Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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and this is how she looks now.
New Brake Bands and Brake Drums are in. When complete this will be the first time since about 1970 - the brakes will work as designed. You've all been a big help so far I'm sure I'll need lots more. One of our biggest challenges was that someone before we got her - welded the seat bolts into the toolbox bracket.....That was fixed with some careful cutting torch work.
Last edited by Rudi on Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Hey There Ken! Glad to see ya on the Cub forum!
Tractors are like watermelons..Eat the red and throw away the green!!
Brendan Dixon Greenville NC
1964 Farmall Cub #223883
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Well, it looks like you don't mess around!
I see you are taking the "while I have the hood off" approach!
It looks like you are well on your way to have a nice Cub for many more years!
Thanks for sharing,
Brendan, thanks for commenting on my pix. Glad to be here on the forum and ffeell so wwelccome by ya'll. Be glad when I can give advice, as easily as request it.
David, yup, we're taking the hood off approach. We figured we've had this tractor since the mid 1960's, it deserves some real TLC. Last evening we decided to pull the right axle housing to find it full of corn and seeds soaked in oil. The transmission o-ring and axle seal are well shot. Glad we pulled that also.
Thanks for commenting on our pix. We 're gonna shoot a time lapse of it going back together.
that cub looks like shes in good hands . the time lapse idea is a great one . i hope you have time , im sure a bunch of these guys would love it , as would i . coppersmythe...........................................................
Hi all - thought I'd share what we got done this weekend.
1. Tie Rod bent for about 40 years was removed and straightened after about 30 trial and errors I got the inner one out, adjusted them both so they slide freely - well mostly free....A small tap and will work again.
2. The governor has been disassembled as many of you know. Will be reading the tolerance guides and service manuals -
3. Thanks for all your help, I've got fenders coming via eBay.
4. The right drive axle housing is off- the mice did a nice job of filling that.....
5. Differential is out so we could change the transmission seal O-Ring and drive-shaft seals.
6. Mostly importantly the slop sink is installed in the garage so I can wash up out there - My blushing bride of 36 years is joyful
More pix this week - if the work week is not too crazy.
Looks like you have been a busy man! You should have a nice Cub when you're done. Look forward to some pics.
"Work smarter; Not harder"
Hi there! Got a question regarding piston rings.
I am reviving my '47 farmall cub for the first time and need to purchase new piston rings. How do you determine what size is needed? Std, 0.020, 0.030, etc? What measurements are needed?
I took measurements of the piston and cylinder with my calipers.
Piston (above top ring): 2.612"
Piston (below bottom ring): 2.625"
Does any of these measurements indicate what ring size I need to purchase?
Thanks in advance!
Your basic measurements indicate that your engine is still std. bore size. While calipers will get you close, you really need to do some more precise cylinder wall measurements. The cylinder, as measured with calipers, will only show the size at the very top of the bore, where there is no wear. It needs to be measured at several locations along the bore, in both fore/aft and left/right directions to determine wear & taper before you can determine whether or not it can simply be re-rung or if it will have to be bored oversize. If you haven't done so, check out the links at the top of the page for the Blue Ribbon service manual and do some studying on rebuild procedures. And welcome to the forum!
Thank you Gary. I just deglazed the cylinders over the weekend and they turned out great. Is it safe to assume with 4" long stones that I honed a uniform/consistent cylinder diameter along the length of the cylinder? If not, can you get a loaner measurement device from your local parts store to properly measure the cylinders?
Once I determine the bore diameter of my cylinders, typically what gap between the ring and cylinder wall is required? I assume you do not want to size the rings to the exact size of the cylinder because you will have too much friction, correct? I have the "shop manual" (Manual # IH-50) and it provides gap/clearance tolerances, piston-to-bore clearance of 0.0016-0.0024", Compression Ring End Gap 0.007-0.017", Oil Ring End Gap 0.007-0.020", Compression Ring Side Clearance 0.0020-0.0035", Oil Ring Side Clearance 0.0015-0.0030". The side clearance is what my question is referring to, correct? I may have answered my own question, but I wanted to make sure this is what I need to consider.
I really appreciate the help and I am so glad there are forums like this out there with knowledgeable people in them.
Hi All - Weekend Update on RauCub-1 1948
Got my 40 gallon parts washer moved to the shop from the farm.
Finally could degrease the governor that was caked inside and out with gooey oil and dirt.
Then the fun started. I've got the front axle and gear-box up on it's own jack stands. I decided that the lower steering oil seal and gearbox gasket had to be changed. Gosh those 5 bolts are not easy to get at. Got the gear housing off
Then the fun began - the crown nut on the steering gear shaft had to be driven off ever so slowly with a punch - resultant in a very sore thumb . Got that off - steering gear, shaft and all the other parts in the parts washer.... Yippee.
Now see my next post as it will need your help. Thanks for listening - KEN
Ken, be sure and take lots of photos of your progress and keep us posted. Sounds like you are making progress with the break down.
Since retirement, the things I miss most are the holidays!
Hi All - I don't see this part listed in the parts list and I'll be darned if I can remember what might have run through this. Any Ideas?
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