Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!

Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:54 am

This is the part on the lower control arm the man in the video put his socket extension against on the rear of the lower control arm. I always pushed on the front…just below the shock bracket…than hit the hub flange back in with a big hammer and repeated…I never was able to have an assistant to hold the socket or turn the steering wheel. I never remembered pushing from the back of the lower control arm…..once the bearing broke loose from the front and it was hit back and then pushed back out it was loose enough to tap out with an hammer.

Do what Wakulla Bill said (wrote) about the EGR issue you are having. I was going to copy and paste the GM service manual diagnosis for DTC PO404,but a friend ( a retired Ford tech) told me about this site which he said was a lot more user friendly and whole lot less politically correct. If you can get a scanner that has an activate functions mode it will make life easier….but if you can’t, I think the diagnosis attached will help you.

Since you didn’t have the EGR code from the beginning, I think it’s a connection problem …connector terminal loose, connector loose from reassembly….GM connectors/terminals have issues’…

Tips… when using a Digital Multimeter and checking live sources ( voltage, amps.Hertz and ect.) from a PCM,VCM,ECU,TCM and ECT.use only a RMS compliant Digital Multimeter (see What tools do I need? page one Buying a Digital Multimeter [ link below])…When you check for ohm’s disconnect all voltage source(s).

PS…Check the evap. canister and see if the bottom of the canister is moist… with no evap. codes the system has to be sealed, the fuel smell has to be external. Did you check the fuel pressure regulator?

Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!

Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:27 pm

Thanks for sharing that website Jack,looks like it has some good info,I like it.

Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!

Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:27 am

Wakulla Bill wrote:
Thanks for sharing that website…

From what I’ve seen there's a lot of good info. One thing I’ve seen I don’t agree with is the method that is shown for checking wire circuits with a wire piercing probe. I don’t like piercing insulation covering wire due to moisture infiltration weeping back into the hole. If you have to use this method, after the repair; be very careful sealing the puncture or you will have a very bad corrosion issue that you can’t see at a later time. Picture(s) show the way I check wire circuits. The most economic “back probes” pictured are sewing needles that can be purchased very cheap and they work very well. The best “back probes” pictured are the manufactured ones that attach to the test equipment. When diagnosing from the front of a female electrical connector use a very small probe shown in picture to prevent damage to the connector.


The Power Probe tool they talk about is a very good tool in my opinion… I’ve been told Sears sells a very good True-RMS Digital Multimeter at a very good price.

The F150 No Start Due to Voltage Drop (Case Study) article in my opinion is a must read on how important it is for checking voltage drops during diagnosing electrical problems. I had almost the same problem on a new Silverado which only happened when the floor pan flexed when a trailer was attached to the truck ….that one really gave me the GM feeling….. the customer called my mother every name they could think of…boy those were the days…

Re: Need advice on 2002 Chevy Astro AWD repairs - IT RUNS!

Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:56 pm

...Update on the Astro.
Put the new distributor in on Saturday. Nice and quiet now and the van seems to run a lot stronger.
Original distributor had 180,000 miles on it. The bushing at the top was ovaled out and the distributor shaft was well worn at the bushing area. Since the van has this many miles on it I went with a fairly inexpensive distributor, World Power Systems DST 1639. With shipping from RockAuto it came to $70 and included the rotor and distributor cap, both with brass contacts. The exact same one from our local Advance Auto store was $240 plus sales tax. :shock: The bricks & mortar are expensive!

Still need to solve the fuel smell issue and the PO404 code. No signs of fuel in/around the intake - that's good! The PO404 Code has been there for a couple of years. I thought it might go away after doing the intake manifold gaskets and a tuneup. I'll try cleaning the EGR Valve first. I'm getting pretty good at pulling the "doghouse" out. I may need to "pay-the-man" and have a garage do the "smoke" test for the fuel system leak.