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Whitch Alternator?

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artc
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby artc » Fri Dec 13, 2013 5:53 pm

I have used a key switch for a lawnmower on other tractors. here I needed to use the mag single terminal kill switch.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
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Jack fowler
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Jack fowler » Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:04 am

Very interesting subject. My Fluke meter is really giving me problems and too expensive to replace or repair. What DVM meter would be a good replacement for a (true) TRMS Resistance: 500 MΩ? Manual settings would be fine for cost savings.

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Bus Driver
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Bus Driver » Sat Dec 14, 2013 4:15 pm

Luck favors those who are prepared

Eugene
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Eugene » Sun Dec 15, 2013 9:00 am

artc wrote:the B has a mag. that leaves no switchable place (with the standard mag grounding switch)to attach the exciter lead for the alternator. and if you leave it connected hot, there's enough of a current draw to kill the battery.
Tractor's light switch.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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artc
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Posts: 1871
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2003 10:25 am
Zip Code: 06457
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
Location: CT, Middletown
Contact:

Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby artc » Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:47 pm

[quote
Tractor's light switch.
][/quote]

then you would need to turn on the lights to get the exciter active, and risk leaving them on.

the best answer by far is a one wire alternator.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
http://www.ZagrayFarmMuseum.org

Eugene
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Eugene » Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:00 pm

artc wrote:then you would need to turn on the lights to get the exciter active, and risk leaving them on. the best answer by far is a one wire alternator.
CRS. Can't help with a memory problem.

Me cheap. I have a WD Allis that I use a separate toggle switch to excite the alternator. Start engine, flip toggle switch up/on, then immediately off. Once the alternator is excited, it will charge until the engine stops.

Plan to leave the 3 wire alternator on the Allis until it dies, probably in another 20 or 30 years. On another Allis, several years ago the 3 wire alternator quite. Replaced that it with a single wire alternator.
I have an excuse. CRS.

Clark Thompson
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Clark Thompson » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:31 pm

a delco 10SI alternator is the way to go. This has a built in regulator. if you have to have use a mechanical switch to excite the alternator then the alternator will charge full blast all the time. This will eventually burn the battery up and or alternator or both.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.

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artc
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Posts: 1871
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Zip Code: 06457
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
Location: CT, Middletown
Contact:

Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby artc » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:09 pm

considering also that the tractor is a customers who probably does not have a lot of experience or knowledge in this area. KISS and fool proof. even if it was my tractor, I would not want to have to remember to flip the extra switch every time I turn it off. odds are i'll forget...probably the first time I use it.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
http://www.ZagrayFarmMuseum.org

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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Boss Hog » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:51 pm

Art, you are correct, keep it simple :D
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Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg

Eugene
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Eugene » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:08 pm

Clark Thompson wrote:a delco 10SI alternator is the way to go. This has a built in regulator. if you have to have use a mechanical switch to excite the alternator then the alternator will charge full blast all the time. This will eventually burn the battery up and or alternator or both.
Absolutely not true. The Delco 10SI has been used in vehicles for years. The vehicle manufacturer utilizes an electrical mechanical switch at some point in the start or ignition circuit to excite the alternator.

Agree with Art. Since it's not your tractor, KISS, single wire alternator.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Boss Hog
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Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Boss Hog » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:15 pm

Oh for you cheapsters who what to use the $25 3 wire set up , use a horn button :D , That is what I did before the one wire Delco
IN GOD WE TRUST
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg

Clark Thompson
10+ Years
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Posts: 1573
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 11:01 pm
Zip Code: 36310
Tractors Owned: 1975 IH cub,1948 farmall cub,1979 international 3200 skid steer and a 1974 John deere 350B dozer.
Location: Abbeville Alabama

Re: Whitch Alternator?

Postby Clark Thompson » Mon Dec 16, 2013 11:51 pm

Let me correct myself.. I use a 10SI delco I buy rebuilt from the auto parts store that has a built in regulator and a 1 wire hook up.39 bucks with core. The old delcos either had a electronic or mechanical regulator. If you use a old delco with a 3 wire system and twist the two wires on the plug together it will charge full blast all the time.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.


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