193 plow question

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BullDAWG
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193 plow question

Postby BullDAWG » Thu Oct 11, 2018 9:20 pm

The coulter on the 193, is it supposed to be able to rotate left n right (swivel) ??? On mine the bolt that goes into a cast sleeve that fits into the fork that the coulter rotates in was frozen and can't be removed. I wanted to make something that could hold the bolt but it won't rotate. Im on phone so I can't post the parts pics ATM.
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Rick Spivey
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby Rick Spivey » Fri Oct 12, 2018 5:50 am

I'm fairly certain that mine rotates a few degrees left and right, I presume to move around small obstructions and such. But the movement is limited.
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby MiCarl » Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:38 am

The fork should be able to pivot on the sleeve. There should be a little piece of angle on the bottom of the assembly that limits how far the fork can swing.

It sounds like you're going to need to force/cut that bolt out then get the rest apart and cleaned up.
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BullDAWG
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby BullDAWG » Fri Oct 12, 2018 5:47 pm

I don't have a torch or drill press so here is what I'm having to do...
IMG_20181012_173631.jpg
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IMG_20181012_173606.jpg
IMG_20181012_173711.jpg
IMG_20181012_173830.jpg
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MiCarl
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby MiCarl » Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:56 pm

Don't drill it all the way. Once you're down to 1/4 inch or so you can probably easily knock it out with a punch.
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Bill Hudson
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby Bill Hudson » Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:14 pm

BullDAWG wrote:I don't have a torch or drill press so here is what I'm having to do...


The next time you get the itch to get a new tractor or implement, stop and consider the possibility of purchasing a new tool(s) instead. I was amazed at the number of times I've used my press. I sure would hate to do without it now. You have mentioned two tools that are almost essential when working on old iron. I'm reminded of a quote, attributed to Henry Ford; ""If you need a tool and don't buy it, you will ultimately find that you have paid for it and don't have it."

Bill
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BullDAWG
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Tractors Owned: 1950 Super A
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby BullDAWG » Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:59 pm

So true, just I had tons of tools and equipment stolen and I'm still trying to get back all I once had along with some new toys. But I just didn't know the coulter was frozen and it will be a month before I can get the torch. So doing it by hand for now. But I knew it would take 10 times the time this way but gives me something to do till then.
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BullDAWG
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby BullDAWG » Tue Oct 16, 2018 1:20 pm

What should have taken an hour took almost a week but finally got the bolt out.

Now I hav another question...

Both the fork arm that holds the coulter and the bushing that had the stuck bolt in it have bushings. But they are tight. If it's supposed to swivel they shouldn't be. Does those parts supposed to have bushings????
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MiCarl
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby MiCarl » Tue Oct 16, 2018 2:14 pm

You might find this helpful:Image

Not all the colters have parts 1 and 17. On mine, the washers (#5) are outside the bracket (#3) and stop bushing (#116)

193 Plow Manual

In hindsight, when I had mine apart I wish I'd put a zerk fitting in the yoke to lube the bushing. Next time I have it apart I might do that.

I think you might have shortened the bushing (#6) when you cut it apart. You might need to build it up or shim it. You need to be able to clamp the bracket tight against it to keep the colter set where you want it. The bushing clamps into the bracket and the yoke pivots on the bushing.
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631

BullDAWG
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Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:09 pm
Zip Code: 39401
Tractors Owned: 1950 Super A
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Circle of Safety: Y

Re: 193 plow question

Postby BullDAWG » Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:32 pm

I seriously thought about adding a zerk fitting to mine. In the last pic u can see where it looks like one should go.
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BullDAWG
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Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:09 pm
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Tractors Owned: 1950 Super A
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby BullDAWG » Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:20 pm

My other question was on part #8 I have what looks like a bronze bushing and in part #6 is a steel bushing. Is that right as diagrams don't show them...
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MiCarl
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Re: 193 plow question

Postby MiCarl » Wed Oct 17, 2018 6:32 am

Not sure what you're talking about...... Only 2 bushings on mine, #6 and #16. The #16 bushing on mine is also steel, but is a replacement so it could have originally been bronze.

Every part on my colter is in the diagram above. Nothing extra. Mine doesn't have parts 1 and 17, and there is no hole in the bracket for bolt #1 to pass through. From the pictures it appears yours does have them.

One side hole in the yoke (#8) is threaded. The bolt (9) is tightened until the cones (#14) have the correct preload and then the nut is tightened against the yoke to keep the bolt from turning. Nothing in the manual about how to adjust it, I just tighten until the blade resists turning and then back it off a hair.
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631

BullDAWG
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 538
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:09 pm
Zip Code: 39401
Tractors Owned: 1950 Super A
1955 John Deere 60 (sold)
1950 Cub (sold)
1951 Cub (sold)
Tufline 5' disc
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: 193 plow question

Postby BullDAWG » Thu Oct 18, 2018 1:58 pm

BullDAWG wrote:My other question was on part #8 I have what looks like a bronze bushing and in part #6 is a steel bushing. Is that right as diagrams don't show them...

What I'm talking about is part #8 and 6 have bushings in them looks almost like paper thin bronze and steel ones inserts.
(Note bronze one looks like its thick on one side but it's from folding over when I cut the bolt, since then I've cut off the excess and made a chamfered end on it)
IMG_20181014_134014.jpg
IMG_20181018_134900.jpg


Top pic shows the bronze and bottom one you can see the steel inserts. My question is "are these original" as with them all the parts including the bolt going through the bushing is tight. It can swivel but isn't free moving, you must exert force to make it swivel. Only a few pounds but still not totally free moving. And especially the bolt as I wallered the bushing when drilling out old bolt so I would think it should be free not snug. I'm thinking it was worn out and someone added them to tighten up sloppy fit from some well used parts.
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"The nine most terrifying words in the English language are: I'm from the GOVERNMENT and I'm here to HELP."
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