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Engine miss
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- Jason_Coffey
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:04 am
- Zip Code: 74011
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1958 F Cub with Woods 42C
1962 LoBoy with FH & Mott Flail - Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Engine miss
I just noticed on my coil in small white letters (printed on light gray, and not so easy to see) the coil requires an external resistor. Could this cause a miss? I don't have a resistor connected to the coil. Should I go by the IC14 coil from Napa?
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Re: Engine miss
Jason_Coffey wrote:I just noticed on my coil in small white letters (printed on light gray, and not so easy to see) the coil requires an external resistor. Could this cause a miss? I don't have a resistor connected to the coil. Should I go by the IC14 coil from Napa?
http://www.pertronix.com/support/manual ... 12vneg.pdf
Cheaper to purchase a Chrysler ballast resister.
I have an excuse. CRS.
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
- Cub Pro
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
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- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
Re: Engine miss
Missing resister would not cause a miss, but would cause coil to fail sooner
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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Re: Engine miss
Go back to my previous post. If your description of the problem(s) is/are accurate.
1. You have a problem with the mechanical advance within the distributor.
2. You have a problem with the Petronix's firing the #3 cylinder multiple times when it should be firing the cylinder once per combustion cycle.
1. You have a problem with the mechanical advance within the distributor.
2. You have a problem with the Petronix's firing the #3 cylinder multiple times when it should be firing the cylinder once per combustion cycle.
I have an excuse. CRS.
- Jason_Coffey
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:04 am
- Zip Code: 74011
- Tractors Owned: -
1958 F Cub with Woods 42C
1962 LoBoy with FH & Mott Flail - Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Engine miss
I was messing with the timing again last night. I installed the $12 Chinese tach and noticed that my cub is idling around 690 rpms. Per the manual it should be around 475-500. I can't get it to idle that low. If I lower the idle below 610 rpms it will die. Could these two issues be related?
Eugene, I agree the advance in the distributor is not working. I can't really pull it out right now to mess with it. We are moving to our new place next week, so I will have to wait until we get moved. So I will be picking your brain about this in a couple of weeks I'm sure. I am also going to Napa today to get a different coil and some 8mm wires. The cap and rotor were new when I picked up the cub from the PO, but I may buy those too just to rule them out as a problem. I'm starting to think, I might be better off just having the engine rebuilt.
Eugene, I agree the advance in the distributor is not working. I can't really pull it out right now to mess with it. We are moving to our new place next week, so I will have to wait until we get moved. So I will be picking your brain about this in a couple of weeks I'm sure. I am also going to Napa today to get a different coil and some 8mm wires. The cap and rotor were new when I picked up the cub from the PO, but I may buy those too just to rule them out as a problem. I'm starting to think, I might be better off just having the engine rebuilt.
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Re: Engine miss
Rebuilding the engine won't solve the ignition problem. Previously stated, #3 cylinder 80 psi, other cylinders good. So, I wouldn't overhaul the engine at this time, just operate it for a while to see if things improve.
I also wouldn't purchase and exchange parts hoping that would solve the problem(s).
First thing to fix is the distributor. Then go back to points and condenser ignition. Once tractor is running properly, then install the Pentronix ignition system.
I also wouldn't purchase and exchange parts hoping that would solve the problem(s).
First thing to fix is the distributor. Then go back to points and condenser ignition. Once tractor is running properly, then install the Pentronix ignition system.
I have an excuse. CRS.
- Bus Driver
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2917
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:26 pm
- Location: NC
Re: Engine miss
The Pertronix rules out the possibility of a bad insulating bushing/grommet where the primary wire passes through the body of the distributor.
Luck favors those who are prepared
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65 Cub Cadet 104
70 450C JD loader
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90 B7100HST-D Kubota
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54 Super C - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ravenna, Ohio
Re: Engine miss
Jason_Coffey wrote:I put the light on it and checked all four cylinders. The only thing I noticed was the rate the light flashed on #3 would flash so fast at times it was almost a solid light for 1-2 seconds then it would go back to a normal rate of flash.
I have two thoughts. The air gap for the pickup coil needs to be fairly precise. It sounds like something isn't quite spaced right, like maybe something is shifted so that when #3 is set to fire the air gap is a bit too large. ...and or the distributer shaft has a little slop or wobble in it.
Eugene wrote:Pull the distributor. Check mechanical advance and condition - repair. Then reinstall the points and condenser - see if the condition persists.
I believe Eugene is saying replace the electronics with the points.
If it's not the ignition then it sounds to me like a valve isn't seating well.
- Jason_Coffey
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:04 am
- Zip Code: 74011
- Tractors Owned: -
1958 F Cub with Woods 42C
1962 LoBoy with FH & Mott Flail - Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Engine miss
I will have to buy points, condenser, and a leaf gauge to swap out the petronix. I don't have the old ones. If I were to record the engine running so you could hear the miss, would that help diagnose the problem?
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Re: Engine miss
No, an audible recording won't help.Jason_Coffey wrote:If I were to record the engine running so you could hear the miss, would that help diagnose the problem?
Problem should be plural as in problems. Solve one at a time.
You should have the points and condenser on the shelf, as spares.
Thickness gauge. 4 sheets of regular typing paper will get you to around .019 to .020" for the point gap. Or two thicknesses of manila folder will get you to .019 to .020" Close enough for the Cub's engine.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: T6L5E1
Re: Engine miss
How old is your gasoline? My '64 ran like that when I got it. Drained the gas tank, put new gas in and it ran perfectly without a miss. Worth a shot.
Dan
Dan
- Jason_Coffey
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:04 am
- Zip Code: 74011
- Tractors Owned: -
1958 F Cub with Woods 42C
1962 LoBoy with FH & Mott Flail - Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Engine miss
Swapped out the coil with an IC14 from Napa. I also switched out the plugs again. The miss is gone. The #3 plug was fouled and the other three were a perfect tan color.
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- 10+ Years
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2007 Cub Cadet
Re: Engine miss
You said #3 was at 80. What's the difference between the other 3? When mine was missing, it would periodically backfire through the carb and had no HP. In my case the head was warped. Compression mismatch was about 15 between the best and worst. Only other evidence was a little bit of bubbling from between the head and block near #3. Having the head milled was the last thing I tried, and the only thing that worked. Maybe there's a way to positively test for it.
- Jason_Coffey
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:04 am
- Zip Code: 74011
- Tractors Owned: -
1958 F Cub with Woods 42C
1962 LoBoy with FH & Mott Flail - Location: Broken Arrow, OK
Re: Engine miss
20psi difference between the other three and #3. The compression has come up considerably since I first checked it. I think it just needs to run and free everything back up. I plan to add some seafoam to the oil soon and let it run a while before I drain it.
If there is a way to test for a warped head I would definitely try it.
If there is a way to test for a warped head I would definitely try it.
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- Team Cub Mentor
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Re: Engine miss
Compression test, dry then wet. I don't think that a warped head is the problem with #3 cylinder. More than likely worn or stuck rings since that cylinder is pumping oil - fouling the spark plug.Jason_Coffey wrote:If there is a way to test for a warped head I would definitely try it.
Just go ahead with the SeaFoam treatment, work the engine. It may take a while for the rings to free up - maybe never. In the mean time, you will probably continue to foul the spark plug. Next time you have to replace the #3 plug, go with a hotter plug and open the gap up a bit.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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