Tractor tires Farmall h

[pokitisme]

I am curious ....now I am also differentiating between tires and rims.

Okay are there tubeless tractor tires that would fit a 1948 Farmall h. And by the way I am not specific on what size my tires are.

Next question. If I had tubeless tires for a Farmall h would I be able to still use the original Farmall H rims or would I need a different set of rims.
This brings up another question what sets of rims or spokes. Can I use from other tractors. I see other farmalls I see Allis-Chalmers I see Ford's I see lots of different tractors for sale some of them for extremely low scrap prices. I'm curious can I scavenge entire Wheel sets off of other tractors and use them on a 48 Farmall h. Let's say putting something from an Allis-Chalmers onto a Farmall.

Now if there are tubeless tires which basically I fill up with air just like a regular car tire are there any additional hazards or risk going tubeless. Meaning with the work a tractor does is a tubeless tire more likely to deflate or get knocked off the rim.

And last of all can you guys point me in some good directions for research purposes. Yes I have the Farmall book I have a couple of them. But just because it lists a certain Tire in the book doesn't mean that that's what's on my mine... By the way this goes for front tires as well. I believe the front tires do not have tubes. But still unsure of that

And another question I just thought... Ballast.... What can I use for ballast in tubeless or non tubeless tires. If it's a tubeless tire could I use sand since that moves pretty much like water. and I know it may sound stupid but I'm brainstorming here LOL. my tubes in my Farmall H are filled with salt water at least halfway. what other substances could I use as ballast or as something to thicken the tires up. Something that would basically make an entire Tire... Tubeless tire.... Hard as a rock and impenetrable. And if I was to create basically an entire hard rubber tire. Would that cause additional problems with the tractor like possibly causing it to flip over because of too much weight in the back

[Urbish]

First question: Your front and rear wheels will all have tubes. I am not aware of a tubeless option for the H as you would need a perfectly sealed valve stem and bead (which would be unlikely on an old tractor).

Second question: Your H has two-piece rear wheels. The outer rim is separable from the wheel center. Outer rims from a John Deere A, B, and G may be interchangeable. The wheel center may not be interchangeable. I don't know if any other makes of tractors used the same 2.00" axle diameter with a key that the H has.

Third question: I don't have any specific references to point to. M.E. Miller tire has a nice selection of tires if you know what size you're after.

Other questions: Do not fill your tires with sand. The sand will wear your tubes/tires internally until they fail. Sand will be impossible to remove from the tire. This will make it impossible to ever get the tire off the rim without cutting it off.

Regarding other ballasting ideas, some people use non-toxic RV antifreeze or beet juice. I'm not sure what you plan on driving through that you want the tires to be impenetrable, but I would suggest that tractor tires are generally designed to be very robust without further modification. I would not recommend completely filling the tires to rock hard as it will be a very rough ride. Either way, ballasting does not create issues with wanting to flip over since the added weight is going straight down through the tire.

[pokitisme]

Thank you very much for the information. Yeah I knew that there was an inner and outer rim. I just couldn't think of all the terminology LOL. My tires are in good condition one of the rear tires has cracks in it but they all hold air. It was just a curiosity question for me. Maybe somebody else has thought of the question and never asked. But anyway I appreciate the help.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Just because it is a tubeless tire does not mean you canot install with a tube. Whether a tubeless will work without a tube depends on condition of the rim.

[Scrivet]

I don't understand the confusion/secrecy on what tires you currently have. IH built almost 400,000 Farmall H's. Excepting the war years on steel, 99.99% of them had 16" front wheels with 5.5" or 6" wide rims and 38" rear wheels 8" 9" or 10" wide. Using wheels off of another brand of tractor would work about as well as using Ford wheels on your Chevy. You might get lucky and find a couple combinations that you can swap but generally they will only work on their brand.

Tubeless rims on cars and tucks have a hump the bead slides over to help hold it in place when cornering or low air pressure. Original H rims don't have these.
Results of a google searchs
Rim construction

As far as the front tires tube or tubeless easy enough to tell by examining the valve stems. I would be very surprised if they do not have tubes in them. Notice I did not say tubeless tires because it is very easy and common to take an old tubeless tire and turn it into a tractor front tire. Just because it says tubeless on the sidewall doesn't mean that's how it was installed.
Tube valve stem

Tubeless valves stem

As for ballast in the rear tires what you most likely now have is calcium chloride. While technically it's a salt it's not the type of salt most people think of when you say salt water. My question to you is, what is the reason you need ballast? There are specific benefits in certain situations, in others it's just an extra cost, extra work, extra time, extra pain to deal with that has no real benefit to tractor operation.

[pokitisme]

As to the ballast in the tires they already came with the calcium chloride in them so I remove it LOL. As to my inquiry about tire sizes and compatibility. there are lots and lots of tractors on Craigslist eBay Facebook and everywhere else. I figured I could maybe find a tractor with good tires for maybe a hundred bucks and possibly save the cost of a $300 Tire by exchanging it with something else. And that is why I come to The Experts LOL is because they know more than I do. also as to my inquiry on tire sizes and compatibility. I also have a curiosity on weather newer tires would work. But you guys answered most of my questions.

[pokitisme]

I don't understand the confusion/secrecy on what tires you currently have. IH built almost 400,000 Farmall H's. Excepting the war years on steel, 99.99% of them had 16" front wheels with 5.5" or 6" wide rims and 38" rear wheels 8" 9" or 10" wide. Using wheels off of another brand of tractor would work about as well as using Ford wheels on your Chevy. You might get lucky and find a couple combinations that you can swap but generally they will only work on their brand.

Tubeless rims on cars and tucks have a hump the bead slides over to help hold it in place when cornering or low air pressure. Original H rims don't have these.
Results of a google searchs
Rim construction
wheel-construction.jpg
As far as the front tires tube or tubeless easy enough to tell by examining the valve stems. I would be very surprised if they do not have tubes in them. Notice I did not say tubeless tires because it is very easy and common to take an old tubeless tire and turn it into a tractor front tire. Just because it says tubeless on the sidewall doesn't mean that's how it was installed.
Tube valve stem
tr15_valve.jpg
Tubeless valves stem
TIRE-0057_02.jpg

As for ballast in the rear tires what you most likely now have is calcium chloride. While technically it's a salt it's not the type of salt most people think of when you say salt water. My question to you is, what is the reason you need ballast? There are specific benefits in certain situations, in others it's just an extra cost, extra work, extra time, extra pain to deal with that has no real benefit to tractor operation.

Well I will be going up and down an incline if I have things planned correctly. I have already almost flipped the tractor on myself twice LOL. Once while trying to pull a 18ft trailer which I forgot was chocked. And I can't remember the other time.. the other issue I have is I have a brush hog with no rear wheel. That means that everything is basically balancing on the back tires. I'm just trying to get all basics and bases covered. As to the sturdiness of the wheel I will be going through thorns and Minnie small 1-inch to 2-inch stumps cut about 6 in off the ground. As I plan on taking the brush hog over those and reducing them more.basically I have four acres of wooded land and I plan on going backwards with the brush hog to try and reduce the growth. But going backwards down a hill with that heavy weight on the end can cause some possible issues and yes I could go at an angle. And I might not do it at all depending on how things work.

[Rick Spivey]

Just a comment on "making the tires rock hard". I assume this could be done with some type of substance (foam) that goes in as a liquid, then hardens. I don't know if something like that truly exists. But tires are designed to have a certain "footprint" in the contact patch with the (road, ground, etc). That contact patch has a different shape than the rest of the tire cross-section which is not in contact. If you could truly make your tires rock hard, you would alter the shape of the contact patch, and therefore lose traction, handling, braking, etc.

[Eugene]

I have four acres of wooded land and I plan on going backwards with the brush hog to try and reduce the growth. But going backwards down a hill with that heavy weight on the end can cause some possible issues and yes I could go at an angle.

Tractor and brush hog are designed to mow forward, not backward. If you can push over the brush, the tractor will usually be able to cut the brush.

Slime, auto parts store, installed in front tires will seal thorn punctures.

Might consider using herbicide on the brush, several times, in the summer and fall. This should kill the brush, and the brush will dry over the fall and winter. Once dry and brittle, the brush will normally break off at ground level.

Cutting green brush will leave stumps at mower height. The stumps can/will puncture tires.

If you are concerned about the the mower weight on the tractor's rear, add weights to the tractor's front.

Use the current tractor tires until there is nothing left.