new cub owner

[dockorea]

I have recently received a 1951 Farmall Cub and have been doing some of the much needed maintenance to it. This site has been extremely helpful so far with my questions, but now I have one that I cannot find the answer to in previous information. I am hooking up the headlights which were missing when I got it, and have gotten to the point of I need to know how to check the light switch to see if it is good even after a good cleaning, and which wires go where including the location of the in line fuse. Any help would be great as it has been so far.
Thanks
Larry Aleshire

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

go to the online manuals. It is in the owners manual.

[Scrivet]

There's a switch diagram in this thread. Took me awhile to find it and I knew what I was searching for.....
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=54960&hilit=headlight+switch+diagram
Depending on 1) which switch you have 2) whether or not you are still using a cutout instead of a voltage regulator 3) if it's been changed to 12V, will all have some bearing on how you hook it up.

For the complete wiring diagrams http://s101.photobucket.com/user/farmallbob/library/Farmall%20Tractor%20Wiring%20Diagrams?sort=4&page=1
Use #3 or #4 with a cutout. With a regulator use #6 which isn't for a Cub but follow the names on the wires and you'll be fine.

In the list at the very top of this page you'll see "manuals" twice. Click on the one to the right and scroll down to "How do I? resources links" and click on "Bob Melville's wiring schematics" will get you to the second link above. The first one is the result of a "search" using the Search in the upper right corner.

If you have the switch out of the dash I would use a short jumper wire to the battery and a light bulb and another short piece of wire. See if the light comes on when you turn the switch to D and gets brighter when you turn it to the B setting. You'll probably get a little smoke from the dimming resistor if it hasn't been used in a while, nothing to worry about. It will get hot so don't touch it.
An ohm meter would work checking between the input and the two light connections.

Welcome to the forum, don't hesitate to ask any questions if it's not clear.

[mikeintn]

Yes welcome to the forum, you'll be able to find any info that you may need for it from someone on here, and good luck with the Cub, and remember have fun

[dockorea]

Still having trouble with getting this switch wired, would a three position switch be correct for a 1951 cub. If so could someone with more experience explain the wiring setup to me because I am still lost. If this is not the right switch which one do I need for this 6 volt setup

[Jim Becker]

It should be a 3-position switch. Wiring should look like thais.

[Scrivet]

Are you having trouble figuring out how/where to connect the wires on the switch or is the trouble getting the headlights to come on?

If it's getting the headlights to come on the problem may not be your switch. There are a bunch of connections that have to be good. A quick test is a jumper wire from the negative terminal on the battery (If the tractor is positive ground as it should be) to the screw terminal (with the regular wire disconnected) on the light. That should light that one light. Repeat for all three lights. If all three bulbs light, then the ground portion of the circuit is good and you just need to get power to the lights. If one or more doesn't light then it's a ground problem or bad bulb for the ones that don't light. Ground for the headlight bulbs are from the base of the bulb through the reflector housing, to the metal bucket, to the mounting post, to the hood, to the frame of the tractor, and back to the battery. All of those need to make good electrical connections.

If you are sure it's a problem with the switch the square light switch can be taken apart by removing the three screws (two in the very corners, and one in the middle of the opposite side) and taking the bakelite back off. Then you can see if the contacts inside are corroded. Just watch how you remove the parts so you get them back in the same way. A little dielectic grease wouldn't hurt if/after you do any cleaning in there. It should be obvious but this is much easier if you remove the switch from the dash.