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Starting on the '50
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- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
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- Zip Code: 06040
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- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
I took the shaft over to a friend that has a lathe and we were able to turn it as long as a small cut was taken. It is still a little large but I did not have the bearing so we will finish it another day. The surface was nasty and it still did not clean up completely but it is plenty good enough for the sealed bearing.
I was concerned that the induction hardened surface was too hard to turn and that was why George recommended a tool post grinder. I don't think a machine shop around here would touch it for $40. That was a good deal.
I was concerned that the induction hardened surface was too hard to turn and that was why George recommended a tool post grinder. I don't think a machine shop around here would touch it for $40. That was a good deal.
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 6018
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- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
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- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
Finally starting on the engine. Had to crank up the Way-Back machine to find this post.
I finished taking apart the block last night and early this morning I took the piston off the 1976 rods I will be using.
I have a set of NOS .020 pistons that I hope to be able to use. I bought them several years ago cheap and put them away. Trent McPeak tipped me off to those when a set of 4 were on eBay for around $100. No pins, but I found those on eBay a year or 2 later, also NOS, for $15.
The plan is:
Use the later rods (and bearings) and the pop up pistons.
Use the 1976 camshaft
Install hardened seats
Use one of the later governors given away by Tom M when they were moving to Florida.
The transmission gears came from Art C's son
The paint I am using was the result of advice from Rob in NH
Jim Foose fixed me up with some DOT head bolts
Boss Hog fixed me up with some DOT heads and some other parts, like the correct breather (mine was rusted solid).
anyone see a pattern here?
I finished taking apart the block last night and early this morning I took the piston off the 1976 rods I will be using.
I have a set of NOS .020 pistons that I hope to be able to use. I bought them several years ago cheap and put them away. Trent McPeak tipped me off to those when a set of 4 were on eBay for around $100. No pins, but I found those on eBay a year or 2 later, also NOS, for $15.
The plan is:
Use the later rods (and bearings) and the pop up pistons.
Use the 1976 camshaft
Install hardened seats
Use one of the later governors given away by Tom M when they were moving to Florida.
The transmission gears came from Art C's son
The paint I am using was the result of advice from Rob in NH
Jim Foose fixed me up with some DOT head bolts
Boss Hog fixed me up with some DOT heads and some other parts, like the correct breather (mine was rusted solid).
anyone see a pattern here?
- Denny Clayton
- 10+ Years
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Re: Starting on the '50
bob in CT wrote:Finally starting on the engine. Had to crank up the Way-Back machine to find this post.
anyone see a pattern here?
Yeah, every three years you start on another component. Sounds a lot like me.
- Peter Person
- Cub Pro
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- Location: CT, Stafford Springs
Re: Starting on the '50
...
and all the boys were going to do was sell it for the parts!
Looking forward to seeing another of your stellar restorations.
Peter
and all the boys were going to do was sell it for the parts!
Looking forward to seeing another of your stellar restorations.
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
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- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:34 am
- Zip Code: 06040
- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
Peter Person wrote:...
and all the boys were going to do was sell it for the parts!
Looking forward to seeing another of your stellar restorations.
Peter
Would have been nice parts. All the castings are mint. That is why I decided to take it on.
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 6018
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- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
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- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
Well life had a few things in store for me so this has been on the back burner for a while. My Mom passed in 2013 and before that I was over her house every day after work and sometimes before.
Here is the current status:
Last year, Art Chester set me up with his machinist and I had the block bored for the NOS pop-up pistons I bought on eBay at a great price. While my mother's house was empty and getting prepped for listing, I painted the inside of the block with Glyptal and baked it in her oven. It is a smelly process, so I had some fans set up and left the house. You have to bake Glyptal. It is a must to cross-link the polymer. It is very similar to Bakelite in chemistry so it has to thermoset to get the best properties. After, I ran the self-clean cycle, so not harm done, but don't try this at home- the fumes are not healthy. The block has been sitting since August of last year and my garage as full of estate items until last month when we had a huge yard sale and finally cleared out the house, garage, attic and basement. More to go, but at least I can walk from one end of the garage to the other without planning my first step to make sure I didn't get stuck on the wrong foot in the middle of all the junk with no place to land my next step. I felt like a hoarder.
The tractor is more or less put together from the torque tube back, so the engine is next. I started prepping the block- double checking the oil galleries for cleanliness, installing all the oil plugs, and cleaning any paint in the lifter bores and valve guides so there are no hangups. I have some brushes coming Monday for the guides to finish this up.
Today, I have been inspecting and evaluating three governors to make one good one in the original casting. I may have some 154 governor weights among the parts and I need to confirm that, as that is what I would prefer to use.
Crank is polished and I will be using the crank, connecting rods, and cylinder head from a spare 1976 motor. I should make some nice progress next week. Tomorrow is a day off up at Cecil's!
Here is the current status:
Last year, Art Chester set me up with his machinist and I had the block bored for the NOS pop-up pistons I bought on eBay at a great price. While my mother's house was empty and getting prepped for listing, I painted the inside of the block with Glyptal and baked it in her oven. It is a smelly process, so I had some fans set up and left the house. You have to bake Glyptal. It is a must to cross-link the polymer. It is very similar to Bakelite in chemistry so it has to thermoset to get the best properties. After, I ran the self-clean cycle, so not harm done, but don't try this at home- the fumes are not healthy. The block has been sitting since August of last year and my garage as full of estate items until last month when we had a huge yard sale and finally cleared out the house, garage, attic and basement. More to go, but at least I can walk from one end of the garage to the other without planning my first step to make sure I didn't get stuck on the wrong foot in the middle of all the junk with no place to land my next step. I felt like a hoarder.
The tractor is more or less put together from the torque tube back, so the engine is next. I started prepping the block- double checking the oil galleries for cleanliness, installing all the oil plugs, and cleaning any paint in the lifter bores and valve guides so there are no hangups. I have some brushes coming Monday for the guides to finish this up.
Today, I have been inspecting and evaluating three governors to make one good one in the original casting. I may have some 154 governor weights among the parts and I need to confirm that, as that is what I would prefer to use.
Crank is polished and I will be using the crank, connecting rods, and cylinder head from a spare 1976 motor. I should make some nice progress next week. Tomorrow is a day off up at Cecil's!
-
- 10+ Years
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- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 6018
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:34 am
- Zip Code: 06040
- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
Me too. I actually had a garden this year. I have a lot of service to catch up on now that I have room for a tractor in the garage, plus I want to build a new motor for the Tiger.
-
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1947 Circle Cub #1110
1947 Circle Cub #1316
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1966 Power King
189 two way Plow
54A Blade
144 Cultivator
26 ft Welcraft
1967 Case 530ck Backhoe - Location: Middleboro Massachusetts
Re: Starting on the '50
I paid $40 in mass. The shaft is hardened in the area that needs to be turned down. Have fun with the project. Wally
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 6018
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:34 am
- Zip Code: 06040
- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
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- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
wfmdfm wrote:I paid $40 in mass. The shaft is hardened in the area that needs to be turned down. Have fun with the project. Wally
I'll be using those rings very soon!
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 6018
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:34 am
- Zip Code: 06040
- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
A little progress. The pistons are installed but I did not like the slop in the idler gear bushing, so it looks like I have to pony up $44 for a new one plus $13.50 for shipping that ounce .
I turned to the governor. I have bits from 4 governors so I am assembling the best of what I have. I have 3 governor rockshaft assemblies. The one with the best casting for the tightest fit to the extension rod has the worst shaft bearing surface- corroded and pitted. The assembly with the best shaft has the most wallered out hole in the casting, so drive the pins out and swap them. I ordered a new rockshaft bearing and seal so I drove them out and cleaned up the inside and painted it with Glyptal. Now I need to bake the housing for 2 hours in the gas grill and it will be ready for assembly. One of the governor innards had the smaller weights for the numbered Loboys so I am going to give that a go and see how I like it. I think I would rather have it in my mowing tractor, so we'll see. I ended up with a pretty tight connection between the rockshaft assembly and the better of my two rockshaft extensions. There is a lot of meat in that casting and I think a set screw opposite the keyway would make that connection rock-steady. I was thinking a small dimple in the shaft and a pointed setscrew with a dab of Loctite would eliminate any opportunity for wear to occur.
I''ll take a couple of pics tomorrow.
I turned to the governor. I have bits from 4 governors so I am assembling the best of what I have. I have 3 governor rockshaft assemblies. The one with the best casting for the tightest fit to the extension rod has the worst shaft bearing surface- corroded and pitted. The assembly with the best shaft has the most wallered out hole in the casting, so drive the pins out and swap them. I ordered a new rockshaft bearing and seal so I drove them out and cleaned up the inside and painted it with Glyptal. Now I need to bake the housing for 2 hours in the gas grill and it will be ready for assembly. One of the governor innards had the smaller weights for the numbered Loboys so I am going to give that a go and see how I like it. I think I would rather have it in my mowing tractor, so we'll see. I ended up with a pretty tight connection between the rockshaft assembly and the better of my two rockshaft extensions. There is a lot of meat in that casting and I think a set screw opposite the keyway would make that connection rock-steady. I was thinking a small dimple in the shaft and a pointed setscrew with a dab of Loctite would eliminate any opportunity for wear to occur.
I''ll take a couple of pics tomorrow.
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
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- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:34 am
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- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
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- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
Here are a few governor pics. Goal was to use the original housing, but select the best parts from a box of governors. As I mentioned in the last post, I selected the lighter weights to use. The weight assembly was taken apart and thoroughly cleaned and inspected and reassembled. Here is the cleaned assembly with the best gear/seal surface, lighter weights, and a nice thrust bearing.
Here is a comparison between the two weights:
The needle bearing and seal were removed and the housing was painted with Glyptal and then baked in my gas smoker for 2 hours at 250 degrees to cross-link the polymer. The new bearing and seal arrived from TM just as it was cooling down.
I evaluated all the rockshaft parts. The best shaft for the needle bearing was connected to the most wallered-out hole. The best hole had a badly pitted shaft at the bearing, so I drove out the pins and put the best 2 parts together. The yellow one is the keeper.
I would put it together now, but I am seriously thinking about drilling and tapping the rockshaft casting for a set screw to assure that there will be ZERO slop in the connection between the governor and rockshaft extension. If it does not move, it will never waller!
Here is a comparison between the two weights:
The needle bearing and seal were removed and the housing was painted with Glyptal and then baked in my gas smoker for 2 hours at 250 degrees to cross-link the polymer. The new bearing and seal arrived from TM just as it was cooling down.
I evaluated all the rockshaft parts. The best shaft for the needle bearing was connected to the most wallered-out hole. The best hole had a badly pitted shaft at the bearing, so I drove out the pins and put the best 2 parts together. The yellow one is the keeper.
I would put it together now, but I am seriously thinking about drilling and tapping the rockshaft casting for a set screw to assure that there will be ZERO slop in the connection between the governor and rockshaft extension. If it does not move, it will never waller!
- Boss Hog
- Cub Pro
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- Location: VA. Randolph
Re: Starting on the '50
drill it and put a roll pin in it works great and EZ to remove if needed . The new bearings for the Idler dont look too good to me. I ended up using a good used gear
Boss
Boss
IN GOD WE TRUST
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 6018
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:34 am
- Zip Code: 06040
- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
Some progress. Motor pretty much assembled.
Here are the details:
original block. Will use Rick Prentice's reinforcing braces
internal surfaces painted with Glyptal paint and baked to cross-link the polymer.
0.020" over bore. NOS pop-up pistons.
Newer style rods
Later camshaft
hardened exhaust seats AND valve rotators.
1976 cylinder head
lighter governor weights
154 manifold
Zenith carb.
Number 3 was rough due to water ingress, but it has new valve seats. Goal was to save the original block.
Home with the front pulley installed
Here are the details:
original block. Will use Rick Prentice's reinforcing braces
internal surfaces painted with Glyptal paint and baked to cross-link the polymer.
0.020" over bore. NOS pop-up pistons.
Newer style rods
Later camshaft
hardened exhaust seats AND valve rotators.
1976 cylinder head
lighter governor weights
154 manifold
Zenith carb.
Number 3 was rough due to water ingress, but it has new valve seats. Goal was to save the original block.
Home with the front pulley installed
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 6018
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:34 am
- Zip Code: 06040
- Tractors Owned: 77 Cub (red); 74 Cub; 52 Cub; 50 Cub ( post-demo)
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CT, Manchester
Re: Starting on the '50
Figured I would take some time to get an alternator mocked up on the motor before painting season.
Even though I have almost all the parts from a Longstripe to mount a Delco, I though I would give this one a shot. Denso made for a Kubota- 35 amp. Hoping that it is designed to put out that amperage at a lower RPM, but I have no idea what kind of drive pulley it is designed for, so we shall see. Denso 121000-0600
Just mocking up here, but i really need a fan a couple of belts. The special nut for the fan would be helpful too. If I can only find were I squirreled it away.
So.... like I said, I needed the fan. I went up into the attic and fished it out of a box, sans nut. Great. Gave it a spin and it was frozen solid. Wonderful. Figured this was going on the list for Boss.
I split open the fan, and like the breather and engine, it had been full of water. The first thing I did was take off the slinger and clean and mark the "up" side. I still will check it. One thing I have learned with old tractors is trust that nothing before you showed up to be done right.
The shaft was not so bad
looks bad, but this will clean right up if I throw enough grit at it.
Love these wire brushes. I have a lot of them, coarse, fine like this, and all the way up to one big enough to clean an axle housing extension. It did a great job on this bore.
Spins like a top, even dry.
Now I just need to find that nut...... and NOT the one in the mirror
Even though I have almost all the parts from a Longstripe to mount a Delco, I though I would give this one a shot. Denso made for a Kubota- 35 amp. Hoping that it is designed to put out that amperage at a lower RPM, but I have no idea what kind of drive pulley it is designed for, so we shall see. Denso 121000-0600
Just mocking up here, but i really need a fan a couple of belts. The special nut for the fan would be helpful too. If I can only find were I squirreled it away.
So.... like I said, I needed the fan. I went up into the attic and fished it out of a box, sans nut. Great. Gave it a spin and it was frozen solid. Wonderful. Figured this was going on the list for Boss.
I split open the fan, and like the breather and engine, it had been full of water. The first thing I did was take off the slinger and clean and mark the "up" side. I still will check it. One thing I have learned with old tractors is trust that nothing before you showed up to be done right.
The shaft was not so bad
looks bad, but this will clean right up if I throw enough grit at it.
Love these wire brushes. I have a lot of them, coarse, fine like this, and all the way up to one big enough to clean an axle housing extension. It did a great job on this bore.
Spins like a top, even dry.
Now I just need to find that nut...... and NOT the one in the mirror
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