very well, just get more than one because I guarantee you will break the tab off the back of one or more before you get it pressed into the rockshaft. Hint: bevel the edge of the tab and use a pair of channelock/waterpump pliers or a smsll clamp the press it in.
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