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Head Bolts

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Dusty B
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Dusty B » Tue Dec 10, 2013 8:55 pm

Whew! Relief! All head bolts out w/no break-offs. 1 radiator stud (soaking) and 1 water outlet twist-off - That I can deal with ! Ordered a new radiator from Steven Lane? on e-bay (made in Turkey??) $135 free shipping! We'll see what that is? New core was $250! (ouch!) Time w/tell I guess.
Being the cheapa** I am, did I see a post that someone used grade 8 bolts cut to length rather than pay $5 - 7 each for replacement head bolts?? Any repercussions or thoughts on that?? Hope to mic cylinders tomorrow, w/do valve touch up regardless before I button it back up! Dusty B
Grandpa's '41 B
'56,,'57,'59, Cu'b
'45 C
'55 Case S
Dad's DB garden tractor
'48 DeSoto
'31 "A Coup
'79 Lincoln TC
God looks out for those of us who don't know how to look out for ourselves!

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ricky racer
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby ricky racer » Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:18 pm

Good deal Dusty!! If you have a local fastener supply house near by like Fastenal or Mid-States Bolt & Screw, you can buy the bolts the correct length and not have to cut them down. They sell the bolts in 1/4" increments instead of the 1/2" increments sold in hardware stores.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub

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Dusty B
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Posts: 1880
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 7:35 am
Zip Code: 61736
Tractors Owned: '45 SC Case
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Location: IL, Downs
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Dusty B » Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:38 am

OK! Thanks again Ricky - we do have a Fastenal store locally so that w/be an easy out. Thinking of using the head I took off Katrina (switched engines) and w/try to get the local Jr. Coll. to plane the head for me to be sure it's flat. Tried to get enrolled in their engine rebuild class to rework it at a reasonable cost but they won't let us old f**ts in when they have students in a total program - even tho it's us that pay the taxes to buy the equipment !!! The other JC has a "hobby" class for body work but won't even talk about engine rebuilds! Dusty B
Grandpa's '41 B
'56,,'57,'59, Cu'b
'45 C
'55 Case S
Dad's DB garden tractor
'48 DeSoto
'31 "A Coup
'79 Lincoln TC
God looks out for those of us who don't know how to look out for ourselves!

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artc
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
Location: CT, Middletown
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby artc » Fri Dec 13, 2013 12:46 pm

I use Grade 8 bolts from McMaster Carr. you need to put a heavy washer under the heads of the short bolts to get the correct length. be sure to chase the threads in the block and use sealant on the threads, and coppercoat the head gasket prior to installation
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
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BIGHOSS
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Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub S/N 9216
w/ C-22 Mower

1974 Cub S/N 244814
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Ford 3000 Gas S/N C375091 w/Bushhog QT2345 Loader & 6' Squealer Bushhog
and a Palomino Mare named GIGI
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby BIGHOSS » Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:36 pm

What is reccomended sealant?
"Courage is being scared to death-but saddling up anyway".......John Wayne

Gary Dotson
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Gary Dotson » Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:41 am

Ron, opinions vary on bolt thread sealant, but I've used PTFE pipe thread paste for many years. Many automotive applications require sealant on the bolts too, so pretty much any mechanic you ask will have an opinion.

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artc
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Posts: 1871
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 10:25 am
Zip Code: 06457
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
Location: CT, Middletown
Contact:

Re: Head Bolts

Postby artc » Sat Dec 14, 2013 7:50 am

Indian head, permatex, copper coat in a can, (as opposed to the spray used on the head gasket) something non hardening. I've used RTV on several with good results. what Gary said as well.

and when you put the head on, cut off the heads on two of your old long bolts, clean them up, and insert them loosely in two of the SHORT head holes at opposite ends of the head. they will act as guides for the gasket and head to prevent slipping around. remove them, of course, to install the last two head bolts
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
http://www.ZagrayFarmMuseum.org

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Boss Hog
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Re: Head Bolts

Postby Boss Hog » Sat Dec 14, 2013 12:51 pm

I am not sure IH used grade 8 bolts to start with, I have drilled out quit a few and they did not drill like grade 8s. It takes a real good bit to drill a grade 8
Oh by the way Art, glad you used the GM on the straight A :D
Boss
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Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg


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