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Where to begin.

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RaidKLW
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Zip Code: 42141

Where to begin.

Postby RaidKLW » Sun Jul 07, 2013 5:37 pm

I married the farmer's daughter, and now I've inherited a farm. My father-in-law had a '47 Farmall Cub that's been sitting in the barn for more than 10 years. My wife wants to keep it for sentimental reasons. I don't want to keep something that big that isn't working, I don't know how much work it's going to take to get it running, but I do know it will be easier than convincing my wife to change her mind.

She thinks it was running when it was parked in the barn, but she also thought it was an Allis-Chalmers, so I don't know how reliable that information is.

I've already read through the owners manual to acquaint myself with the CUB, but I'm not sure where I should start. I already plan on getting fresh belts, but should I automatically assume the gaskets will need to be replaced? The owners manual has start up procedures, do I just follow them, or are there other things I should check before I start putting a lot of time and money into it?

So,where do I begin?

Pictures coming soon.

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Don McCombs
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Posts: 17476
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Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Re: Where to begin.

Postby Don McCombs » Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:15 pm

Before spending any money on parts, the first thing to do is to determine whether the engine is free or stuck. The best way to accomplish this is to attempt to turn the engine clockwise with a hand crank. Let us know what you find.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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The best teachers are those who show you where to look, but don't tell you what to see.
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ricky racer
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Re: Where to begin.

Postby ricky racer » Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:26 pm

In the absense of a hand crank, you can usually turn it over by rotating the fan.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub

tinnerjohn
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Tractors Owned: 52 Cub, 42 Farmall H 49 Ford 8N (FIL's tractor) and a yard full of implements for them 51 Chevy 3100 PU
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Location: West Farmington, OH

Re: Where to begin.

Postby tinnerjohn » Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:32 pm

Welcome to the Forum! Someone will be along soon with the official welcome, in the meantime, I'll offer my advice for what its worth. The first thing I do with a project like yours is to pull the spark plugs and put some motor oil in the cylinders, let it sit for an hour or so to seep in, then carefully try turning the engine over by hand. In the meantime, you can check the fluid levels and condition. (They all will need changed, but make sure the engines not seized before you go through that step.) Check the plug condition, replace if necessary. If the engines free, spin it a few times with the crank or starter, then install the plugs and pour some fresh gas in the tank. SLOWLY, the sediment bowl gasket may be dried out and leak. Then, following the manual's starting instructions, fire her up. If you have problems or questions, come back here. This site is a gold mine of information, and there are no stupid questions. The Cub Book of Knowledge (CBoK) link has a ton of info from guys who have been there and done that. My wife inherited her Dads 8N, so I know where you are coming from. I put more money and time into that tractor than its worth, but to us it priceless. Good Luck. John

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Don McCombs
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Posts: 17476
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Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Re: Where to begin.

Postby Don McCombs » Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:03 pm

Before attempting a start, you MUST determine if the oil pump has lost it's prime. Many engines have been damaged by excluding this step. After sitting for ten years, the chances are good that it has. Let's find out if the engine is free first. Then we'll discuss the oil pump prime and start attempt.
Last edited by Don McCombs on Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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Proud Member of Maryland Chapter 39

The best teachers are those who show you where to look, but don't tell you what to see.
A. K. Trenfor

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ricky racer
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Posts: 6334
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Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan

Re: Where to begin.

Postby ricky racer » Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:04 pm

tinnerjohn wrote:Welcome to the Forum! Someone will be along soon with the official welcome, in the meantime, I'll offer my advice for what its worth. The first thing I do with a project like yours is to pull the spark plugs and put some motor oil in the cylinders, let it sit for an hour or so to seep in, then carefully try turning the engine over by hand. In the meantime, you can check the fluid levels and condition. (They all will need changed, but make sure the engines not seized before you go through that step.) Check the plug condition, replace if necessary. If the engines free, spin it a few times with the crank or starter, then install the plugs and pour some fresh gas in the tank. SLOWLY, the sediment bowl gasket may be dried out and leak. Then, following the manual's starting instructions, fire her up. If you have problems or questions, come back here. This site is a gold mine of information, and there are no stupid questions. The Cub Book of Knowledge (CBoK) link has a ton of info from guys who have been there and done that. My wife inherited her Dads 8N, so I know where you are coming from. I put more money and time into that tractor than its worth, but to us it priceless. Good Luck. John


One more thing. Before trying to fire up the motor, PRIME THE OIL PUMP!! The oil pump is not submerged in oil an can loose it's prime. You can do a search here to find out how to prime the oil pump.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub

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ricky racer
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Zip Code: 49120
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Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan

Re: Where to begin.

Postby ricky racer » Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:05 pm

Don, you're one step ahead of me. :lol:
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub

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Rudi
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Re: Where to begin.

Postby Rudi » Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:52 pm

G'day to you and congrats on marrying the farmers daughter :applause: :idea: And now you have your very own Farmall Cub :big smile: Once you get this Cub up and running, you will soon find out they are not only addicting but how simple they are to maintain and how much you are going to be happy that you did not get rid of it.

The Owner's Manual is a good place to start. Read it carefully and take it out to your barn and Cub and compare -- understand the connection between the manual and the tractor. Pay special attention to what Don said ... PRIME the oil pump before you even think of starting that Cub. And before you start it, follow all the lubrication and maintenance tips provided in the manual.

Follow the links below, there are tons of resources available to our members.

Image to Farmallcub.com :big smile: Forum Family. And you have come to the right place for all things Cub related. If you click on the Site Rules, Regulations, & Important Information, it will point you to :arrow: the Welcome Wagon wherein you will find links to many useful sites and topics. One of the most important resources are Owner's Manuals, Parts Catalogs and Service Manuals. The Cub Manual Server is the home of the jpg versions and the [url=http://www.farmallcub.com/[ Sorry, direct links to manual section is not allowed. ]/index.php]PDF Manuals[/url] -- well the pdf's of course :wink: Enjoy!.


The most important part of this journey is to have a lot of fun as you get the Cub going for your bride. Trust me, it will pay off :-:-):
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship


RaidKLW
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Re: Where to begin.

Postby RaidKLW » Mon Jul 08, 2013 5:05 pm

ImageImageImage

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Hengy
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Re: Where to begin.

Postby Hengy » Mon Jul 08, 2013 5:36 pm

If you have a good battery, or can get one, I'd put it in, and pull the starter handle (right side of the Hood) with the ignition switch off. Only do this briefly and only with the ignition switch off. If the engine turns (as I think it will since it has been under cover) then as others said, PRIME THE OIL PUMP. With the cultivators and planter on the tractor, it is going to be tough to get to the oil filter housing, but it may be the easiest place to do that operation. After priming, then I would pull the ignition switch and give it a shot at starting. It might surprise you and FIRE OFF.

Is the rest of the planter in the shed with the tractor? How about any other implements? What is the Serial number? The cub has a replacement grille on it as well as either an external coil added to the mag or a complete replacement of the mag with a distributor. This means that you have to have battery power in order to run the tractor...

Good luck and feel free to post any questions you may have! This forum is a great repository of knowledge!!

Mike
Mike (Happy as a Lark in Allison Park, PA)
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Check out my Restoration Thread (1955 Cub, Lewis)

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Rudi
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Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger
Circle of Safety: Y
Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
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Re: Where to begin.

Postby Rudi » Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:52 pm

Well now :shock:

Lookie what is on that Cub :!:

Planter/Fertilizer/Side Dresser gear? I am not all that familiar with them to tell for sure but Bob in Ct and others will know. UMF and a Cub-144 Cultivator. Weights all around, nice original tires .. those 8.3" tires :?:
Nice looking Cub.
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship


RaidKLW
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2013 1:10 pm
Zip Code: 42141

Re: Where to begin.

Postby RaidKLW » Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:33 am

Is the rest of the planter in the shed with the tractor? How about any other implements? What is the Serial number?

There's a lot of equipment ranging from slightly worn, to plies of rust. I'll have to poke around here and find some pictures so I know what I'm looking for. The serial is 83160, which I believe makes it a '49 ???.

Unless I'm mistaken, it is still set up with a 6 volt battery, Is the Cub a negative ground or positive ground?

I'll be back on the farm tonight, so I'll see what I can find.

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Hengy
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Posts: 7153
Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 8:12 pm
Zip Code: 15101
eBay ID: lacrosseorgans
Skype Name: Mike.Hengelsberg
Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub "Merlin"
1955 Cub "Lewis"
Cub Trailer
A-60 Blade
Cub-22 Mower
193 Plow
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: PA, Allison Park (Am Hengelsberg)
Contact:

Re: Where to begin.

Postby Hengy » Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:41 am

It is positive ground. I would assume that the battery is toast. You could check the water level and top off with distilled water and put a charger on it to see if it will charge up or not. If it does, great...prime the oil pump and give it a shot. If it doesn't charge up, a new battery is needed.

Concentrate on getting it running before taking anything apart or any clean-up. It might be a worthwhile thing to also change the oil before running...I'm sure that it is sludge. The gas is probably (definitely) old, so you might want to drain that as well.

Mike
Mike (Happy as a Lark in Allison Park, PA)
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Check out my Restoration Thread (1955 Cub, Lewis)

Matt Kirsch
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Re: Where to begin.

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:21 am

Unless the belts are visibly rotten and tattered, there is no reason to replace them at this point.

The tractor will even run without belts. Those belts power the fan and generator. If you don't run the tractor for more than a few minutes at a time, the fan isn't necessary. You can recharge the battery using a battery charger, and odds are the generator needs some tinkering to get it working anyway.

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bob in CT
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Re: Where to begin.

Postby bob in CT » Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:26 am

I would not start an engine sitting for years without changing the oil first. Save a little of the third quart to prime the oil pump. After running it for a while. I would change it again with a new filter.


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