might as well be leaking gold

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might as well be leaking gold

Postby lloyd430 » Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:02 pm

Its time to ask the experts-- I have rebuilt my carb, but it leaks gas really bad! I have set the float- recleaned all the ports and it still pours out! :evil: I just don't get it- any more possiable solutions? :? Its running too rich- I can actually start it cold without the choke, as per the previous post I took out the rubber tipped new needle and put back it the original one (solid brass)- still leaks!. The original gasket was paper and the one that came in the kit is cork, would this be my problem? :x Its almost to the point where I am willing to pay someone to rebuild and set the carb--- it sounds better the more I think about it- it anyone is interested let me know how much you would charge. Or any ideas as to what could be wrong, I have gone through the postings and done everything that I can find, but I must be missing one little thing-------hey going back to the gasket, now that I and looking at them both- the paper one is solid in the middle and the cork one is has an extra opening---could this be it!!!!!!!!
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:47 pm

How is the seat the needle goes in to? There is a red fibre gasket behind it too. Did you use a piece of clear plastic tubing to check the fuel level in the bowl.

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Postby Eugene » Tue Sep 27, 2005 12:17 am

My guess is it's either the seat, needle valve or the gasket under the seat.

I would disassemble the carburator - seperate the bowl from the top. Fabricate a fuel line from the carburator to a funnel. Fill the funnel with water - lift the float and see where it leaks.

You might want to double check the parts. I have received a mismatched needle valve and seat in a carb repair kit. And, another time the threaded portion of the seat was to long - bottomed out before tightening up on the gasket.

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Postby Buzzard Wing » Tue Sep 27, 2005 12:30 am

Must be getting old, because I can't find Lurker Carl's fixes on Rudi's manual server.
He covers it all and will very likely have the problem covered.
Could it be that the float is just plain 'stuck' on the wall of the carb??
It should be free to swing on the pivot, but can pretty easily bind on the side of the bowl.
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Postby cjpenny89 » Tue Sep 27, 2005 5:24 am

here is lurker Carls website read it and study it! has helped me out hands down!
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Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Sep 27, 2005 8:56 am

You just don't have the float set right. It's either set too high, or it's binding up inside the carb and not closing off the valve. Keep trying, and you'll get it ironed out.
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Postby Donny M » Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:51 am

One improtant question; doest the float float :?: Sometimes the float will spring a leak and fill with gas. Just a thought.
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Postby beaconlight » Tue Sep 27, 2005 12:20 pm

Yes floats can leak. Be careful soldering them. Don't use a torch. Use a large electric iron or an old fashioned soldering copper that you heat in a stove. If you don't believe me about not using a torch, bid on the one on e-bay first before yours blows up.

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Postby Lurker Carl » Tue Sep 27, 2005 12:41 pm

Before you consider sealing a leaky float, get all the fliud out. You can do this by placing your float in a refridgerator to cool it down, then dunk it in hot water to expell the liquid as the heat expands the air trapped in the pontoon. Make sure the crack or hole is the lowest so liquid escapes, not air. You may have to repeat the procedure several times to get all the liquid out.

Don't do this inside your house or over open flame! The liquid inside the pontoon should be gasoline. It will stink up the house or burn it down. Go to a thrift store and get a sauce pan to do it in. Momma gets annoyed when you use the utensils she uses for cooking food in.
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Postby George Willer » Tue Sep 27, 2005 1:30 pm

Lurker Carl wrote:Before you consider sealing a leaky float, get all the fliud out. You can do this by placing your float in a refridgerator to cool it down, then dunk it in hot water to expell the liquid as the heat expands the air trapped in the pontoon. Make sure the crack or hole is the lowest so liquid escapes, not air. You may have to repeat the procedure several times to get all the liquid out.

Don't do this inside your house or over open flame! The liquid inside the pontoon should be gasoline. It will stink up the house or burn it down. Go to a thrift store and get a sauce pan to do it in. Momma gets annoyed when you use the utensils she uses for cooking food in.


Method B: Take it outside the shop door and hold it with the leak down (if you can tell where it is). Then blow air past it with a small nozzle. It will be amazing how Mr. DeVilbiss's invention works... you can actually see the gasoline fog. By changing the angle a little (careful!) the nozzle can actually remove some dents from the float.
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Postby Lurker Carl » Tue Sep 27, 2005 2:15 pm

The cold float in hot water helps you find the leak(s). Just look for the tiny bubbles. Float pontoons from old carburetors can have multiple cracks, I think due to temperature changes flexing the brass as the internal pressure changes.
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Postby lloyd430 » Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:03 pm

Thanks for the advice but let me see what I have already done--- I have done Carl's procedure, no the float does not have a hole it it, I set the float to Carl's instructions, I did replace the gasket under the needle seat valve, I don't believe the float is binding cause when I shake the carb up and down I can hear it rattle. I know the needle does seat good because when I remove the bowl and blow into the fuel intake, when I raise the float up and down the air flow starts and stops. And it still leaks :cry: Don I just might take you up on your offer.
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Postby Lurker Carl » Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:11 pm

Make sure the carburetor bowl isn't dented in from someone beating on it. A float can hang up against the dent yet still rattle if you shake the carb.
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Postby lloyd430 » Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:21 pm

Carl the only thing thats dented is MY head from hitting the work bench trying to figure this one out!!! :) The more I check into stuff I has to bee the float is set wrong, but I followed the intructions and I'll leave it at that.... thanks for everyones' help. Like I tell my students- its no fun in learning something if you can't share the knowledge. :lol:
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Postby brichter » Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:25 pm

I had a similiar problem and had a heck of a time. Finally I found out that in the cheap rebuild kit I had installed was a gasket which was cut sorta crooked or else I had distorted it. Anyway the float was hanging on the gasket but when I took it apart the gasket would go back to it rightful place and the float would appear to be free. When I tightened it up and reinstalled it the gasket would protrude and catch the float. Just another possibility.

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