130 hitch questions

Farmall 100, 1954 - 1973

Moderator: Team Cub

Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.

130 hitch questions

Postby slingblade » Tue May 09, 2006 8:01 pm

I can't seem to grasp the concept. While looking at the rear of my 130 I see two upper bars that move up and down with the controls (Rockshaft) These are connected to the bottom cultivators by rods that have an adjustment nut and springs. The cultivators are attached to bears that pivot up and down in brackets attached to each bottom fender. Now heres the thing, how does a 3 point hitch connect to the tractor. I know that a upper link has to be installed to connect the top of the implement , but how does each side of the implement connect to the tractor. Does the rockshaft lower enough to attach the implement sides?? Inquiring minds.....
slingblade
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:07 pm
Location: N.C. Lincolnton

Postby Matt Kirsch » Wed May 10, 2006 8:15 am

Your tractor does not have a 3pt hitch. That's why it's not clear. You can't hook up a 3pt hitch implement with what you have now. Compare what you have with a picture of a tractor with a real 3pt hitch, and you'll see the difference.

Several pieces need to be added to the tractor to give it 3pt hitch.

First, the rear "cultivators" need to be completely removed from the tractor. These aren't really cultivators, BTW, they just scrub out the wheel tracks. The cultivators are up in front.

Second, you need to add two lower link arms. These anchor to the rear axle housings, using custom brackets. These two arms are what attach to the implement.

Third, you need to connect the lower link arms to the rockshaft arms using two vertical links.

Fourth, you need to add some stabilization between the lower link arms so they don't swing around all the time.

Here's a picture of what you are missing:
http://www.worksaver.com/product/hk95.html
Matt Kirsch
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 3184
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
Location: Rochester, NY
Zip Code: 00000
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Postby slingblade » Wed May 10, 2006 8:59 am

Can I replace the rear cultivator square arms with lift arms, then add a top link? Of course connect the lift arms to the rock shaft

Check out the set up as it is now

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0090.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0089.jpg

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g277/ ... 0_0088.jpg
slingblade
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:07 pm
Location: N.C. Lincolnton

Postby Matt Kirsch » Wed May 10, 2006 4:02 pm

You can't just unbolt the square arms at the pivots and bolt the lift arms on, but you've got the right basic idea.

The brackets for the cultivators will not handle the load of, say, a blade or carrier. They were designed for those little cultivator "scrubbers," which don't weigh very much or pull very hard.

Plus, the lift arms need to be able to swing in and out, so you can put them over the ends of the lift pins on the implements. Those mounts look like they just rotate.

You can get 3pt lift pins at Tractor supply that are threaded on one end. Just screw those into a bolt hole in the rear casting on each side, then mount your lift arm.
Matt Kirsch
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 3184
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
Location: Rochester, NY
Zip Code: 00000
Circle of Safety Award
Circle of Safety: Y

Postby Daniel H. » Wed May 10, 2006 6:42 pm

Worksaver makes a hitch to fit your tractor. They are not cheap, but they save alot of headaches.

Image

You might also consider a one-point fast hitch, which was an IH option on the tractor. They work great, if you have the implements that fit. Some aftermarket equipment is still available, such as a Howse Bush Hog and Leinbach equipment makes some in Winston-Salem.

Image

Image from Wisconsin Historical Society

Good Luck.
The four most expensive words in tractor restoration: "We might as well..."
Daniel H.
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 543
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 1:18 pm
Location: NC, Yadkinville

Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Wed May 10, 2006 10:26 pm

The problem with that worksaver rig, and it's a good one for the super-A/100/130/140, is that there's no convenient way to move the top link independently from the lower arms.

On that particular model, just for the convenience, you might want to think about a hydraulic top link. I'm not up to snuff on the 130's, but on a Super-A, you'd have to buy a hydraulic bypass block, and an open-center valve to control such a thing. Not a hideous investment, considering the time it will save you in adjusting your implements.
400lbsonacubseatspring
 

Postby Merlin » Thu May 11, 2006 12:05 am

See if this may help Slingblade. If you need more pictures, let me know.



Image

Image
User avatar
Merlin
CubPro Emeritus
 
Posts: 940
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 8:06 am
Location: Ponchatoula, La.
eBay ID: merlin582

Postby 400lbsonacubseatspring » Thu May 11, 2006 12:20 pm

That's a really nice and uncomplicated rig, Merlin.

I'm hoping to contrive something like that for my old A, to which I'm adding hydraulics.
400lbsonacubseatspring
 

Postby Daniel H. » Thu May 11, 2006 3:15 pm

The 130 hydraulics are just like the Super A if you don't have a fast-hitch. Even, then the bypass block and remotes would be the same as they all (Super A, 100, 130, 140) use a common touch control system.
The four most expensive words in tractor restoration: "We might as well..."
Daniel H.
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 543
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 1:18 pm
Location: NC, Yadkinville

Postby slingblade » Thu May 11, 2006 4:42 pm

Merl, can you give me the dimensions on the attachments plate. I would order just the plates if I could. Seems like the machine shop business in this area have all dried up. I've already got the lift arms and other stuff. I also tired to just screw in the implement links but thet are bigger in diameter and fine threads.
slingblade
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:07 pm
Location: N.C. Lincolnton

Postby Daniel H. » Thu May 11, 2006 5:51 pm

If you g to worksaver's site, they list the individual arts. You might order the plates from them. Also, don't forget the sway bar beteween the lift arms.
The four most expensive words in tractor restoration: "We might as well..."
Daniel H.
501 Club
501 Club
 
Posts: 543
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 1:18 pm
Location: NC, Yadkinville

Postby Merlin » Thu May 11, 2006 11:03 pm

slingblade wrote:Merl, can you give me the dimensions on the attachments plate. I would order just the plates if I could. Seems like the machine shop business in this area have all dried up. I've already got the lift arms and other stuff. I also tired to just screw in the implement links but thet are bigger in diameter and fine threads.


Will do tomorrow. (Friday, May 12th, 06.)
User avatar
Merlin
CubPro Emeritus
 
Posts: 940
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 8:06 am
Location: Ponchatoula, La.
eBay ID: merlin582


Return to Farmall 100 Series, 100, 130, 140

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests