Al, my neighbour down the road, turn right go up the road about a mile or as the crow flies from my shop about 1/4 mile... has his Cub over here at my place. Ray and I loaded it with his crane when we went to pick up what remains of Jethro after the parts swap.
Anyways, Al has been having problems with his Cub, from needing a gasket for the Reservoir, to still needing a choke thingy... that aluminum piece the choke rod connects too -- I am having a brain f.rt moment and can't remember what it is called.. to having starting problems.
So, we elected to send his Cub here so I could give him a hand..
1. No start - starter drags even with full charge.. will turn over 2 or 3 times then quits. Starter does not get hot.
2. Rat's nest for wiring.. and I mean a rat's next.. cables running all over the place.. I should have taken pics, but it was too embarassing... thank the Lord, I had nothing to do with that mess..
3. Distributor and 12 volt.. (which means I am really up the crik here as I know nuddink about 12 volt systems.. which is even less than what I know about mags which is not nearly enought to be not-too-dangerous )
4. No choke thingy
5. No Battery or tool box.. so battery just slides around the deck.. gotta do something about that..
6. 1 pancake headlight with lens, 1 pancake headlight with no lens... and no wiring.
7. 1 switch that is a mess
Being the brilliant dolt that I can be at times.. I had the presence of mind to take both my GSS-1411 (which is useless for this), the GSS-1012 - Electrical - which is almost as useless.. because it does not show 12 volt... BUT .. I did print off Bob Melvilles's
Farmall 12 volt Delco 10SI Single Wire Conversion
I figured I had better start eliminating problems so the first thing I decided to do was get rid of the rats nest. No sense trying to diagnose a mess. So, one by one I stripped out each of the rat's nest strands and re-ran either new cabling or rebuilt connections. Each re-built or new connection entailed a spae-nauer crimp on and then each was soldered then liquid electrical tape to seal. I used all 10ga primary wire except for one wire which I left original. It was in good shape - 12ga and had continuity (this is the 12 ga running from the ignition switch to the coil). I repaired the main positive cable from the battery to the starter and re-ran it properly. Made a new Ground cable and grounded to clean bare metal ground (where bat box would go in casting) Fixed the dimmer coil in the switch, and rewired the pull ignition switch, light switch and ammeter according to diag above.
However.. significant differences.. it looks like a 10SI but has no labeling to confirm such, but the 3 terminals are there. Primary from Starter to Bat term on alternator as per above. But.. there was cabling from the other two poles.. pole 1 is positive and goes to the ammeter and pole 2 is negative and goes to a new ground. (Had to do this to get it to turn over).
Have newer elcheapo 12 volt lights (Al asked me to swap him Granny's for his -- ok.. ah duhhhh.. wonder who got the deal huh
).... need to wire in, but the new cabling is run up to the alternator (no not connected to alternator.. just beside it) and awaiting the other bugs to be fixed before finalizing that cabling.
Al bought new NGK's for the Cub so we decided to swap them out. Oooooh boyyyy... the carbon on them plugs... pathetic. Running pretty rich -- black as can be. Will fix that once I get her started and I have to rebuild the carb again after I find that choke lever thingy...
So, put on a portable tank, tried to start... still dragging. Checked plugs for spark.. zip, nada, nuddink, not a blip.....
I guess it is time to what:
1. Check point gap
2. Check coil? (how???)
3. Check what else??? this is where I am going to need guidance guys..
Sorry for my lack of brevity.. but it is the best I can do considering I haven't a clue what I am doing. But the cabling does look nice... all clean, wire tied and ready for loom... connections are all good..